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4G Eclipse GT/SE Specific 3.8L V6 (6G75) Specific Forum


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Old May 6th, 2011, 07:25 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Fuck an Evo, I'm going for import tuner cover, no ones seen a nasty eclipse in 10 years and I'm going to give it to them. I've done every fucking thing possible to make this motor/car over the top. Ever single part of this motor is friction coated, powered coated or painted. Silver block, silver heads, BOTH valve covers yellow, silver coated headers, polished intake for now, may powder the intake manifold silver, painted fuel rail and break calipers yellow and looking to have a silver carbon fiber engine cover made. Intake Spacers, NGK plugs, eiback sway bars. Stock y and mid pipe with a Greddy Evo2 muffler for now.

That's all stage one. Hopefully that will all take place by the end of the month and back together. After that i guess I'll be going PSI/RIPP SDS kit again at 20 psi and a front mount. Tial or synchronic BOV, larger STI injectors, walbro pump, K&N filter, and tactrix reflash.

Stage 3 is just 6 piston yellow brembos. I want my car to look stock as possible buy a monster under the hood
I second that Tom, eclipses are much nicer
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Old May 6th, 2011, 08:07 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Hey Tom you never answered my question on those arp studs we were working together on, do they mate up perfectly?
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Old May 7th, 2011, 08:35 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I don't have them installed but they look right...
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Old May 7th, 2011, 08:47 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Travis, you ever find out if they can make another y pipe?
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Old May 8th, 2011, 02:39 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Travis, you ever find out if they can make another y pipe?
Ya they said they would make another. Just going to go in and have them take mine off and replicate it. and than will test it on my eclipse for any exhaust leaks or anything. That ok? Also your going to be running RRE Headers as well correct?
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Old May 8th, 2011, 03:18 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Another quick question, do you want me to have them weld a O2 bung into the y pipe for your wideband?
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Old May 9th, 2011, 09:35 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Yeah man that would be great with the O2! That would be awesome man, thanks! Where's the thread that's has the pics? And it's stainless steel right? What size abs doesn't hook up to the stock center pipe?

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Old May 9th, 2011, 09:48 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Yeah man that would be great with the O2! That would be awesome man, thanks! Where's the thread that's has the pics? And it's stainless steel right? What size abs doesn't hook up to the stock center pipe?
Y-pipe can be found here:
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Old May 10th, 2011, 09:41 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Does it hook up to the stock exhaust and is it Stainless steel? If both yes can you get me one ASAP!
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Old May 10th, 2011, 10:12 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Does it hook up to the stock exhaust and is it Stainless steel? If both yes can you get me one ASAP!
I had them use different flanges that connect to the RRE headers. Because the stock y pipe flange is for a 2 1/4 flange. RRE Headers use the 2 1/2 flange. When I had them try to use 2 1/4 flanges I had really bad exhaust leaks. 2 1/2 flanges worked perfect. Stainless steel yes. Now for the rear connection of the Y-pipe that connects to the rest of the exhaust i had to have them use the flange off the stock y pipe, reason being because the stock flange is a pivoting flange.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 12:50 PM   #91 (permalink)
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You I need to bolt up RRE headers and stock cat back. I wonder if you can buy one, don't see why I can't. Let me check around jegs.com and stock.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 04:12 PM   #92 (permalink)
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You I need to bolt up RRE headers and stock cat back. I wonder if you can buy one, don't see why I can't. Let me check around jegs.com and stock.
Ya im not sure if they can order that pivoting flange. If you can find one, ship it to me so i can have it made for you, or you would have to take your stock y pipe off and have someone cut that flange off and ship it to me, but you would be without a y pipe for alittle bit.
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Old May 12th, 2011, 09:13 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Jet hot friction coating on the skirt and heat coating on the face:





Everythings at the machine shop just the bearings, he even has the extra set of heads for P&P! Shouldn't be long!

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Old May 12th, 2011, 09:38 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Old May 13th, 2011, 08:18 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Old May 13th, 2011, 10:18 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Getting a three pod pillar with automater cobalt gauges...getting electric full sweep vacuum/30psi, electrical Wideband A/F what would be the best third gauge!?? Im going for 20 psi, nasty power with a self lubricated supercharger so I don't think I need oil pressure, and I don't care about volts. Prob either water temp or oil temp to make sure I'm not over heating?

Open for suggestion!
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Old May 13th, 2011, 11:54 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Getting a three pod pillar with automater cobalt gauges...getting electric full sweep vacuum/30psi, electrical Wideband A/F what would be the best third gauge!?? Im going for 20 psi, nasty power with a self lubricated supercharger so I don't think I need oil pressure, and I don't care about volts. Prob either water temp or oil temp to make sure I'm not over heating?

Open for suggestion!
I'd def get a oil pressure because you never have a clue when your oil pump might go out.....my friend blew up his Sr20 240 it was fully built with a 35r ....600whp ....none the less a gauge maybe woulda gave him a clue or enuff time to cut off the car


and get a water temp too!

Any boosted application I'd recommend Oil pressure, water temp, vacc, fuel pressure, and of course a wide band
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Old May 14th, 2011, 07:06 AM   #98 (permalink)
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If you lose oil pressure isn't you engine temp going to quickly rise from the friction and you'll see it in your water temp?

How is the glowshift gauge pillar installed? Does it replace the current one or go over it?

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Old May 14th, 2011, 11:02 AM   #99 (permalink)
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If you lose oil pressure isn't you engine temp going to quickly rise from the friction and you'll see it in your water temp?

How is the glowshift gauge pillar installed? Does it replace the current one or go over it?
The glowshift pillar pods go right over the stock pillar. May have to use a screw or double sided tape to keep it attached.
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Old May 14th, 2011, 11:12 AM   #100 (permalink)
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The glowshift pillar pods go right over the stock pillar. May have to use a screw or double sided tape to keep it attached.
it comes with screws with black caps to cover the screw heads.
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Old May 14th, 2011, 04:57 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Sound fucking ghetto...
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Old May 15th, 2011, 10:20 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Any more opinion on the third gauge???
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Old May 18th, 2011, 05:53 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Main and rod bearings jet-friction coated and full engine rebuild gasket set(head, manifold, water ways, valve seats, everything)




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Old May 18th, 2011, 08:18 PM   #104 (permalink)
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What did you pay for the full gasket set, Tom?
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Old May 18th, 2011, 08:59 PM   #105 (permalink)
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260 I think. Rebuild gasket kit, 6 rod bearings, 4 main bearings, 1 thurst bearing skipped was $607

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Old June 10th, 2011, 03:13 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Machine shop goes full steam ahead on the motor starting Monday. Just sent te headers the headers to jet-hot to get coated, comp cam behive valve springs ordered from delta cams. Valve covers still out to be powder coated. Shouldn't be long before I get sine good pic!
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Old June 10th, 2011, 04:51 PM   #107 (permalink)
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I was gonna ask you how everything is going. Haven't heard any recent updates from ya. Glad to hear bro. Can't wait to see the final product.
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Old June 12th, 2011, 07:16 PM   #108 (permalink)
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What are you planning on using to control the ecu after the new cams are in?
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Old June 12th, 2011, 10:23 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I'm doing cams until I see a set come lot that work. I don't want any ECU. I'll just be doing the reflash.
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Old June 12th, 2011, 10:49 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If you lose oil pressure isn't you engine temp going to quickly rise from the friction and you'll see it in your water temp?

How is the glowshift gauge pillar installed? Does it replace the current one or go over it?
I took my OEM plastic piece out and installed my triple pod. If you chose to leave the original one in you have to drill into it to get all the wires to pass through.

I ran one main power and one main ground and along with the sender wires there was still a whole bunch of wires back behind there. I put two screws in at the top of mine where the pieces come together.
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 12:32 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Just got my headers back!

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Old June 22nd, 2011, 01:56 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Looks awesome Tom. Congrats man. Christmas time at Tom's house haha. Whatdid u get me? Haha
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 04:29 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Tw Ripp has 3 sets left only the v3 though and they said it won't even get me to 20 psi so fuck them... They said maybe 15 so I ordered a v2 from vortech guaranteed to get me to 20psi... It's the v2 si trim... The other trims are smaller make sure you get a SI trim
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 05:26 PM   #114 (permalink)
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They told me v3si which is rated for 22psi. I won't think they'll have a pulley that small. I believe we have to change the under drive pulley at some point. Their 10-12 psi pulley is almost as small as you can go...

That Mexican turbo gt may be the way to go. I've always thought about a hidden turbo sitting in the rear....

I've been looking at some roots blowers too. I was looking at the 3.8l hyundia alpine supercharger as another option. But alpine doesn't exist anymore and those Aussie galant kits cost way too much.

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Old June 22nd, 2011, 05:33 PM   #115 (permalink)
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I wonder how hard it would be to change ripps shaft and alter the mounting block to fit a rotrex...
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 05:39 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Any aluminum shop can do it it's just the balancing issue!!!

Same with the crank pulley it's a balancer if u remove and put a heavy or lighter one I hear you can burn bearings out... Same as using a aluminum flywheel
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 05:40 PM   #117 (permalink)
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I got the 2.5 inch pulley now it's the smallest
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 06:25 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Have you also thought of contacting RPW about the supercharger kit they make for the 6G75 non mivec? I know it's a pretty nice little setup but not sure how much PSI you can get from it.
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 06:39 PM   #119 (permalink)
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The charger has to be balanced? So we have to make a smaller pulley buy needs to heavier? The Rre gs pulley is well under half the wait of the stock one...We may have to go standalone to make this work...if Rre can't get a underpinned right who else here is going to take the time and money to do it...

I wonder if any gs Ripp guys run Rre pulley??? I cait wait to se what you do before ibjave to jump into it. I have so many things I want to try buy don't have the money. I'd love a rear bank mounted turbo, roots blower or rotrex charger on a shaft. The last two requiring a lot of money. Ripp is the cheapest option but I want to see how you do it. Have you asked Ripp at all?
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 08:06 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Rpw would work but the charger is too small, only 15psi. Their larger charger won't fit, I airway made a Scale model and was way too big
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