ADVANCED Hydraulic Lifter Cleaning - Club4G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums - 2006-2012 Eclipse Authority
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4G Eclipse GT/SE Specific 3.8L V6 (6G75) Specific Forum


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Old July 19th, 2015, 11:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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ADVANCED Hydraulic Lifter Cleaning

Got an annoying lifter tick? Fix it before the hammering starts damaging the end of your valve stems. They're not that expensive to buy new from the dealer, but if you don't have time, and are stuck on a weekend when nothing is open and want your car back together, then try this...

You will need all the usual tools for removing the necessary parts to get down to the bare bones of your valve covers. If you don't have an INCH lbs torque wrench to properly complete the job, then you might as well stop here.
If you're clumsy and can't see things up close very well, stop here also. This is really small stuff!

I'm going to try and keep this as brief as I can;

You can determine which head the noisy lifter(s) is coming from by simply placing a long screwdriver or stethoscope to your ear while placing it on the front/back, and sides of each head of your engine. You can then narrow down which cover needs to come off on the V6. The lifters need to be tight with no squishyness when compressed at all.

Rotate your crankshaft clockwise until you find the nicest spot that your exhaust valves all close as much as possible and as evenly as possible. It won't be perfect, but you want as even of a tension across all the rockers as possible to put as little strain on the rocker when you loosen it. You will also want to plug the larger oil drain galleys that lead to the oil pan with rags. (Unless you want an HLA to fall into your oil pan area!) You do NOT need to remove the entire rocker shaft at all! Leave it in the car. You just simply need to go along all the bolts, and unscrew them nice and evenly about 1/4" to 1/2". Take your time loosening them all evenly! It's annoying, but important. This is all the room you'll need to lift up on the rocker arms, (for each lifter) to simply pull them out with your fingers. Some may just fall out when you lift up on the rocker. They're held in with a bit of a suction from the motor oil. They should slip out nicely when you pull out evenly and smoothly. Observe any unusual scoring or damage. They're extremely tough with very tight tolerances and should look almost as good as new, aside from the filthy black sludgy oil that will come out of them.

For the actual HLA disassembly:

All the tools that are required are a pair of plyers, and a SMALL flat blade screwdriver. (In picture 3)
The first step is to remove the plastic retaining clip that holds the inner plunger assembly together with the outer assembly. This is an extremely fragile piece and needs to be taken seriously when removing it. I simply lay the HLA on a flat surface and then press the flat blade on an aggressive angle between it and the outer assembly. I rotate the entire HLA for at least an entire 360 degrees or more to slowly force this plastic piece off (Picture 6). You cannot just press your screwdriver into the side of it and try to pop it off, it will break! You will see it slowly separate from the lip out of the outer assembly and then it will come off nicely. No aggressive prying required. It may get a couple nicks here and there, but it will be fine.

After this black plastic retainer is off, the rest of the disassembly is fairly easy, except that we're dealing with extremely small parts, so do NOT do this in some dirty, filthy area with piles of junk allover. Once you drop one of these smaller pieces, you'll likely never find it again.

You can remove the inner plunger form the outer assembly. It simply slides out and you'll now have the larger inner spring. (Picture 1 will show you exactly what you have, and the order it goes back together).

Some people stop here, but we're men and we'll go even further with the disassembly.

Now, we focus on the inner plunger assembly;
Grab your plyers and pull the cap that retains the MEGA tiny spring and check ball. DO NOT reckless pull this apart or the ball, and spring will go flying and you'll never find them again! Grab it as shown in picture 5 with the plyers and pull the cap off. If your plyers slip, just grab harder. This part is actually a very solid piece and won't buckle on you with a little extra force. It comes off easy enough.

Once off, you'll notice the ball comes out easily, but the spring is so damn tiny, it'll just want to stay inside the cap just from the oil in there. Take it out, and you can now toss all your parts in some diesel and let her soak to clean everything up.

After you're satisfied with the soaking, you can now take all your parts out of there and further clean them to however you like. I sprayed them all inside and out with carb cleaner. And wiped them down inside and out with paper towels and blew some of the parts dry... It's really up to you and however you want to clean them. With all the parts laying there, it's easy to clean it up to perfection. The inner plunger is easy to clean with carb cleaner since you can spray directly through the holes and get it really good and clean.

Note: I did not clean the plastic retaining clip with any carb cleaner as it may be too strong and melt/damage it. I just let it soak for a bit in the diesel and wiped it clean.
Now, you should have a total of 8 parts to re-assemble. (In picture 2). It's also in the correct order as pictured.

Put together the inner plunger by placing the tiny little spring properly back in its cap, and then place the little check ball on the spring. You can press the ball up and down to know you got it placed well... Now you can press the cap back over the inner plunger. It will sit all crooked and goofy at first. With the inner plunger on the table, take the small flat blade screwdriver and press the other area to seat it fully (Picture 4). You'll know it's good when it's not sitting crooked anymore. It takes some firm effort, but she snaps right in and you'll know you got it.

Now toss the large spring back in the outer body and slide the inner plunger with the check ball side facing towards the inside of the outer body. It'll slide in nice and tight. Next, slide the retaining ring over the end piece and then over the main body while it squeezes in on the inner plunger and snap her right back in place... It should go in quite a bit easier than removing. I noticed some of mine went back on tight, some we're a little easier than others...
Now you have a completely re-assembled HLA with zero debris and zero flaws that you could observe. You are NOT ready yet to put them in the car. You must bleed the air out of them while re-filling them with nice fresh oil.
Once you're done bleeding them, they should be tight as hell and not have any squishyness at all.

I used a small container of motor oil with the pin that came with my timing belt kit for the auto tensioner. It worked extremely well to bleed the air out and fill them back up with oil.

Since I'm getting a bit lazy with explaining things; A good thread for explaining the bleeding can be found here; (It also has other nice pictures and info you can add to your arsenal)

How to: bleeding lifters on the V6 - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums


They should go back in to the rockers easily. Add them in nice and oily. Once they're all installed, slowly turn all your bolts back down for the rocker assembly (EVENLY) until it's torqued to its final setting. Keep in mind that the large washers on the bolts are to face ONE way only. It's pretty obvious which way they must sit, but just make sure you are paying attention to this...
It's also not a bad time to check your intake valve lash with the cover(s) off.

Happy motoring with a nice quiet ride for ZERO dollars!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg HLA_1.jpg (17.1 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg HLA_2.jpg (16.3 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg HLA_3.jpg (58.8 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg HLA_4.jpg (22.4 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg HLA_5.jpg (24.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg HLA_6.jpg (17.4 KB, 21 views)

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; July 19th, 2015 at 12:27 PM.
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Old July 19th, 2015, 01:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice How-to...

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/inde...e/marveltales/
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Old July 27th, 2015, 09:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You're suppose to use diesel fuel to clean and recharge the lifters per the factory manual
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Old July 31st, 2015, 09:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilsonD7 View Post
You're suppose to use diesel fuel to clean and recharge the lifters per the factory manual
Yes. The other link on lifter bleeding that I posted in this thread covers that. It's also a reason why this thread is titled "ADVANCED hydraulic lifter cleaning" instead of "STANDARD Factory manual lifter cleaning"

On another unrelated note, I hope you fixed your cam seal placement from your engine build thread because you pushed it in WAY too far on the back head. I know, I did it myself.

Last edited by Porcupinepuffer; July 31st, 2015 at 11:40 AM.
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Old August 3rd, 2015, 07:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah I made it flush with the outside of the head
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