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2006-2012 Eclipse (General 4G) General discussion and information about the 2006-2012 (4th Generation) Eclipse.


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Old August 15th, 2015, 05:37 AM   #4001 (permalink)
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Is there a significant difference in braking? I've thought of rep[lacing oem stuff with brembo oem replacement parts. My brakes are ok but after a couple of hard braking attempts from 80+MPH it gets a bit scary.
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Old August 15th, 2015, 07:50 AM   #4002 (permalink)
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I agree, stock brakes are good for daily drivers, but for multiple high-speed braking they will fade fast, especially if you are braking from speeds like 100+ mph.

Brembo brake upgrades are expensive, $5000.

Me, I replaced the rotors, Yellow Stuff Pads, and went with DOT5 brake fluid. Still expensive, but closer to a $1000 for the upgrade.
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Old August 16th, 2015, 02:14 PM   #4003 (permalink)
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Got rear tinted to 20, sides 35, might get front tinted to 40
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Old August 16th, 2015, 03:53 PM   #4004 (permalink)
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Changed the oil for the first time. Changed the brake pads a couple weeks ago since they were squeaky. Now, they still squeak! Not sure what the problem is.
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Old August 16th, 2015, 04:49 PM   #4005 (permalink)
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Changed the oil for the first time. Changed the brake pads a couple weeks ago since they were squeaky. Now, they still squeak! Not sure what the problem is.
You can try using something called Brake Quiet, never used it myself but it probably will fix your problem
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Old August 17th, 2015, 07:20 AM   #4006 (permalink)
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I agree, stock brakes are good for daily drivers, but for multiple high-speed braking they will fade fast, especially if you are braking from speeds like 100+ mph.

Brembo brake upgrades are expensive, $5000.

Me, I replaced the rotors, Yellow Stuff Pads, and went with DOT5 brake fluid. Still expensive, but closer to a $1000 for the upgrade.
Am I the only one who downshifts and uses engine compression to brake? Did a little canyon carving the other week and I barely got on the coward pedal (brake) lol

I am planning SS lines, YS pads, rotors and Gulf 800 fluid in the not too distant future because I intend to track the car on weekends. The dude I befriended at the track said his Hawk pads typically last about 20 session (@ 20 minutes each), so that really ain't too bad. He drives a Brembo equipped Cobalt SS turbo.

Also did a Stage 1 weight reduction - practicality delete

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Old August 18th, 2015, 10:22 AM   #4007 (permalink)
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Am I the only one who downshifts and uses engine compression to brake? Did a little canyon carving the other week and I barely got on the coward pedal (brake) lol

I am planning SS lines, YS pads, rotors and Gulf 800 fluid in the not too distant future because I intend to track the car on weekends. The dude I befriended at the track said his Hawk pads typically last about 20 session (@ 20 minutes each), so that really ain't too bad. He drives a Brembo equipped Cobalt SS turbo.

Also did a Stage 1 weight reduction - practicality delete

I do that alot, especially since I need that dam brake recall done, lost my brakes yesterday again pulling into a parking lot
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Old August 18th, 2015, 11:28 AM   #4008 (permalink)
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Yeah, you really need to get on that. One day your luck/road will run out and something else besides your brakes will have to slow you down.

Be ready to go for the e-brake if your braking system decided to call in sick again.
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Old August 18th, 2015, 01:24 PM   #4009 (permalink)
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Yeah, you really need to get on that. One day your luck/road will run out and something else besides your brakes will have to slow you down.

Be ready to go for the e-brake if your braking system decided to call in sick again.
Oh I'm always ready, when not shifting my hand is always on the e-brake, I've had one finder bender because of it 2 years ago,
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Old August 18th, 2015, 02:49 PM   #4010 (permalink)
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I checked my email to see if my ECU is fixed yet then cried a little.

Also picked up my clay and wax, and said "soon..." (Been rainy out, and it can't leave the driveway)



Also, I too engine brake.
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Old August 19th, 2015, 09:27 PM   #4011 (permalink)
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I really need to get my brakes replaced. I've been thinking about just buying a straight up brembo oem replacement set of rotors and pads. There's another company selling two wheel setups that appear to be this with rebuilt oem calipers (painted red of course) and braided steel lines, and that kit is 1500.

Which set is the best value? How much performance can I expect? I find my present system smells quite sweet and becomes a bit soft after about 3 or 4 80 > 30 transitions. I get about one minute of fun before I have to chill and let things cool down. I want to be able to scare passengers...
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Old August 20th, 2015, 01:04 PM   #4012 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Is there a significant difference in braking? I've thought of rep[lacing oem stuff with brembo oem replacement parts. My brakes are ok but after a couple of hard braking attempts from 80+MPH it gets a bit scary.
My Brembo Upgrade only cost me about $3500. I bought used calipers, had them rebuilt and powdercoated, upgraded to SS lines, Ceramic compound pads, DOT 5 Superblue fluid. only issue is what i have discussed above, the seals. if you do decided to upgrade to brembos and you are not purchasing NEW calipers , learn from my mistake and have the seals changed immediately. its expensive but honestly its worth not getting killed because of faulty brakes. in all for replacing all of the seals, granted i could only afford to replace one at the time, then the rest started failing, i have only spend about $700 on new seals, system bleeds and labor for genuine Brembo parts ordered through Mitsubishi. no i am not saying that casually, $700 is a chunk of change but it will have to be done at some point regardless of when you upgrade using used or new calipers.

i really love the braking power of my brembos. NO i do not go super speed all over town but i step on it on the highways and interstate around here so yes its fun and worth the upgrade.
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Old August 20th, 2015, 02:03 PM   #4013 (permalink)
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Got my injen exhaust installed =) loving the sound
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Old August 24th, 2015, 12:06 AM   #4014 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Oh I'm always ready, when not shifting my hand is always on the e-brake, I've had one finder bender because of it 2 years ago,
No crap! I tapped into a wall while parking , my brakes went completely soft. Even after all new brakes , new master cylinder and bleed the break lines. It fixed it for about a week then , crap all over again.
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Old August 24th, 2015, 12:08 AM   #4015 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I really need to get my brakes replaced. I've been thinking about just buying a straight up brembo oem replacement set of rotors and pads. There's another company selling two wheel setups that appear to be this with rebuilt oem calipers (painted red of course) and braided steel lines, and that kit is 1500.

Which set is the best value? How much performance can I expect? I find my present system smells quite sweet and becomes a bit soft after about 3 or 4 80 > 30 transitions. I get about one minute of fun before I have to chill and let things cool down. I want to be able to scare passengers...
Lol , you can scare passengers by not having your brakes work too.
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Old August 24th, 2015, 04:20 PM   #4016 (permalink)
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No crap! I tapped into a wall while parking , my brakes went completely soft. Even after all new brakes , new master cylinder and bleed the break lines. It fixed it for about a week then , crap all over again.
Best way I have found is when it happens release the brake pedal and press it again, normally works...., then temporary fix after stopped is to pump the brake pedal
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Old August 25th, 2015, 01:23 AM   #4017 (permalink)
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i have had the same issue with squishy pedal, talked to Mitsubishi about it and there is what is called a "check" valve for out braking system that can fail, its an easily replaced part and not expensive to replace either. going to have mine replaced here soon.
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Old August 29th, 2015, 01:05 PM   #4018 (permalink)
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Installed RRE UnderDrivePulley and Injen Cold Air Intake, thinking of doing some engine dress up. Ordered Gloss black headlights from autocity with red demoneyes and a LaminX coat, waiting for it to be made.
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Old August 29th, 2015, 04:15 PM   #4019 (permalink)
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If I had a 2.4 the first thing I'd do is the RRE UDP. Too bad they don't have something similar for the V6.
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Old August 29th, 2015, 04:28 PM   #4020 (permalink)
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If I had a 2.4 the first thing I'd do is the RRE UDP. Too bad they don't have something similar for the V6.
The UDP is totally worth it, noticed a difference after i installed it, was impressed.
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Old August 29th, 2015, 06:47 PM   #4021 (permalink)
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If I had a 2.4 the first thing I'd do is the RRE UDP. Too bad they don't have something similar for the V6.
RRE tried and tried to make a UDP for our 3.8L, they just couldn't get it to work, so they dropped the project.
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Old September 4th, 2015, 03:08 PM   #4022 (permalink)
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Best way I have found is when it happens release the brake pedal and press it again, normally works...., then temporary fix after stopped is to pump the brake pedal
I do just that now! After I turn my car on while still in park I pump my breaks 2 or 3 times , they seem to work just fine after that.

also I got rid of my back seat, spare tire and all the other fixings are out . Trunk mat and all.
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Old September 4th, 2015, 03:39 PM   #4023 (permalink)
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Old September 5th, 2015, 05:15 AM   #4024 (permalink)
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Just changed the transmission fluid! Surprisingly, the shifting is noticeably smoother.
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Old September 6th, 2015, 04:48 AM   #4025 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Just changed the transmission fluid! Surprisingly, the shifting is noticeably smoother.
Wouldn't be surprised. It's the little things we over look like changing fluids and oils that can make, or brake our cars. Many of our fluids/oils has a two-year, or 30,000 mile change schedule. Whether we like it or not, once oil is put into use it starts to break down. Once the usable service life is up parts start to wear and break down, especially in heavy use items like the engine, transmission, coolant, brakes, and even our power steering. Coolant is every 5 years.
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Old September 6th, 2015, 05:08 AM   #4026 (permalink)
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Fun, fun, and more fun!!! Total wash and wax, cleaned CAI filter, removed all wheels for a super clean and wash as well as cleaning the wheel wells, inspected both front and rear suspension and drive line parts, paint touch-up on brake calipers, and last but not least, repaired and reinstalled my lower grill insert after taking out 6 sparrows.

For those of you who still don't have a lower grill insert... GET ONE!! I know I'm lazy and should have took pictures of the grill; however, there is no doubt in my mind it saved my AC condenser ($600)!! $45 well spent. Cost to repair the grill was like $22, looks good as new. Bent grill flat again, had to replace the door edge protector that goes around the grill, $15, and new 3M two-sided tape $7. The hardest part was removing all the old 3M tape... FUCK!! ((Goo-B-Gone & Paint Thiner & 10 Gallons of Elbow Grease))
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Old September 6th, 2015, 06:39 PM   #4027 (permalink)
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Just changed the transmission fluid! Surprisingly, the shifting is noticeably smoother.
Auto or Manual Trans?
If auto did you flush or just drained and refilled it? How much came out if you just drain the trans?
Thanks for the Help.
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Old September 6th, 2015, 06:49 PM   #4028 (permalink)
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GROUP 23A AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...004100-23A.pdf
TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE PAGE 23A-381

GROUP 22A MANUAL TRANSAXLE
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...003700-22A.pdf
TRANSMISSION OIL REPLACEMENT PAGE 22A-10
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Old September 6th, 2015, 11:46 PM   #4029 (permalink)
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Auto or Manual Trans?
If auto did you flush or just drained and refilled it? How much came out if you just drain the trans?
Thanks for the Help.
Yo , I did this not too long ago maybe a year. My tranny fluid was way past due. The fluid is cheap enough to change out I think it was $7 a bottle. So I changed the tranny fluid then about a month later did it again, as the stuff in there still had left over crap from the original fluid. Just a suggestion!
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Old September 7th, 2015, 09:33 PM   #4030 (permalink)
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Yo , I did this not too long ago maybe a year. My tranny fluid was way past due. The fluid is cheap enough to change out I think it was $7 a bottle. So I changed the tranny fluid then about a month later did it again, as the stuff in there still had left over crap from the original fluid. Just a suggestion!
Considering all the neat little nook and crannies that dirt and sludge can hide inside this transmission, this is not a bad idea. Max fluid exchange is around $65, compared to $3000 to $6000 for a transmission.

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Old September 8th, 2015, 07:55 AM   #4031 (permalink)
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Just changed my engine oil and filter, car rides a lot smoother now
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Old September 8th, 2015, 08:53 AM   #4032 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtizzle View Post
Yo , I did this not too long ago maybe a year. My tranny fluid was way past due. The fluid is cheap enough to change out I think it was $7 a bottle. So I changed the tranny fluid then about a month later did it again, as the stuff in there still had left over crap from the original fluid. Just a suggestion!
Great thanks for your help and info.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 08:53 PM   #4033 (permalink)
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Put in the ECU, got the rust off my rotors, broke free of the driveway

Thanks to Mike@Tactrix!
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Old September 8th, 2015, 10:59 PM   #4034 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DRC69 View Post
Auto or Manual Trans?
If auto did you flush or just drained and refilled it? How much came out if you just drain the trans?
Thanks for the Help.
Sorry I am late. I actually took it to my mechanic and paid the $100. It is an automatic transmission. I took it in Friday and got it back the same day. Then on Saturday I noticed some fluid under my car (Transmission fluid). I figured they maybe didn't tighten something correctly. :/ Didn't drive it for the weekend, took it back today and they repaired the leak at no charge. He said something about a gasket that had warn out? Not sure which gasket he was talking about pertaining to the ATF. (Can someone clarify?) However, looking at the fluid, it looks pretty dirty still :/ I do trust my mechanic (been a family mechanic for years) and obviously he did the work if the fluid was leaking afterwards. (humans make mistakes!) Just wondering why the fluid is still dirty?

Last edited by Silence_; September 8th, 2015 at 11:03 PM.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 11:32 AM   #4035 (permalink)
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installed new weather stripping on driver and passenger sides. was a simple install after getting rid of all the old adhesive residue.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 11:51 AM   #4036 (permalink)
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^The black strips on the top of the roof? One of mine is peeling up a bit...
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Old September 9th, 2015, 09:03 PM   #4037 (permalink)
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^mine had gotten to the point of slinging back when i got up to speed on the interstate. paid $70 for 2 new strips and put them on myself. took about 30 min of prepwork to get all of the old glue and rubber off, then i prepped with adhesion promoter (also from Mitsubishi).

now i am trying to find new headlights, i love my color change ones but they are of course aftermarket, and none of that cheap stuff lasts forever. i really want the headlights from the 2011+ eclipses, but just to order the housings, bulbs, ballasts and the harness its about $1k from Mitsubishi for brand new parts
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Old September 9th, 2015, 09:50 PM   #4038 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovisman View Post
GROUP 23A AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...004100-23A.pdf
TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE PAGE 23A-381

GROUP 22A MANUAL TRANSAXLE
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...003700-22A.pdf
TRANSMISSION OIL REPLACEMENT PAGE 22A-10
Silence, there are two ways of doing the fluid exchange, the right way and the wrong way. I've seen many doing it the wrong way and just draining the fluid and then just replacing the fluid they just drain out, like an oil change. This does not get the fluid out of the converter that holds I think 4 quarts of fluid, dirty fluid!!

If the above instruction are followed correctly in the Eclipse Factory Service Manual you will drain the converter as well, and depending if you have a GS, or GT will have to add 8 to 9 quarts of fluid.

And just a friendly reminder for all members, both manual and auto trans fluid changes should be done every 30,000 miles.
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Old September 10th, 2015, 08:05 AM   #4039 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EclipseMua507 View Post
^mine had gotten to the point of slinging back when i got up to speed on the interstate. paid $70 for 2 new strips and put them on myself. took about 30 min of prepwork to get all of the old glue and rubber off, then i prepped with adhesion promoter (also from Mitsubishi).

now i am trying to find new headlights, i love my color change ones but they are of course aftermarket, and none of that cheap stuff lasts forever. i really want the headlights from the 2011+ eclipses, but just to order the housings, bulbs, ballasts and the harness its about $1k from Mitsubishi for brand new parts
Gotcha. I'll probably have to do this sooner than later...

I feel you on the OEM HIDs too. I'd love to have those projectors
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Old September 10th, 2015, 08:33 PM   #4040 (permalink)
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Low quality image, high quality shine! Finally clayed it, very happy with the results. But next time it will be better

Couldn't use a camera flash because the reflection would make everything so bright the camera would cancel out all the other image
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