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103K views 976 replies 76 participants last post by  TwilsonD7 
#1 · (Edited)
Engine build done!

Brian Crowler forged H-beam connecting rods
CP fordged aluminum pistons 1mm over sized, 8:1 compression, faced and skits coated
RRE headers ceramic coated
Delta Cam regrind cams
Supertech double coil valve springs and Ti retainers/seats
Custom Cometic head gasket
Custom torque plate bore/honed
ARP 2000 main/head/rod bolts
Port & Polished heads and valve job
Koyorad custom fit aluminum radiator
Samco radiator hoses w/SS t clamps
Quainfe LSD
Clutchmaster custom twin disc 800 series clutch
880cc injectors
Fastwork reflash and tune by Michael
Autometer Colbt Wideband meter
RRE carbon fiber engine cover
K&N custom short ram intake
Optima battery
NGK iridium one step colder plug
Powdercoating: Everything!

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From the beginning:
Well I had a Ripp stage 2 running 8-9psi with the methobal kit. Reflash to raise the rev, speed gov, and fuel scaler to work STI 566cc pink injectors controlled with AEM FIC. RIPP mods header jet coated to 3" back custom SS exhaust to a Greddy TiC muffler. Greddy type s bov, ngk iridium one step colder plugs, k&n filter, innovative lc1 wideband.

Well had some back timing or heat issued and busted the edged off a piston and ruin 2 plugs and sure my heads look like shit. Also messages up a lifter making the engine tick. I'm sure if I replace the lifter no one could ever tell it happened and just sell the car.
 
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#90 ·
I had them use different flanges that connect to the RRE headers. Because the stock y pipe flange is for a 2 1/4 flange. RRE Headers use the 2 1/2 flange. When I had them try to use 2 1/4 flanges I had really bad exhaust leaks. 2 1/2 flanges worked perfect. Stainless steel yes. Now for the rear connection of the Y-pipe that connects to the rest of the exhaust i had to have them use the flange off the stock y pipe, reason being because the stock flange is a pivoting flange.
 
#96 ·
Getting a three pod pillar with automater cobalt gauges...getting electric full sweep vacuum/30psi, electrical Wideband A/F what would be the best third gauge!?? Im going for 20 psi, nasty power with a self lubricated supercharger so I don't think I need oil pressure, and I don't care about volts. Prob either water temp or oil temp to make sure I'm not over heating?

Open for suggestion!
 
#97 · (Edited)
I'd def get a oil pressure because you never have a clue when your oil pump might go out.....my friend blew up his Sr20 240 it was fully built with a 35r ....600whp ....none the less a gauge maybe woulda gave him a clue or enuff time to cut off the car


and get a water temp too!

Any boosted application I'd recommend Oil pressure, water temp, vacc, fuel pressure, and of course a wide band
 
#106 ·
Machine shop goes full steam ahead on the motor starting Monday. Just sent te headers the headers to jet-hot to get coated, comp cam behive valve springs ordered from delta cams. Valve covers still out to be powder coated. Shouldn't be long before I get sine good pic!
 
#108 ·
What are you planning on using to control the ecu after the new cams are in?
 
#113 ·
Tw Ripp has 3 sets left only the v3 though and they said it won't even get me to 20 psi so fuck them... They said maybe 15 so I ordered a v2 from vortech guaranteed to get me to 20psi... It's the v2 si trim... The other trims are smaller make sure you get a SI trim
 
#114 · (Edited)
They told me v3si which is rated for 22psi. I won't think they'll have a pulley that small. I believe we have to change the under drive pulley at some point. Their 10-12 psi pulley is almost as small as you can go...

That Mexican turbo gt may be the way to go. I've always thought about a hidden turbo sitting in the rear....

I've been looking at some roots blowers too. I was looking at the 3.8l hyundia alpine supercharger as another option. But alpine doesn't exist anymore and those Aussie galant kits cost way too much.
 
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