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Old December 28th, 2016, 08:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ebay Full Exhaust

I am about 5 mins away from buying this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401184121907
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Old December 29th, 2016, 01:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It's not gonna work without being modified. Also, the metal quality is garbage
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Old December 29th, 2016, 06:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks boo
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Old December 29th, 2016, 08:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It's not gonna work without being modified. Also, the metal quality is garbage
What's wrong with stainless?
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Old December 29th, 2016, 09:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What's wrong with stainless?
It's ebay stainless. Aka "stainless"
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Old December 29th, 2016, 09:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, so based on one quick Google search, the stainless steel used in that exhaust (T304) is food grade, typically used for utensils.

Probably not suitable for the application I suppose.
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Old December 29th, 2016, 09:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok, so based on one quick Google search, the stainless steel used in that exhaust (T304) is food grade, typically used for utensils.

Probably not suitable for the application I suppose.
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Old December 29th, 2016, 09:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey, at least you could eat off it
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Old December 29th, 2016, 10:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't care that it's bought from eBay, it's that I've dealt with the company that makes the product. The product design is wrong. The bank 1 O2 bung is on the wrong side of the header, and is unusable anyway unless you put on a different oil pan.

The metal quality is garbage because it's so damn thin. I have that header, and I've ripped the exhaust hanger out of the collector pipe. Welding was a pain because it was so thin too.

Also about the design, it sits way too low. It's not street friendly.
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Old December 31st, 2016, 04:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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but your forks and spoons dont rust do they? Maybe thats good.
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Old December 31st, 2016, 05:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is the metal on August 30th. It was put on in April or May. My cutlery doesn't get exposed to fire constantly. My header does. I don't imagine it will be looking half that good by next summer. I bought it as a test, and so far it's scoring pretty poorly for quality.

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Old December 31st, 2016, 06:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You're an incredibly patient guy James, I typically lose my cool when things don't line up perfectly, but with that I'd of tossed it in the f'n river.
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Old December 31st, 2016, 07:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Christ what a shit show. I think I'll just shell out the few extra hundred for quality so I don't have to do it again.
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Old December 31st, 2016, 08:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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^the moral of the story
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Old January 1st, 2017, 04:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yep. That's what I want to teach. The DNA Motoring stuff is GARBAGE. It will work with modifications, but is NOT worth it. Get the RRE header instead.

In theory the DNA Motoring one will give more power, but it will scrape on the pavement endlessly, the metal quality sucks, it's thin metal, and dealing with their customer support has been worthless.
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Old January 1st, 2017, 08:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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How do you figure the DNA header will give you more power than the RRE?
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Old January 2nd, 2017, 04:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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4-1 design rather than 4-2-1. It's not a big change, but 4-1 headers make more peak power at higher revs, where as a 4-2-1 gives more mid range power, but less peak
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Old January 2nd, 2017, 10:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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So it's basically longtubes vs. midlength/shorty? Wouldn't you lose a bit at lower RPMs with longtubes?
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Old January 2nd, 2017, 03:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yep, definitely. The 4-1 makes more peak power, but less low down and mid. The 4-2-1 makes less peak, but more low down and mid.

Whichever one is more usable... Now that's a better question. Less power over time for more duration, or more power over time for a shorter duration. It's the average power that's gonna matter, and for that we need some dyno testing and math. If I had an RRE header lying around I could probably manage to use my school's dyno if I said it's for science, hahaha
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Old January 2nd, 2017, 05:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Unless it's a racecar that only sees track use, it's better to go with a midlength imho. You might miss that low end when dailying.
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Old January 3rd, 2017, 02:40 AM   #21 (permalink)
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No disagreement there. My biggest hangup with dailying it is the noise. My biggest joy of it is the flame pop sound though
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Old January 3rd, 2017, 10:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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tl;dr dont buy performance parts off ebay
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Old January 3rd, 2017, 10:07 AM   #23 (permalink)
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tl;dr dont buy performance parts off ebay
Not at all true. You can buy the same garbage from a local store.

The real lesson is read up on the parts you're looking at first, and don't buy a cheap knockoff.
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Old January 3rd, 2017, 10:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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You can buy name brand stuff on eBay, just be weary of all the crap. When it comes to car parts, don't be cheap and cut corners, spend the extra few bucks and get quality.

Or if you're Canadian, allocate half your mod money simply to pay shipping and duty lol
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Old January 4th, 2017, 12:19 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You can buy name brand stuff on eBay, just be weary of all the crap. When it comes to car parts, don't be cheap and cut corners, spend the extra few bucks and get quality.

Or if you're Canadian, allocate half your mod money simply to pay shipping and duty lol
Too true.
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Old January 18th, 2017, 08:15 AM   #26 (permalink)
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BRING THIS SHIT BACK ALIVE!!!!!!!
What if you coat this bitch.
I'm a pool technician and I use flex seal to fix the cracks in the pools and spas that form over time.
It turns into a hard rubber coating. I'm willing to take my chances. They make flex seal in a spray can so give it 2 or 3 coats heavy coats what could go wrong. Yolo
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Old January 18th, 2017, 08:20 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Ok sorry trash that idea I thought it was a good one but the back of the can said not good idea!!
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Old January 18th, 2017, 09:13 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Nah man

do it. buy it.

install it yourself

like you said, yolo
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Old January 18th, 2017, 01:39 PM   #29 (permalink)
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In my own personal experience, you only yolo once. Can't wait for you to post the results.
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Old January 21st, 2017, 02:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Yolo.... Bro the day I bought my car I was there for a lifted 07 Jeep with 80k miles. After talking about money and dealer shit he left to go get the papers comes back and tells me i was 10 minutes two late. Some Dude beat me to it. Since I needed a car ASAP I took the Eclipse and glad I picked it over the jeep.. i fucking love this car. Wish it was a v6, but I also wish I was rich.. can't have everything.
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Old January 21st, 2017, 09:04 PM   #31 (permalink)
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You can't use it. Extremely poor quality. the impression is that the welds made by students.

The thickness of the metal is very thin for normal operation. There are burn holes.

One of the tubes flattened.

Slots for O2 sensors do not correspond to the correct operation.
I think the other parts of the same quality.
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Old January 21st, 2017, 10:16 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Ouch, they got really sloppy.... The one I got from them when they first started to sell them had really nice welds. But the metal is paper thin still, and the O2 sensor sockets were in the wrong place.

The design may have changed too, as none of my pipes are crushed like that. That's bullshit. I thought they sucked before, but now, wow.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 01:08 AM   #33 (permalink)
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It might as well be made of tin foil. The fact that they even sell this is insulting.
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Old January 27th, 2017, 05:45 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I've worked with and for companies like these. The products are made in China, but its funny. Read on.

The parts released in China exclusive market are pretty awesome. China exclusive parts have thicker metal, stronger and prettier welds, and a really nice painted finish. A Chinese company once requested for us to get some sample pictures and test fit a 2015+ Mustang exhaust here in the states and that was a gorgeous piece. The same cannot be said about the exhaust released in the US.

The same factory makes a crappy version to import to the US because domestic consumers refuse to pay a good price for quality parts but will eat up these cheap metal parts. My current company tried multiple times to sell a batch of the good and a batch of bad ones. The bad ones sold fast. The good ones did not sell. Thin walls, poorly controlled welds and fitment issues are common for the cheapo American consumer. Oddly enough, they still sell much better than the good version.

Here is a general pattern I've seen. If its a new product (ie. 2017 car that was just released) and the company just started selling, the first batch's quality is usually much better. This means good welds and good fitment but thinner metals. Fast forward to 2020. That one experienced welder who made beautiful products back in 2017 has been replaced by this rookie who does the job but not well. Poor work combined with cheaper materials demanded by the US market creates a really bad product.

For those who have other cars that they're considering buying these ebay type parts from, think of these ebay types of products as parts you're going to modify yourself. If you're not able or willing to modify them, make sure you understand the ebay store's warranty and return policy if (when) your product goes bad.

Also, Japanese, German, and American T304 stainless steel is not equal to Chinese stainless steel. All are good for your non-salted roads but for you guys living in snowy areas, its not going to be pretty. China is improving its steel recipe but Japanese and German steel will still outlast all others.
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Old January 27th, 2017, 10:02 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Excellent addition, thank you for the insight!!

It makes sense though, unfortunately... People are more willing to screw up their cars with crap parts purely because they're cheaper, than just spending the extra dollar to get quality.
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