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Suprsaiyjinbroli · August 20th, 2009, 11:40 AM

*For those that are a little more advanced. The CLOSED LOOP is 40% TPS and 4000RPMs and below*

I'm going to take this in baby steps so it is very simple to follow:

Open up your AEM FIC Software.

You're looking at the actual program...not the MAP(s)(ing) you're going to want to modify.

Now, you'll need to open up the pass thru MAP that came with the FIC. Odds are that everyone's is in the same place/file but anyone that is pretty handy with a computer shouldn't have an issue finding it:

Click on File
Click on Open
(This may vary a little from this point. For those of you pretty computer literate...find the AEM Folder, FIC Folder, then select the .fi6 file.)
Double Click on My Computer
Double Click on Local Disk (Usually C: Drive)
Double Click on Program Files
Double Click on AEM
Double Click on FIC
Double Click on the *****.fi6 file (***** could be anything...I'm not sure what the base program file is because I've renamed mine)

Once the .fi6 opens, you'll be looking at this:

I know it is a little tough to see...but now that the .fi6 is open you have the option to actually open up the MAPs (The I, F,M, O, A, B) of the file. If you look close you can see that they have turned white and a few other things have lit up as well.

Now, take your USB cord that came with the FIC and run it from the FIC into the laptop. Once you've achieved that, you're going to want to connect to the FIC by clicking the Connect FIC button which looks like two plugs and a wire (See the area I tried to blow up. Its one of those):

Now that you're connecting a pop up window is gonna show up (If it doesn't pop up, don't worry. You can simply skip over this entire paragraph and go to the next step). You can read it if you'd like, but basically it is telling you that the calibration (MAP and/or .fi6 file) in the FIC and Laptop aren't matching up. You've got to tell the FIC which calibration (MAP and/or .fi6 file) you'd like it to read. It gives you some options: From FIC and To FIC (There are more options but lets keep it simple). Click on the To FIC box. What this is doing is telling the FIC to read the calibration that you have open on your laptop as its operating calibration.

Now you've got to calibrate the calibration. By that I mean you've got to get the FIC setup for your specific TPS and RPM. Big words...very easy. In the FIC software looks towards the very top. See where it says File, ECU, Edit, View and etc. Click on Setup. The drop down menu will have a few options but you're going to look for Calibration, click that.

A pop up came up with RPMs and TPSs. There should be a box that says Auto under each one of those. This part is easy. Click on the TPS one first (just because I think its even easier than the RPMs). Now, just let it walk you through...The FIC tells you what to do. Now that the TPS is calibrated for your vehicle time to do the RPMs. (I found this a little bit irritating but thats because I wanted it perfect...as should you. I actually ended up calibrating this AFTER I had been driving for awhile, egine was warm and I had a steady idle so I didn't have to worry about holding my RPMs at a certain RPM...I just let it idle and calibrated it. I set it to 600 RPMs, I'm guessing with different intakes/mods...you may idle a little different) Now, time for the RPMs. You'll need to put in a RPM that you can easily hold the car at for up to 10 seconds. Select the RPM and click the Auto button. Again, the FIC will now walk you through what you need to do.

(*Note: For those of you worried at this point that something has changed in your vehicle ECU...don't. All you've done to this point is setup the FIC to READ YOUR ECU correctly. That is all.)

Now that you're calibrated...you're ready to get a good datalog/start point.

(Make sure you're FIC is hooked up with everything you'll need, wideband, vacuum line, all the ECU Pins, etc. Its better to have a lot of information that you can filter down than to not have enough.)

(*Note: There seems to be some debate over what is a good datalogger and/or isn't. ALL YOU NEED IS A WIDEBAND, FIC AND LAPTOP. Period. You can use the FIC datalogging ability. As a matter of fact I don't understand why you wouldn't seeing as how your car is going to be getting its data...FROM THE FIC. You don't need to spend a ton of money on anything else. If you throw a misfire code...you run up to Autozone, use the OBD2...or get ghetto fab like me and unhook the battery a lot...add more fuel in a certain range and keep going. That simple. Don't let anyone tell you that you need this or that. But, certain items may make life easier. That is your call and money.)

(The instructions are continued as if you were doing all of this in one shot...so if you did everything up to this point and went away...just hook up the laptop to the FIC connect, crank it up and start reading again.)

Since you're already hook/connected to the FIC lets get some information going so we can scal/setup the tables you'll need. Click on the PC Logger Start button (The squiggly line that is green when connected to the FIC right near the Setup button (Tools Crossed)):

Drive the car normally for about a minute and let it warm up. Once it is warm...the fun begins...run the shit out of it. Open the throttle as wide as it'll go, get through all your gears.

Once your done having fun click the same PC Logger Start button. This time, it will stop the log. Instantly, a Save As File...pop up box will show. Save the file somewhere you'll be able to easily find it. (When you datalog and save the file, you'll notice it is a Microsoft Word Pad file. Total pain in the ass to use/read. What I did was open the file, Select All, Copy and then I Pasted it into an Excel sheet so the information would be easier to filter and/or see. Use Excels Autofilter feature. If you have trouble on this, pretty much anyone can help you that is sorta handy with Excel.)

Look at your Log. It will probably look something like this (This pic is so horrible):

Now, you've got to know what your looking at. Let's review what you actually logged:

Time: The actual seconds of the log
Engine Speed: The RPM you were at
Throttle: The TP you were at
Fuel Trim: The fuel that you either pulled and/or added (At this point it should read 0s)
Ignition Trim: The timing you either pulled and/or added (At this point it should read 0s)
Maf In: The voltage of the maf coming in
Maf Out: The voltage of the maf going out
Battery: The voltage of the battery
O2 Bank 1: The voltage of the O2 Sensors on Bank 1
O2 Bank 2: The voltage of the O2 Sensors on Bank 2
Engine Load: The PSIA inside the manifold
Sw 12Vdc: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)
Inj 1%: The % load of the injector
Inj 2%: The % load of the injector
Inj 3%: The % load of the injector
Inj 4%: The % load of the injector
Inj 5%: The % load of the injector
Inj 6%: The % load of the injector
Test: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)
Analog A In: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)
Analog A Out: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)
Analog B In: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)
Analog B Out: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.)

Click on the Setup System button (The tools that are crossed right near the log button. Only do this if you would like to advance/retard timing...otherwise skip this part and move on to the next section):

(For me it was easier to set everything to TPS on the Ignition in the Setup System..I would highly suggest it, since I'm going to go down that line, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to figure out another way. This entire Ignition section of this write up is intended for those running a shot, basically retarding timing. I'm sure it is similar to advance...but I don't know. Honestly I haven't tried because it won't help me.) Setup the Ignition for the Load Input you'd like to tune with...either TPS, MAF or MAP.

Now, to play with timing, you'll want to click on the I for Ignition Map:

After that, you'll be looking at the actual Ignition MAP the FIC has. You'll be seeing a bunch of 0s an RPM axis and a TPS axis.

August 20th, 2009, 11:40 AM	#1 (permalink)
Suprsaiyjinbroli 900 PSI Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Florida Vehicle: '06 Liquid Silver GT Posts: 1,518 Rep Power: 3	HOW TO: F/I C Basics For those that are a little more advanced. The CLOSED LOOP is 40% TPS and 4000RPMs and below I'm going to take this in baby steps so it is very simple to follow: Open up your AEM FIC Software. You're looking at the actual program...not the MAP(s)(ing) you're going to want to modify. Now, you'll need to open up the pass thru MAP that came with the FIC. Odds are that everyone's is in the same place/file but anyone that is pretty handy with a computer shouldn't have an issue finding it: Click on File Click on Open (This may vary a little from this point. For those of you pretty computer literate...find the AEM Folder, FIC Folder, then select the .fi6 file.) Double Click on My Computer Double Click on Local Disk (Usually C: Drive) Double Click on Program Files Double Click on AEM Double Click on FIC Double Click on the ***.fi6 file (*** could be anything...I'm not sure what the base program file is because I've renamed mine) Once the .fi6 opens, you'll be looking at this: I know it is a little tough to see...but now that the .fi6 is open you have the option to actually open up the MAPs (The I, F,M, O, A, B) of the file. If you look close you can see that they have turned white and a few other things have lit up as well. Now, take your USB cord that came with the FIC and run it from the FIC into the laptop. Once you've achieved that, you're going to want to connect to the FIC by clicking the Connect FIC button which looks like two plugs and a wire (See the area I tried to blow up. Its one of those): Now that you're connecting a pop up window is gonna show up (If it doesn't pop up, don't worry. You can simply skip over this entire paragraph and go to the next step). You can read it if you'd like, but basically it is telling you that the calibration (MAP and/or .fi6 file) in the FIC and Laptop aren't matching up. You've got to tell the FIC which calibration (MAP and/or .fi6 file) you'd like it to read. It gives you some options: From FIC and To FIC (There are more options but lets keep it simple). Click on the To FIC box. What this is doing is telling the FIC to read the calibration that you have open on your laptop as its operating calibration. Now you've got to calibrate the calibration. By that I mean you've got to get the FIC setup for your specific TPS and RPM. Big words...very easy. In the FIC software looks towards the very top. See where it says File, ECU, Edit, View and etc. Click on Setup. The drop down menu will have a few options but you're going to look for Calibration, click that. A pop up came up with RPMs and TPSs. There should be a box that says Auto under each one of those. This part is easy. Click on the TPS one first (just because I think its even easier than the RPMs). Now, just let it walk you through...The FIC tells you what to do. Now that the TPS is calibrated for your vehicle time to do the RPMs. (I found this a little bit irritating but thats because I wanted it perfect...as should you. I actually ended up calibrating this AFTER I had been driving for awhile, egine was warm and I had a steady idle so I didn't have to worry about holding my RPMs at a certain RPM...I just let it idle and calibrated it. I set it to 600 RPMs, I'm guessing with different intakes/mods...you may idle a little different) Now, time for the RPMs. You'll need to put in a RPM that you can easily hold the car at for up to 10 seconds. Select the RPM and click the Auto button. Again, the FIC will now walk you through what you need to do. (Note: For those of you worried at this point that something has changed in your vehicle ECU...don't. All you've done to this point is setup the FIC to READ YOUR ECU correctly. That is all.) Now that you're calibrated...you're ready to get a good datalog/start point. (Make sure you're FIC is hooked up with everything you'll need, wideband, vacuum line, all the ECU Pins, etc. Its better to have a lot of information that you can filter down than to not have enough.) (Note: There seems to be some debate over what is a good datalogger and/or isn't. ALL YOU NEED IS A WIDEBAND, FIC AND LAPTOP. Period. You can use the FIC datalogging ability. As a matter of fact I don't understand why you wouldn't seeing as how your car is going to be getting its data...FROM THE FIC. You don't need to spend a ton of money on anything else. If you throw a misfire code...you run up to Autozone, use the OBD2...or get ghetto fab like me and unhook the battery a lot...add more fuel in a certain range and keep going. That simple. Don't let anyone tell you that you need this or that. But, certain items may make life easier. That is your call and money.) (The instructions are continued as if you were doing all of this in one shot...so if you did everything up to this point and went away...just hook up the laptop to the FIC connect, crank it up and start reading again.) Since you're already hook/connected to the FIC lets get some information going so we can scal/setup the tables you'll need. Click on the PC Logger Start button (The squiggly line that is green when connected to the FIC right near the Setup button (Tools Crossed)): Drive the car normally for about a minute and let it warm up. Once it is warm...the fun begins...run the shit out of it. Open the throttle as wide as it'll go, get through all your gears. Once your done having fun click the same PC Logger Start button. This time, it will stop the log. Instantly, a Save As File...pop up box will show. Save the file somewhere you'll be able to easily find it. (When you datalog and save the file, you'll notice it is a Microsoft Word Pad file. Total pain in the ass to use/read. What I did was open the file, Select All, Copy and then I Pasted it into an Excel sheet so the information would be easier to filter and/or see. Use Excels Autofilter feature. If you have trouble on this, pretty much anyone can help you that is sorta handy with Excel.) Look at your Log. It will probably look something like this (This pic is so horrible): Now, you've got to know what your looking at. Let's review what you actually logged: Time: The actual seconds of the log Engine Speed: The RPM you were at Throttle: The TP you were at Fuel Trim: The fuel that you either pulled and/or added (At this point it should read 0s) Ignition Trim: The timing you either pulled and/or added (At this point it should read 0s) Maf In: The voltage of the maf coming in Maf Out: The voltage of the maf going out Battery: The voltage of the battery O2 Bank 1: The voltage of the O2 Sensors on Bank 1 O2 Bank 2: The voltage of the O2 Sensors on Bank 2 Engine Load: The PSIA inside the manifold Sw 12Vdc: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Inj 1%: The % load of the injector Inj 2%: The % load of the injector Inj 3%: The % load of the injector Inj 4%: The % load of the injector Inj 5%: The % load of the injector Inj 6%: The % load of the injector Test: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Analog A In: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Analog A Out: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Analog B In: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Analog B Out: (I'm not 100% sure on this one...but I didn't need it. Maybe someone can tell me.) Click on the Setup System button (The tools that are crossed right near the log button. Only do this if you would like to advance/retard timing...otherwise skip this part and move on to the next section): (For me it was easier to set everything to TPS on the Ignition in the Setup System..I would highly suggest it, since I'm going to go down that line, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to figure out another way. This entire Ignition section of this write up is intended for those running a shot, basically retarding timing. I'm sure it is similar to advance...but I don't know. Honestly I haven't tried because it won't help me.) Setup the Ignition for the Load Input you'd like to tune with...either TPS, MAF or MAP. Now, to play with timing, you'll want to click on the I for Ignition Map: After that, you'll be looking at the actual Ignition MAP the FIC has. You'll be seeing a bunch of 0s an RPM axis and a TPS axis. Last edited by Suprsaiyjinbroli; August 26th, 2009 at 07:05 PM.