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Old October 19th, 2014, 10:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help me prioritize!

So I've got a multitude of issues I need to fix as well as things I just want in general.

Things I need to fix:
P0421 (probably my cat is all messed up)
P0300 (not sure the cause of this yet, just popped up this weekend)
P0660 (I think it's from my Injen CAI not having that other thing connected)
Paint on hood started peeling off. Now I have 3 giant spots that are just black primer. My car is UV Blue.
Dash vinyl is peeling hardcore on the passenger side.
New tires. Mine are wearing and I should get something new for winter.
I should probably get new brakes and rotors.
Things I want:
Coilovers
Fangs
06 rear aero wake modifier or whatever it's called
New Wheels, probably 18s.
Mod-GT hood

Now, rationally speaking, I feel that I should probably get the issues that are throwing the codes fixed, then get new tires, then get my hood repainted. However, not all of us are entirely rational people.

My plans right now in order:
  1. New tires. Looking at Eagle LS2 235/45/18 right now.
  2. Coilovers
  3. fix codes (or at least just the P0330)
  4. paint hood/mod-gt hood
  5. fangs/aero rear
  6. new wheels
  7. new brakes and rotors
  8. fix P0421
  9. dash vinyl can go kill itself.

What do you guys think? Are the codes and paint important enough to bump them up? Tires are probably non-negotiable since it's more of a safety thing at that point.

Last edited by ModgePodge; October 19th, 2014 at 10:27 PM.
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Old October 20th, 2014, 08:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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P0660 Mitsubishi - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Open Bank 1

Possible causes

- Faulty Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV)
- Intake Manifold Tuning Valve harness is open or shorted
- Intake Manifold Tuning Valve circuit poor electrical connection

What does this mean?

When is the code detected?

The Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected an improper signal from the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV)

Possible symptoms

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

P0660 Mitsubishi Description

The Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV) system is monitored for failure during continuous, key ON engine OFF or key ON engine running self-test. The test fails when the signal on the monitor pin is more or less than an the expected calibrated range


P0300 Mitsubishi - Cylinder Misfire Detected Random Cylinders

Possible causes

- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure

 What does this mean?

Tech notes

The P0300 code means that a cylinder(s) is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks, intake gaskets are common caused of multi-cylinder misfiring. If no leak are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs. If the problem persist more tests needs to be done to diagnose problem, see "Possible Causes"

 What does this mean?

When is the code detected?

The control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition

Possible symptoms

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/loss of power
- Hard start
- Engine hesitation

P0300 Mitsubishi Description


When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal to vary, the Engine Control Module (ECM) can determine that a misfire is occurring.


P0421 Mitsubishi - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold- Cylinders 1-3

Possible causes

- Warm Up Three Way Catalytic converter deterioration or malfunction
- Exhaust system leaks
- Loose front or rear HO2Ss
- Faulty front heater O2 sensor
- O2 sensors harness is open or shorted
- O2 sensors poor electrical connection

 What does this mean?

Tech notes

As the code description implies the P0421 code means that the vehicle's control module has detected that the three-way catalytic converter is not working properly (is not as efficient as the factory is expecting). Replacing the oxygen (O2) sensors may sometimes fix the code, but in most cases the catalytic convert needs to be replaced to fix the problem. If the P0421 code is combined with other codes, try fixing the other codes first.

There is a factory service recall for the following Mitsubishi Models:

2002 Mitsubishi Lancer
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer
2005 Mitsubishi Lancer
2002−2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Factory Service Recall OBDII Code P0421

 What does this mean?

When is the code detected?

The P0421 code is set when PCM has determined that the warm up catalyst efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating condition. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)

Possible symptoms

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

P0421 Mitsubishi Description


The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors the switching frequency ratio of heated oxygen sensors 1 (front O2 sensor) and heated oxygen sensors 2 (rear O2 sensor).

A three way catalyst converter (Manifold) with high oxygen storage capacity will indicate a low switching frequency of heated oxygen sensor 2. As oxygen storage capacity decreases, the heated oxygen sensor 2 switching frequency will increase.

When the frequency ratio of heated oxygen sensors 1 and 2 approaches a specified limit value, the three way catalyst malfunction is diagnosed.

Personally... I think your hood can wait Can't drive your car if the engine breaks down in the Winter!!
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Old October 20th, 2014, 08:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Fix codes first. A poorly running engine costs you fuel and potentially engine life.

If tires are bad replace.

If breaks are bad replace.

The rest is cosmetic, fix the car and make it safe first. Or it could become a parts car
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Old October 20th, 2014, 08:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. My mechanic said that the brakes seem fine and I shouldn't have to worry about them for a bit. Though he suggested that if I were to upgrade, get performance parts since I drive pretty much strictly highway.

As for the P0300, I don't think it's an intake leak since ive had my cai on for about a month now, but I'll check it out this weekend. And then I'll swap spark plugs I guess...

Regarding spark plugs, which ones am I supposed to use? NGK Iridium IX Resistor Spark Plugs LZFR6AI 3656 or NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs IFR6B K 4867? A bunch of posts say the IX resistor spark ones, but auto parts sites keep saying it's incompatible. My car is a gt if it matters.
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Old October 22nd, 2014, 06:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quick update: Yesterday my fuel gauge pointed at just above the Empty line, so I filled up. I thought my fuel efficiency went down because it was at E with only 300 miles when I usually can go to around 380, but turns out that wasn't the case. At the pump, I was only able to fill up 12.5 gallons before it stopped. Could my codes be fuel related? Also, the SES light turned off, if that helps.
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Old October 22nd, 2014, 08:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well it sounds like you did little to no research on the codes even though it is posted above.

So - Having a misfire in your engine WILL not only affect MPG but could damage your engine.

The 421 most likly occured during the misfire but could be a seperate issue.

The Serial communication link failure could have caused both. However I would not trust that as a mis fire is not good.

Your mechanic should have known this and either checked it or told you to have a closer look done.

As your light reset I may have been a one time hick-up. Then you got lucky. If it happens again GET IT FIXED.

And consider a new mechanic.
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Old October 22nd, 2014, 09:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When you put on your CAI did you install a rubber cap where you pulled the rubber hose from?? This would cause a massive air leak in the intake manifold and cause mis-fire problems.

If you do remove the intake manifold or throttle body, make sure you reinstall the parts correctly, especially the gaskets!!! And whatever you do... use a torque wrench. Over-tightning or under-tightning will cause air-leaks, over-tightnig WILL strip the holes for the bolts... now you have a big problem!!

A torque wrench only cost $20 to $30 bucks, and if you are into fixing your own car or modding you will use the torque wrench many times over.

I've seen to many members strip the holes with their bolts because they failed to use a torque wrench causing many hours of work to repair the internal threads.

Eclipse Service Manual: http://tearstone.com/2006-eclipse-fa...ervice-manual/
Very detailed information in these books. You can even fix your problems right the first time, LOL!!
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Last edited by Clovisman; October 22nd, 2014 at 09:52 AM.
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Old October 22nd, 2014, 01:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just drilled and tapped 12 holes in an aluminum transmission because someone didn't use a torque wrench.
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Old October 23rd, 2014, 07:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Just to clarify, my mechanic hasn't looked at my codes. Also, I did read the above post and do my own research, I just don't understand/am having a hard time putting things together, because I have work related things that I am worrying about as well.

The 421 code came on well before the 330, so the 330 might be due to the 421, but it shouldn't be the other way around.

Another thing to clarify is that my mpg hasn't decreased. The fuel gauge reading is just wrong. It'll read near empty (but light doesn't come on) but I can only fill 12.5 gallons in to the tank.

As for the rubber cap, I can't remember, nor do I really know what you're talking about. I'll take a look later when I get home, but a picture point specifically to the cap to compare to would be helpful.

Thank you guys for all of your help so far!
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Old October 24th, 2014, 09:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Why's this even a question? Fix the things that are hurting your engine and are dangerous to you.

Throwing codes can potentially ruin your engine, so fix those, if you need brakes, get those next, then get tires so you're not sliding all over the place in a few months.

Don't worry about cosmetic when your car is potentially ruining it's engine performance and risking your life.
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Old October 24th, 2014, 09:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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^^^^ that ^^^^

Done with this thread!
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Old October 24th, 2014, 04:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't expect you to have read, but I am working on getting things fixed. It's just a matter of what exactly the issues are as I'd like to have an idea of what to target. Now, I understand that there's only so much the community can do without fiddling around with my car, but any information is of value.
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Old October 25th, 2014, 04:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModgePodge View Post
Just to clarify, my mechanic hasn't looked at my codes. Also, I did read the above post and do my own research, I just don't understand/am having a hard time putting things together, because I have work related things that I am worrying about as well.

The 421 code came on well before the 330, so the 330 might be due to the 421, but it shouldn't be the other way around.

Another thing to clarify is that my mpg hasn't decreased. The fuel gauge reading is just wrong. It'll read near empty (but light doesn't come on) but I can only fill 12.5 gallons in to the tank.

As for the rubber cap, I can't remember, nor do I really know what you're talking about. I'll take a look later when I get home, but a picture point specifically to the cap to compare to would be helpful.

Thank you guys for all of your help so far!
You have to understand, there is some guesstamating here, you do have multiple codes. And I do understand you have more then one thing to do in your life and sometimes it takes time to get around to things, especially when it comes to money.

Now if you do have a clugged pre-cat, then if unchecked/repaired things can/will get worse. The cat can over-heat and cause a fire. If you run your car for about 30 minutes, pull you car in your drive and open the hood. Hover your hand above your pre-cats, if one is hoter then the other, things that make you go Hmm!!

When your pre-cat is clugged and depending how clugged, it will cause back-pressure. Excessive back-pressure will not only cause misfires because the the exhaust is not leaving the cumbustion chamber, but will burn your valves and//or valve seats.

All gas tanks have a reserve, normally about 2 gallons, hence if your low fuel light had not come on, then you probably had 3 to 3 1/2 gallons of gas left in you tank, so 12.5 gallons would be a normal fill-up.

As for the rubber cap, the tube that needs to be covered is on the right side of the intake manifold, about 3" to 4" forward of the throttle body. Did instructions come with your CAI? My Injen CAI came with instuctions and all parts require to install the CAI. Don't worry... we have had many members who failed to incert this cap and caused engine problems and several codes to boot.
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Last edited by Clovisman; October 25th, 2014 at 04:40 AM.
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Old October 25th, 2014, 09:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks Clovisman.

I'll check out the precats later today. Just gotta figure out where it is.

As for the clogged cats, do I need to replace or can I unclog them somehow?

I know the gas tank light comes on when it hits the reserve, but what I was trying to say was that for the last fill, there was a huge discrepancy between the fuel gauge and how much I could actually fill up compared to how it has been since I've gotten the car.

When I put in my cai, I followed the instructions they gave, but I'll look them over again.

Thank you!
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Old October 27th, 2014, 05:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Your pre-cats are part of your exhaust manifolds, they have a heat-shield that covers them, you will also see what looks like a spark-plug going into it, but it is one of two banks of O2 sensors that monitor the exhaust gases. Each pre-cat is about $750.. each 02 sensor are about $35 each. Some people just gut their pre-cats, while others install RRE short tube headers that coast around $600 for both down pipes. Lots of info on this mod, just do a search on headers.
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Old October 28th, 2014, 08:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've been contemplating headers for a while now, but I won't pass emissions where I live, so technically it's not an option for me, sadly. I've got an appointment with the dealer to have them check out my p0421 code though. Thanks a bunch!
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