Well for starters, since you're using Xenons, take the one halogen bulb and wires off the grommet
The LED and
top bar wires can all be wired in parallel into the park light circuit. Wire the lows and highs respectively, of course.
Now my take has always been different from everyone else's. I opt to take nothing but switched power (relay) from stock circuits and get constant 12V straight from the battery. Ensures that the electricals get the proper juice they need to work as efficiently (ensures ballast and stock circuit life). I don't even have to fuck with DRLs or bending pins like everyone insists on doing.