Car wont start. No compression after oil change! - Club4G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums - 2006-2012 Eclipse Authority
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2006-2012 Eclipse (General 4G) General discussion and information about the 2006-2012 (4th Generation) Eclipse.


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Old January 17th, 2016, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Car wont start. No compression after oil change!

Got a real head scratcher here. I did an oil change on the '08 eclipse. Let it drain for several hours. Put the k&n hp1010 oil filter on, and used mobil 1 5w-20 synthetic. Started the car once to cycle oil through the engine for a minute before doing a final check on oil level. Also pre-filled oil filter with oil before installing it.

Now to this morning when I go to take the car officially out of the garage. I start it up, it runs for about 2 seconds and shuts off and won't start. Sounds like crap when trying to crank. Sounds exactly like a car with a broken timing belt.
I throw my breaker bar on the end of the crankshaft and turn the engine by hand and I notice I have little to zero compression with how I can freely spin this thing all around. I take the covers off. My still freshly installed timing belt kit (which was an aisin kit for over $400) all looks good and all timing marks are bang on where I left them.
Crank pulley at 0 degrees lines up perfect with the two top marks on the top cams. So the belt didn't even so much as jump a tooth. And I remember just how hard this bad boy is to turn the crank over with a breaker boy when compression is normal, it's tough.

Only possible scenario I can come up with is that I installed a faulty K&N filter that did not allow oil to pump through to my heads and that the cams are somehow not letting the lifters close properly and it is somehow keeping the valves open?

I literally have not ran this car more then 1 minute with the new filter and have no compression. I haven't actually gotten to taking the valve covers off to do a real compression reading. To say I'm a little discouraged is a bit of an understatement.

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; January 17th, 2016 at 01:40 PM.
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Old January 18th, 2016, 02:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Problem seems to be solved. The issue is that K&N sells expensive oil filters and pretends they're a high quality product when they're really complete garbage that nobody should ever put on their vehicle. Come to think of it, I wouldn't even install a K&N air filter, or oil filter on my bicycle after this experience...

Not at all entirely sure if what took place with valves being left open or closed and whatnot, but when I took the K&N oil filter off and then installed a good, high quality mobil-1 110 oil filter. Things started looking better already. I went in the car and started cranking it; within a few seconds it started to sputter to life! It then took a few more seconds, as she seemed to pressurize the oil properly to the right areas, and then purr'd like a kitten the way she always had.

In the end, if you want to have major problems, and possibly destroy your engine, use a K&N oil filter. If you want your car to pump oil correctly and be happy, use anything but K&N.

Hope this helps someone else out before they start tearing their hair, intake manifold, timing belt covers, and valve covers off for no reason.

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; January 18th, 2016 at 02:35 PM.
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Old January 19th, 2016, 08:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing Jason, for sure we'll keep it in mind for the next oil change...
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Old January 21st, 2016, 12:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That is honestly the strangest thing I have ever heard. I have never heard of a car having no compression due to an oil filter. Hell, there are people out there with cars that run on very low to no oil (not saying it's a good thing), but the motor still runs with compression. Interesting...

I too am running a K&N oil filter, and honestly I can't wait till my next oil change. These filters are junk. My motor runs great. But every morning on a cold start up there is a rattle which comes from my engine which I can confirmed is the bypass valve or drain back valve in the oil filter. After some research I found other people with the same issue.

K&N is actually made in China and Mexico now. There quality is not the same as it once was. Also, my pureone filter has so far kept my oil cleaner, mileage vs mileage.
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Old January 21st, 2016, 01:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Over on the oil forums they've tested/cut open various oil filters & maybe you just had a faulty one but the K&N filters were not good at all. Materials used & quality was about the same as any other regular auto parts filters. Fram Ultra & Fram Tough Guard are two good filters, the Ultra being the better one. I want to say Amsoil & Royal Purple were also top performers, both made by Champion. Although manufactures change all the time so you kind of have to be on the look out.

I just use the Mitsubishi filters cause I get them for free, even though they've been proven to be trash, as the other denso filters are now, Toyota included. The Mobil one filters were tested & they actually didn't do as good as people thought especially for the price.
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Old January 23rd, 2016, 06:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunset4G View Post
That is honestly the strangest thing I have ever heard. I have never heard of a car having no compression due to an oil filter. Hell, there are people out there with cars that run on very low to no oil (not saying it's a good thing), but the motor still runs with compression. Interesting...
Yeah. I'm still trying to get to the bottom of understanding it. I had one guy telling me there was no way I could lose compression across the board from an oil filter, then when talking to another guy the next day, he tells me he had a vehicle with vvt that ran like complete crap with a defective oil filter because the valves timing were controlled by oil pressure with the VVT...

Our motors are incorporated with the Mitsubishi Innovative valve timing electronic control. I believe this system must be somehow dependent on oil delivery/pressure to allow proper function of valve height/lift. I wouldn't think it could be so sensitive as to completely render compression to diddly-squat, but I suppose it might actually be a good thing. I can't really get any good information with details on exactly how the system works. There doesn't appear to be anything electronic within the cams or lifters, so they certainly can't be referring to spark timing only.
The facts are that the car ran flawlessly before the oil change, then completely went for a full 180 to shutting down and not running and sounding like complete garbage. Then comes right back to running perfect with a simple swap out to a different filter. I wish I would have known this could be possible before spending hours looking for a more serious problem.

I literally had a miniature heart attack believing my timing belt snapped and had a bent valves on both heads.

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; January 23rd, 2016 at 06:20 AM.
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Old January 23rd, 2016, 06:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I've always heard good things about wix and pureone filters as being good quality and not being expensive at the same time, but it's difficult to conveniently find these in the local stores around here. It's just your usual fram, k&n, quaker state.

I did let k&n know about my filter issue. They immediately contacted me and want the filter to examine it. I'm a little reluctant to do so since it's my only source of proof of a faulty filter. Putting all my trust in their hands is not something I'm comfortable with. I'd like to somehow have it tested out myself, or independently before turning it over to them. It would be far too easy for them to just say, "oh it seems to work fine with a slight loss in flow, but we'll send you a replacement for the trouble".

This one does have Made in Mexico stamped right on it, ftr.

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; January 23rd, 2016 at 06:22 AM.
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08 eclipse, art, bar, belt, broken, car, change, crank, crankshaft, eclipse, engine, filter, good, head, i i, ice, kit, oil, oil change, pulley, pump, start, synthetic, timing, top

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