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Old January 27th, 2015, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Reliability issues in the cold

My car is finally almost to 60k miles. I've been trying to shop around on places to do my 60k maintenance, but I'm not entirely sure that my issues will be fixed with this maintenance.

At about 50k miles, my OEM battery died and I ended up replacing it and my plugs. It seems like my car hasn't started the same way since I've done this. I've had my car fail to start a couple of times during cold weather (10-15F). When its warm in my garage, it still has to turn over 5-6 times before it will finally start.

I know the Eclipse is also very noisy when cold. My car will idle at 2-3k during the cold and make a high pitched whining noise. The noise usually goes away after it has had a chance to warm up. I'm also not throwing any codes.

I've taken pretty good care of her with oil changes, filters, etc. My mods are in my signature. Is there anything I can do to fix these issues?
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Last edited by Sikis; January 27th, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 04:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm no expert but it is a possibility that your throttle body could be sticky, not being able to open would cause it to turn over a lot before it dislodges and sticks open causing a high idle... Could be a starting point to check, but it's just a guess.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 04:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd personally get rid of the Pulstar plugs as well, especially since it hasn't been the same after you changed them. I know they apparently work for some, but I had starting issues as well, and I didn't notice any gains. I also had one bad right out of the box, one failed shortly after installing, and one failed about 100 miles later. Changed to laser iridiums since I knew they worked. Haven't had a problem since.

Did you also do the relearning procedure after you hooked up the new battery?
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i have more liters in my coke bottle than your engine puts out.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 04:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'll try new plugs and cleaning out my TB. I've had pulsars since I got this car (brand new), but these are new.

I didn't do a relearn procedure. I didn't know such a thing existed. If this was 10k miles ago, is it still worth doing?
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Old January 27th, 2015, 04:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Did you remember to gap them? Be careful with cleaning the throttle body. I've heard you can damage it if not done right. I'd wait for someone to chime in who knows how to do it.


Wouldn't hurt. Disconnect the battery and do the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovisman View Post
If at any time while working on your car, and you intend to be disconnecting any electrical connections, or working around the electrical system/wiring were you might damage, cut through, drill through the wiring; you should disconnect your battery. There are several computers located in different areas of the car; like your home computer and circuitry, you can harm/damage your car's computer/s with a stray voltage strike. Be safe, disconnect $$.

Resetting/Relearning process for the ECU/PCM & Throttle Position Sensor after maintenance. Before starting any maintenance:

Turn all accessories off; Headlights, AC/Heater, Radio, etc. Make sure windows are rolled up and doors are closed before disconnecting the battery.

Disconnect the Negative battery terminal, then the Positive battery terminal. You can dissipate any stray voltage by applying the brakes, or by touching the Negative and Positive leads together after they have been removed/disconnected from the battery. If the battery is disconnected for a long period of time this should not be necessary.

Do your required maintenance, and after the maintenance is completed, do the following to reset/relearn the ECU/PCM and reset the Throttle Position Sensor to its neutral position.

Reconnect your battery terminals. First install the Positive lead, then your Negative lead.

Turn your ignition key to the “ON” position but do not start your car. You will hear some clicking under the hood, this is your Throttle Position Sensors relearning its neutral position. You may also have some flashing dash lights. Wait about two-minutes, then turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position for ten-seconds.

Turn your ignition key to start the engine; let the engine idle for at least ten-minutes. Your engine might idle rough at first, but it will smooth out as the ECM/PCM learns its new parameters. Turn the engine “OFF” for ten-seconds.

Restart the engine and take the car for a test drive for about 20 minutes. Normal driving, no hard accelerations or stops, do not WOT the engine (Wide Open Throttle). After your driving cycle, turn your engine “OFF”. Note: during this first drive cycle, take it easy on the engine for at least the first 30 miles.

From this point your engine should have learned its new parameters and should be ready for your everyday type of driving. If you get a SES Light or any other Lights, have someone check your OBDII for any set or pending codes, post those codes for further trouble-shooting.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwright View Post
i have more liters in my coke bottle than your engine puts out.

Last edited by ihaz4gGT; January 27th, 2015 at 04:54 PM.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 05:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Found this in the FSM:

Quote:
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE TSB Revision
MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTION (MFI) <2.4L ENGINE> 13A-1197
THROTTLE BODY (THROTTLE VALVE AREA) CLEANING
M1131001000934

WARNING
If the throttle valve is operated in service, a finger
might be injured as
the result of being caught by the
throttle valve. Make sure th
at the ignition switch is
surely in "LOCK" (OFF) posit
ion before the service in
order that the throttle
valve cannot be operated.
1. Remove the throttle body.
CAUTION

Do not spray the cleaning solvent directly to the throttle
valve.

Make sure the cleaning solvent does not enter the
motor and the sensor through the shaft.
2. Spray cleaning solvent on a clean cloth.
3. Wipe off the dirt around the throttle valve with the cloth
sprayed with cleaning solvent.
4. Attach the air intake hose.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwright View Post
i have more liters in my coke bottle than your engine puts out.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 05:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I didn't gap the plugs because I read that they didn't need gapped and they would be damaged if attempted. I never gapped my first set either.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 05:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ah, well, I'd (personally) still check them gently with a wire-type gauge, return/replace if not in spec.

I also found these:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovisman View Post
No problem bringing up an old thread, at least we know your searching before posting!!

Okay, the buzzing sound you are hearing when you first turn your ingnition "ON" is normal. Your idle prblem may be caused by a gasket on your throttle body being installed incorrectly. This s a very common occurance on the 2006 & 2007 models and came from the factory this way. I'll have to hunt the sevice manual to find the correct postion.

Also, have you tried cleaning your throttle body lately?? There is a special cleaning procedure for our throttle body... I.E. Do Not use a spray cleaner on the throttle body. If spray cleaner gets into any of the sensors, you get to buy a new throttle body. The throttle body needs to come off the manifold and be cleanedd by hand. A rag with cleaning fluid and a small acid bush can be used but avoid getting any fluids into the sensors, especially where the throttle plate shafts are concerned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovisman View Post
Okay, the gasket between the throttle body and intake manifold, the gasket itself has a
tab on it, the tab should be on-top and facing toward the rear, or towards the fire wall.

Hope this helps...

If not, well some further T-shooting will be required.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovisman View Post
If you are messing with the electronics package on the TB without the assistance of Mitsu techs, you will ruin the TB, or at least put in an INOP state until a Mitsu tech can re-calibrate it. The word, that I spread on this one is, "Do NOT turn so much as a single screw on that resin cover". There are only 4 fasteners you worry about on the TB, and that's the 4 bolts that hold it to the manifold. Feel free to turn the throttle with your finger when you are cleaning it, but otherwise treat the TB like a monolithic piece that doesn't adjust or disassemble.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwright View Post
i have more liters in my coke bottle than your engine puts out.
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Old January 27th, 2015, 05:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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could be fuel delivery...try turning the key to the on position, wait 10-15 seconds, then start...could be taking the fuel system a bit longer to prime...
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Old January 27th, 2015, 05:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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High idle when cold is easily misinterpreted as having an issue when cold. However, some/most cars will idle higher when started to get its fluids moving. My Camaro (2011) did the same thing as did my Cobalt SS (2006). Don't be alarmed by the 2k ish RPM when cold idling as it usually only lasts 2-3 mins depending on temps
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Old January 28th, 2015, 02:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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mine also idles high when cold. I also have that high pitch whine for the first second or two if driving, it lasts longer in the cold, maybe 10 seconds. It seems to be throttle related and goes away as soon as the car starts getting warmed up.


Colder air is more dense and thus there is more Oxygen per volume going in your engine at Idle opening, the car has to add more fuel to match that extra oxygen and so, there is a higher idle. Its no different that stepping on the gas really.

anyone else thing the 2.4L sounds like a sewing machine at idle? Mine does and Ive heard others sound the same way, very clanky, I dont like it.
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Old January 28th, 2015, 06:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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mine also idles high when cold. I also have that high pitch whine for the first second or two if driving, it lasts longer in the cold, maybe 10 seconds. It seems to be throttle related and goes away as soon as the car starts getting warmed up.


Colder air is more dense and thus there is more Oxygen per volume going in your engine at Idle opening, the car has to add more fuel to match that extra oxygen and so, there is a higher idle. Its no different that stepping on the gas really.

anyone else thing the 2.4L sounds like a sewing machine at idle? Mine does and Ive heard others sound the same way, very clanky, I dont like it.
The whine is related to your belts, not Throttle. Happens on 90% of all vehicle makes and models from time to time. Used to get alot of these complaints at the dealership I used to work at.
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Old January 28th, 2015, 06:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The whining doesn't bother me too much. The main thing is that for the first time ever with my 4g, I've been unable to start it in the cold.

My current course of action is new plugs, TB cleaning, and TB relearn. If none of that helps, I'm going to have my new battery swapped out.
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Old January 28th, 2015, 07:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sad thing is 2/3 of the issues people with 4G's are having with whining and cold starts would have been remedied had Mitsubishi just installed block heaters on the thing.
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Old January 28th, 2015, 10:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Throw in NGK LZFR6AI laser iridium plugs and see what she says and don't worry about changing them for a long time. I'm almost at 104k on the original OEM plugs in my GT without a hiccup. Even in cold starts at -15 F. When you take out the pulstars, examine each plug carefully that they all look like they've been sparking the same.

As for block heaters, I got one on order for my GT that is going to be installed when I do a coolant change.
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Old January 29th, 2015, 01:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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do block heaters kill your battery or do they have their own battery
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Old January 29th, 2015, 02:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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you plug them into an AC outlet with an extension cord...some places in the north have power poles (like at a camp ground) outside of buildings etc. so you can plug the car in while you're at work or whatever...you can even get interior heaters that run off the same power source...
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Old January 30th, 2015, 12:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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the eclipse AC outlet will not provide power with the car off tho....
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Old January 30th, 2015, 05:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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no no, lol, you plug it into your house...or like any outlet that's on the power grid...
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Old January 31st, 2015, 02:29 AM   #20 (permalink)
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XD ahah i see. I wish so bad I had a garage.
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Old January 31st, 2015, 08:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The block heater in your car is basically a toaster that warms up the block of your engine by USING your household voltage. It's not an inverter trying to send power from the car to the house... It doesn't tie in to the cars electrical system in any way. The 120v circuit is strictly ran to the block heater and doesn't go to the ECU or anything. We stick the male connector of the cord outside the front hood area for convenience to plug in the extention cord

Most of use install a timer on our extension cord and set it up to only turn on the heater an hour or two before we go to use the car. The v6 block heater is 600w, so it's a decent amount of power that doesn't need to be on the entire night... Remembering to unplug the cord before driving off is also a good idea
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