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103K views 976 replies 76 participants last post by  TwilsonD7 
#1 · (Edited)
Engine build done!

Brian Crowler forged H-beam connecting rods
CP fordged aluminum pistons 1mm over sized, 8:1 compression, faced and skits coated
RRE headers ceramic coated
Delta Cam regrind cams
Supertech double coil valve springs and Ti retainers/seats
Custom Cometic head gasket
Custom torque plate bore/honed
ARP 2000 main/head/rod bolts
Port & Polished heads and valve job
Koyorad custom fit aluminum radiator
Samco radiator hoses w/SS t clamps
Quainfe LSD
Clutchmaster custom twin disc 800 series clutch
880cc injectors
Fastwork reflash and tune by Michael
Autometer Colbt Wideband meter
RRE carbon fiber engine cover
K&N custom short ram intake
Optima battery
NGK iridium one step colder plug
Powdercoating: Everything!

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From the beginning:
Well I had a Ripp stage 2 running 8-9psi with the methobal kit. Reflash to raise the rev, speed gov, and fuel scaler to work STI 566cc pink injectors controlled with AEM FIC. RIPP mods header jet coated to 3" back custom SS exhaust to a Greddy TiC muffler. Greddy type s bov, ngk iridium one step colder plugs, k&n filter, innovative lc1 wideband.

Well had some back timing or heat issued and busted the edged off a piston and ruin 2 plugs and sure my heads look like shit. Also messages up a lifter making the engine tick. I'm sure if I replace the lifter no one could ever tell it happened and just sell the car.
 
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#200 ·
Tap the water jacket and run a hard line from it to the turbo and a return line to your water return.

That or you could use the water lines that you bypassed for the throttle body. They would work as they move water, even though it's not a huge amount.
 
#201 ·
Anything new bro?
 
#203 ·
Meh I personally wouldn't have coated the mains. I just went with a .001 over on the mains for my 300ZX for oil clearance. The coating seems like a great idea but I dunno if its worth it.

For sure the piston skirts though....

Post some pics man! I wanna see this beast.
 
#211 ·
You have the 6 speed right? If so, we lose alot less power than 20% to the wheels. 20% sounds like a RWD power loss or even a super efficient AWD setup. FWD as far as I've always known is about 10-12%.

This is what I found by Puma Racing in the UK.

True Transmission Losses
So is there any way of really measuring the true transmission loss of a car? Yes - only one - by measuring the flywheel power on an accurate engine dyno, the wheel power on an accurate chassis dyno and taking one away from the other. There is no way on God's green earth of finding out the true transmission loss just by measuring the power at the wheels.

So hopefully that's got you all thinking a bit more now instead of just taking for granted the "flywheel" figure you were given last time you took your car to the rollers. Even worse is the fact that some of these software systems allow the operator to just programme in the % transmission loss he wants the system to add to the wheel figures. So if that isn't a nice easy way to show some big fat flywheel bhp then I don't know of a better one. It's certainly a lot easier than actually doing some proper development work to make the engine perform better - just dial in a bigger transmission loss and bingo - the same wheel bhp now turns into a bigger flywheel bhp - happy customer, happy dyno man - just a shame it was all sleight of hand. See the end of this article if you doubt that this sort of thing really happens.

So what should you do when you take your car to a rolling road? Firstly, make sure you get printouts that show the wheel bhp and not just the flywheel bhp. Then at least you can see if they look sensible in comparison. If you have a desperate need to know the flywheel bhp then you will have to estimate it - there's no other way short of using an engine dyno.

The average front wheel drive road car with between 100 and 200 bhp loses about 15% of the engine bhp as transmission losses.

The average rear wheel drive road car with between 100 and 200 bhp loses about 17% of the engine bhp as transmission losses.

The 2% increase in losses over front wheel drive is because the differential has to turn the drive through 90 degrees at the back axle which soaks up a bit more of the engine's power. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines

4wd cars will have higher losses because of the extra differentials and other power transmission components. The tyre and main gearbox losses will be the same though. Correlating the performance of vehicles with the both 4wd and 2wd options (Audi's and the Sierra Cosworth are examples) shows 4wd transmission losses to be about 5% higher than rwd. 22% seems to be a good average.

What each individual car loses is an unknown - it will depend on tyre sizes and pressure, suspension angles and other things, but it shouldn't be far from the figures above. For sure though, no 2wd car in the world, unless it has flat tyres and a gearbox full of sand, loses anything like 30% of the engine's power in the transmission and tyres as many rolling road operators would try to have you believe. In general though it is fair to say that low powered cars have higher % losses than high powered cars. This is because some of the frictional losses are independent of engine power and so represent a bigger drain on a small engine. For example, a 60 bhp Fiesta will have around 14 to 15 bhp total transmission and tyre loss (25%) whereas a 90 bhp XR2 will only have about 17 to 18 bhp loss (20%) - a smaller % obviously. By the time you get to RWD cars with engines in the 300 to 500+ bhp range, losses can eventually drop to as little as 12% to 14% or so.

Converting wheel bhp to flywheel bhp and vice versa
To reflect the fact that % losses are high for low powered cars and vice versa I use the following equations which have been found to correlate well with real world transmission losses.

FWD cars - add 10 bhp to the wheel figure and divide the result by 0.9

RWD cars - add 10 bhp to the wheel figure and divide the result by 0.88

4WD cars - add 10bhp to the wheel figure and divide the result by 0.84

To estimate the expected wheel bhp from a known flywheel bhp just reverse the equations

FWD - multiply flywheel power by 0.9 and then deduct a further 10 bhp

RWD - multiply flywheel power by 0.88 and then deduct a further 10 bhp

4WD - multiply flywheel power by 0.84 and then deduct a further 10 bhp

Remember, these percentages are not "gospel" - they are good realistic averages. The measured wheel bhp can change depending on tyre pressure, tyre size, suspension angles and other things which won't affect flywheel power - so the actual transmission loss % will also change. It pays to try and standardize as many of these things as possible if you intend to do a series of power runs over a period of time. Always use the same tyre pressure because this is a factor which can easily change from day to day and make sure the tracking is correct on a fwd car. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines

Also please remember that the manufacturer's claimed power figures for a standard car are not gospel either. Even engines in perfect condition can vary by plus or minus 5% due to manufacturing tolerances. High mileage or poorly maintained engines can be well below the claimed output. It is no proof that a rolling road flywheel bhp estimate is correct just because it comes out as the same figure as the manufacturer's. Always compare with the measured wheel bhp to see if the transmission losses agree with the data above.

DYNO COMPARISONS
Imagine we take a car with a true 200 flywheel bhp engine to each of the various types of dyno. Assuming accurate dynos which is by no means always the case and calibration standards can be very lax then we would expect to see the following results.

FWD

Engine dyno - 200 bhp

Hub Dyno - 200 x 0.93 = 186 bhp

Wheel dyno - (200 x 0.9) - 10 = 170 bhp

RWD

Engine dyno - 200 bhp

Hub dyno - 200 x 0.91 = 182 bhp

Wheel dyno - (200 x 0.88) - 10 = 166 bhp
Just found another turbo option. Fordge performance takes Garrett turbos and ports them adding larger compressor wheels, more bag for your buck. The squeez a lot more power out of the smaller turbos...
This is what I'm running with the 300ZX. Stock housings that have been bored out to fit a larger CHRA. Keeps the stock size of the turbo, but pushes alot higher pressure and volume.
 
#213 · (Edited)
Im guessing I got the wrong bearing or theirs too much coating because they dont fit. New mains needed to be ordered and here tomorrow. block will be completely done tomorrow(assuming the new bearings fit) then onto the heads.

I'll be sending out the head gasket today to cometic and well see what that can do for us.
 
#216 ·
As soon as you know it your going to need new cv axles haha
 
#218 ·
Dude, I almost wanna drive out to Florida when it's done just to see it...
 
#220 ·
Stopped into the shop after my 18 hour drive home. Isn't too much to look at, it's all wrapped up. Heads were completely apart, new radii cut on the valves. Should take another week to get everything porter and polished. A whole doesn't need to be taken out, just touched up. Ive been told there's already more flow then I'll ever use so no use for larger valves. Still looking for a one piece valve and I'll get those and springs on order.

 
#223 ·
Consider the firing order of the engine. 1,2,3,4,5,6

Then consider where the piston is going to be at in a 4 cycle phase. Then it'll make all the sense in the world. I promise.

Your machine guy is right about the heads on this car. They've got AMAZING flow rates. I've taken just the numbers and specs on them to a few shops that specialize in head work here in San Diego and they even told me they couldn't really improve much on the design and really with the displacement there isn't much need to.

I will say though...it looks absolutely gorgeous so far.
 
#227 ·
I emailed every shop in Florida from Jacksonville to Orlando and not one responded back in the past 3-4 months. Your think with an economy like this a shop would job all over a
10K+ bulild....i really didn't want to venture into Miami/Tampa area. I kind of wanted to keep it as close as possible...it's getting frustrating!

I've been told the heads will be done next week minus springs.
 
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