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Old July 16th, 2009, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry ingalls Torque Damper setting

is there a chart on how to adjust this think.. i want ti stiffer...do i make the thread count more or less on both adjustment...help me please
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Old July 16th, 2009, 06:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by skyline775 View Post
is there a chart on how to adjust this think.. i want ti stiffer...do i make the thread count more or less on both adjustment...help me please
First loosen the lock nut (sivler nut) Then hold the stiffy () take a cresent wrench and twist the smaller gold/brass ring and loosen it, it should go towards the silver nut. Then twist the larger brass ring in or out to adjust stiffnest. You want a setting of about 12mm...

To measure, measure from the brass ring to the begining of the silver part of the damper..

The black line shows the measurement...10 is the stiffest..do not do this unless you do alot of track driving and 15 is the softest..So 12 is probably the best setting for you. I have tested the settings and use 12 myself. Adjust the brass ring in to up the stiffness.

The black line is how you should measure. Remember the measurements are in mm milimeters.

Once you have adjusted the brass ring accordingly, be sure to tighten your silver locknut to about 15 lb ft torque...

I know it's alot of nuts and stiffys and such but its pretty simple..Hope it helps!

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Old July 16th, 2009, 08:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hey, why not make it the stiffest setting? Anything wrong with doing that, outside the increased vibration to the steering wheel?
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Old July 16th, 2009, 11:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hey, why not make it the stiffest setting? Anything wrong with doing that, outside the increased vibration to the steering wheel?
The stiffest setting is not recommended because if you drive with it on the stiffest setting daily, it'll pretty much strip out and you are shit outta luck
:S
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Old July 17th, 2009, 11:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good thing I got someone else to install mine
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Old July 17th, 2009, 11:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This should be made a sticky!
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Old July 17th, 2009, 04:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This should be made a sticky!
Yes please sticky to cut down on pm's
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Old July 20th, 2009, 10:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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thank you so much. so 12 mm i will try..thanks for the info..
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Old August 26th, 2009, 07:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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this was very useful! thanks!
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Old December 10th, 2009, 03:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info, it helped. I didn't feel much of a difference but perhaps because i have rear energy suspension motor mount bushing and front Ripp motor mount bushing. I do feel vibrations at high speeds though.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 12:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Good thing I got someone else to install mine
Haha, I can't help myself....

Lisa had a 12mm stiffy installed....???
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Old January 28th, 2011, 01:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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uh yeah, I guess might want to give some heed to how this is actually set, huh? let me go do that....thanks, Will.

HA you brought up a year old thread - and I know some people have just recently bought and installed this. good timing.
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Old May 9th, 2011, 08:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When we install the stiffy, we turn the whole silver unit to adjust its position. How far should we be turning the whole unit? I turned mine until it was pushing the engine forward just slightly. I didnt want to turn it too much and put too much pressure on the stiffy. I couldn't find anything in the instructions on this.
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Old May 9th, 2011, 09:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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When we install the stiffy, we turn the whole silver unit to adjust its position. How far should we be turning the whole unit? I turned mine until it was pushing the engine forward just slightly. I didnt want to turn it too much and put too much pressure on the stiffy. I couldn't find anything in the instructions on this.
Search more!!! I'm on my phone, otherwise i'd find it for you, but you wanna be careful when you set up the Stiffy. I remember setting it up to 12mm BEFORE installing it, tgen bolt it up...
Check Ingalls website, i'm sure they have instructions.

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Old May 9th, 2011, 10:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm not talking about the gold adjustment nuts. When you have the stiffy mounted and in place, with the silver lock nut loose, you can spin the ENTIRE stiffy. When this is done it lengthens or shortens the whole system. By doing this you can either push your engine forward or pull it back towards the firewall. So in other words when static you can put tension or compression force on the stiffy.
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Old May 9th, 2011, 10:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I just read the website adjustments. This is something that IS NOT COVERED in the packaged instructions. When you install the stiffy you adjust the length of the two hiem joints to fit the brackets with no force applied, I.E. it should be installed to be neutral, niether pushing nor pulling the engine. The center-to-center measurement between the hiem joints should be close to 7", and no more than six threads should extend past the lock nut. So the stiffy pictured above is at the maximum recommended "length". See what I mean? Something that wasn't covered that I stumbled upon when installing mine.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 01:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ussoldier0227 View Post
First loosen the lock nut (sivler nut) Then hold the stiffy () take a cresent wrench and twist the smaller gold/brass ring and loosen it, it should go towards the silver nut. Then twist the larger brass ring in or out to adjust stiffnest. You want a setting of about 12mm...

To measure, measure from the brass ring to the begining of the silver part of the damper..

The black line shows the measurement...10 is the stiffest..do not do this unless you do alot of track driving and 15 is the softest..So 12 is probably the best setting for you. I have tested the settings and use 12 myself. Adjust the brass ring in to up the stiffness.

The black line is how you should measure. Remember the measurements are in mm milimeters.

Once you have adjusted the brass ring accordingly, be sure to tighten your silver locknut to about 15 lb ft torque...

I know it's alot of nuts and stiffys and such but its pretty simple..Hope it helps!

yup, the ingalls instruction are very poor, thanks for the clarification,
i still have some (vrrrmmmm) noise though
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Old June 6th, 2012, 03:18 AM   #18 (permalink)
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do u still recomend getting motor mounts on top of this or will this be enough by itself on a NA set up with just I/H/E ?
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Old June 6th, 2012, 04:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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^FOR SURE get motor mounts. cheap & relatively easy to install. no excuse not to. IF you are modding your car for performance and tax it at all, the motor mounts are a MUST have. If you have headers, they are a must have. The only people who don't need the motor mounts are people who do not ever "go fast" for whatever reason. If you accelerate hard at all on any kind of consistent basis, YES, get the mounts.
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Old April 27th, 2014, 01:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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^FOR SURE get motor mounts. cheap & relatively easy to install. no excuse not to. IF you are modding your car for performance and tax it at all, the motor mounts are a MUST have. If you have headers, they are a must have. The only people who don't need the motor mounts are people who do not ever "go fast" for whatever reason. If you accelerate hard at all on any kind of consistent basis, YES, get the mounts.
Motors mounts are now on the shopping list. Thanks!

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Old May 17th, 2015, 12:02 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I installed mine today, I have it adjusted correctly and I have noticed a slight difference. But when I'm reving high there is a loud annoying knocking sound coming from my engine bay it sounds like its right on the firewall... Has anyone else encountered this???
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Old May 17th, 2015, 04:42 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I had the same issue. Make sure it is tightened down and you put all the washers etc on. Should fix it.
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Old May 17th, 2015, 06:55 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I installed mine today, I have it adjusted correctly and I have noticed a slight difference. But when I'm reving high there is a loud annoying knocking sound coming from my engine bay it sounds like its right on the firewall... Has anyone else encountered this???

Well if the torque damper was installed correctly, you should have zero sounds from the engine compartment. The only thing that could be making a sound is a broken engine mount, or roll stopper.

If it is a mount, I would look at your rear roll stopper. If it still factory, it is normally the first one to go, very soft cheap rubber. The roll mounts can be upgrade for $47.00. I don't know how many HP mods you have, but once you start adding HP, you must upgrade the roll mounts, and adding a stiffy just makes it better.

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ENGINE ROLL STOPPER AND CENTERMEMBER PAGE 32-9
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I'm Going to put out a little "WARNING": "Good enough for government work does not apply to this vehicle, LOL!!" To many members here think that a torque wrench is an option when doing maintenance on their vehicle/engine. There are to many aluminum to aluminum parts, let alone steal to aluminum parts on this engine, drive train, and suspension. In the case of the rear roll stopper, members have over-torqued the attach bolts, or then again under-torqued those bolts. DAMAGE: They broke both the mount and cracked the lower block where the mount attaches.
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Old May 17th, 2015, 10:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Humm OK I will go over it agine tomorrow when I'm back at work. I drove it around quite a bit and its not getting any worse or better. It could possibly be the rear mount it is still factory. Thanks for the tips guys
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Old September 29th, 2015, 09:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Has anyone encountered any type of failure on the stiffy for the 4g? I loved having it on my 3g but I broke the strut side bracket 2 times. Anyone have anything like this happen?
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Old September 30th, 2015, 07:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I have the energy motor mounts (Roll Stoppers) and the Ingalls Stiffy installed for around eight years with zero problems, and I'm not a light driver. Have yet to hear anyone have problems with their stiffy. We had one member who had it on to high of a setting so he ended up rebuilding the stiffy in about three-month... that's it.
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Old September 30th, 2015, 07:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The damper is great..for my problem the bracket just couldn't hack it...I ended up with polly front mount...but I ended up torque in the bracket apart..lol I know it sounds like I might be full of it but I was shocked too lol
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Old October 1st, 2015, 09:38 AM   #28 (permalink)
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The damper is great..for my problem the bracket just couldn't hack it...I ended up with polly front mount...but I ended up torque in the bracket apart..lol I know it sounds like I might be full of it but I was shocked too lol
Oh, I believe you... One of the biggest mistakes that I see on the 4G is when people change out their stock roll stopper mounts with energy roll stoppers. They fail to use the proper torque value when re-installing these mounts. Torquing these mounts is very critical, to tight, or to loose the mounts will break off the engine doing extensive damage to the engine block. 95% of the time it's the rear roll stopper mount that breaks off the engine.

If you don't own any torque wrenches, you better buy and use them on this car.
I've seen to many people snap, strip, or crack parts because they failed to
follow proper torque values when re-installing parts. Cost of a torque wrench
$20 to $30 dollars, cost for repairs, $50+ dollars, one guy it cost him his engine,
$4500 to replace the motor.
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Old October 2nd, 2015, 02:32 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Oh yea I have "# and '# in my box..my buddies laugh when I bust em out and ask if they know the proper torque..
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