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Old July 27th, 2013, 01:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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OEM Rockford Sub + 2 (project)

Hi everyone
Just thought I'd share the project I'm going to attempt.

What do you guys think?

Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be great.

+ 2 OEM subs = 3 total
+ 2 OEM amps = 3 total

they are just sitting in there in this pic.
( I was getting measurements for the sub mounting brackets)

not sure where I'm going to mount the amps yet. I was thinking to the right of the subs, under the plastic rear quarter panel?

Any suggestions about wireing?

I was thinking run my own power and ground to the 2 amps, and splice/tap into the other wires needed, from behind the stereo and/or where my oem amp is plugged in?

think it should work?



I know, I'm going to fix the trunk mat/carpet. this was my 1st test fit...

Last edited by ryguy; July 27th, 2013 at 01:25 PM.
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Old July 30th, 2013, 01:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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anyone familiar with the CAN/BUS system?

DO you see any problems happening from tapping into the OEM wire harness to run multiple amplifiers?
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Old July 30th, 2013, 02:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ok i think thaats badass. damn i want to try that now
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Old July 31st, 2013, 08:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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ok i think thaats badass. damn i want to try that now
Thanks! : )

You deff should.
you could just add 1 more sub and still have the option to transport larger objects if you wanted.

I never put my rear seats down, so I decided to go with 2 more subs....
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Old July 31st, 2013, 08:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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For that, I would run all run your own power wires and ground wires to the additional amps, and then tap into the signal wires from the first amp, and that should work just fine,

As for location, if you pull out the rear passenger panel, you would have plenty of room to mount the 2 amps there
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Old July 31st, 2013, 09:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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For that, I would run all run your own power wires and ground wires to the additional amps, and then tap into the signal wires from the first amp, and that should work just fine,

As for location, if you pull out the rear passenger panel, you would have plenty of room to mount the 2 amps there
Thanks for the input! : D

Do you think I will have any problems taping into the signal wires?
Like maybe the E-COMM errror? Since I'm going to be taping into the signal wire that talks to the amp?
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Old July 31st, 2013, 09:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input! : D

Do you think I will have any problems taping into the signal wires?
Like maybe the E-COMM errror? Since I'm going to be taping into the signal wire that talks to the amp?
I don't think so, just as long as you tap into the right wire,
But I would add 1 amp, test it, make sure it works correctly then,
if all good, add the third amp
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Old July 31st, 2013, 09:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't think so, just as long as you tap into the right wire,
But I would add 1 amp, test it, make sure it works correctly then,
if all good, add the third amp
Good idea. : )

If I did get the E-comm error, for some reason, could I then just un-do everything I did, put it back to stock, then disconnect the battery again and wait like 10 min, then hook it back up and it will reset back?

In other words, how do you reset the dash display after you get the E-comm error, and you have fixed the problem.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 09:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good idea. : )

If I did get the E-comm error, for some reason, could I then just un-do everything I did, put it back to stock, then disconnect the battery again and wait like 10 min, then hook it back up and it will reset back?

In other words, how do you reset the dash display after you get the E-comm error, and you have fixed the problem.
If for some reason you do, unhook it and disconnect the battery and tap the brakes a few times to make sure the system is fully dead, and should clear it,
But I don't think you will get the message
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Old July 31st, 2013, 10:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If for some reason you do, unhook it and disconnect the battery and tap the brakes a few times to make sure the system is fully dead, and should clear it,
But I don't think you will get the message
ok, great.
Thank you!

I dont think I will get the message either, but just in case...
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Old July 31st, 2013, 10:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Old August 5th, 2013, 10:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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anyone want to help me with the pin out/in for the wires to/from the OEM amp??

Which wire is power/ground/ amp turn on/ etc.......
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Old August 6th, 2013, 09:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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This one should help
Factory RF Audio System Specifications
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Old August 6th, 2013, 09:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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thank you cmtuner!

I've looked at that thread so many times, and am JUST NOW seeing the colors for the power/amp turn on/etc to the amp.
I didnt notice that before....
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Old August 6th, 2013, 09:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Haha no problem, any more questions or need help let me know
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Old August 6th, 2013, 09:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Haha no problem, any more questions or need help let me know
PM'd
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Old August 6th, 2013, 10:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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PM'd
I didn't receive anything...
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Old August 6th, 2013, 10:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Ok received and replied
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Old August 7th, 2013, 01:49 AM   #19 (permalink)
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heres where I'm at...










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Old August 7th, 2013, 01:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Do I have it right?

Whats "Ground"?? Is it pin #5?
do I have the constant and ignition right?

which wire is what, on the other harness?
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:02 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Ok ground is pin 4, 11, and 12
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
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This will help some

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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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This too
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:24 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Ok here you go
Pins
1. Grey W/red stripe- right side sub
2. Grey wire -left side sub
3. Not used
4. Black wire -ground
5. Red W/green stripe- power
6. Not used
7. White W/red stripe, right door
8. White W/blue stripe, left door
9. Red -right side sub
10. Red W/blue stripe - left side sub
11. Black - ground
12. Black - ground
13. Not used
14. Not used
15. Red W/green stripe- power
16. Red W/green stripe- power
17. Black W/ red stripe- right door
18. Black W/blue stripe- left door

So Basicly for the extra amps you wont use pins
3,6,7,8,13, 14,17,18
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:31 AM   #25 (permalink)
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This too
WoW.
This is way better then the one I have.Thanks!
Where did you get that?


o thats what those little things are.....
I thought they were supposed to be the tweeters. lol

Why 3 gound wires?
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:32 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Ok here you go
Pins
1. Grey W/red stripe- right side sub
2. Grey wire -left side sub
3. Not used
4. Black wire -ground
5. Red W/green stripe- power
6. Not used
7. White W/red stripe, right door
8. White W/blue stripe, left door
9. Red -right side sub
10. Red W/blue stripe - left side sub
11. Black - ground
12. Black - ground
13. Not used
14. Not used
15. Red W/green stripe- power
16. Red W/green stripe- power
17. Black W/ red stripe- right door
18. Black W/blue stripe- left door

So Basicly for the extra amps you wont use pins
3,6,7,8,13, 14,17,18
Thank you!! lol
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:33 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I got it on Tearstone manuals, and I'm still working on the other connecter, that's one is going to be the signal wires from the radio
But for the power wires, pin 5,15, and 16, I would tap into the existing amp for those wires, you can run new grounds, and then of course would have to run your own sub wires
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:48 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I got it on Tearstone manuals, and I'm still working on the other connecter, that's one is going to be the signal wires from the radio
But for the power wires, pin 5,15, and 16, I would tap into the existing amp for those wires, you can run new grounds, and then of course would have to run your own sub wires
o, cool. I think I have an older version of it printed.Thats what I was going off of.
This one is way better though.
I could not find it online or remember the site that I got it from years ago.

??? Tap into the existing "POWER" wires?
are you sure??? Their really really thin.

DO you think it would be ok to tap into them?
Haveing 3 amps running off the 1 little power wire? ( from firewall to battery/igniton at least)


I've always just thought to ALWAYS have a seperate dedicated power wire and ground.
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:53 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The reason I said to tap into it, is because I'm not sure if those are constantly power wires or are the remote signal wires,

If you have a multimeter I would check pins 5, 15, and 16 to see if they have constant power or remote

If they have constant power, then run all new power lines, if they do not, jump off of then
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Old August 7th, 2013, 10:04 AM   #30 (permalink)
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The reason I said to tap into it, is because I'm not sure if those are constantly power wires or are the remote signal wires,

If you have a multimeter I would check pins 5, 15, and 16 to see if they have constant power or remote

If they have constant power, then run all new power lines, if they do not, jump off of then

o I see.

ok, I would have to have the battery connected though to test that , right?
( possibly getting the e-comm error if I dissconnect that plug to test the wires? with the batt hooked up..)

I can try to get to the back of the harness, and keep it plugged in, and just stick the tester tips in the back of the pins/ where the wires go in.

1 wire HAS to be a remote/ignition wire.... right?

otherwise the amp would ALWAYS have power?
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Old August 7th, 2013, 10:19 AM   #31 (permalink)
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o I see.

ok, I would have to have the battery connected though to test that , right?
( possibly getting the e-comm error if I dissconnect that plug to test the wires? with the batt hooked up..)

I can try to get to the back of the harness, and keep it plugged in, and just stick the tester tips in the back of the pins/ where the wires go in.

1 wire HAS to be a remote/ignition wire.... right?

otherwise the amp would ALWAYS have power?
Well if it's like a aftermarket amp, it will have constant power, then one remote signal wire, that turns it on,

And to test it to see if it has constant power is just get to the amp with everything still plugged into it, have the car turned off, and just stick the prong into the back of the pins and see, If ya hit 12 volts ya have constant power
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Old August 7th, 2013, 10:35 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cmturner View Post
Well if it's like a aftermarket amp, it will have constant power, then one remote signal wire, that turns it on,

And to test it to see if it has constant power is just get to the amp with everything still plugged into it, have the car turned off, and just stick the prong into the back of the pins and see, If ya hit 12 volts ya have constant power
ok, thanks man.
I'll check it out.
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:27 PM   #33 (permalink)
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What a mess of wires Rockford sure made here. Mitsubishi's wiring schematics are like the biggest piles of crap I've ever had to look at in my life, normally this is cake work for me. The 5,15,16 all seem to come from the exact same + power source, switched or not, to be determined. If it's constant, I would maybe eyeball the odd "pink" wire on number 22 as "maybe" the remote turn on. It seems to be the only other wire that's running by itself in the middle.
You still need to hook up all the speaker input wires into this amp, which isn't even listed, so the amp will play the sub properly. It looks like a super huge mess without good schematics to get this going. The lousy schematics and wiring scenario's lingering on here, and other websites is also extremely incomplete. Do they have some kind of patent or something on keeping the wiring of this setup a secret?
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Old August 7th, 2013, 09:33 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I agree the wiring schematics for the eclipse suck,
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Old August 7th, 2013, 11:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Porcupinepuffer View Post
What a mess of wires Rockford sure made here. Mitsubishi's wiring schematics are like the biggest piles of crap I've ever had to look at in my life, normally this is cake work for me. The 5,15,16 all seem to come from the exact same + power source, switched or not, to be determined. If it's constant, I would maybe eyeball the odd "pink" wire on number 22 as "maybe" the remote turn on. It seems to be the only other wire that's running by itself in the middle.
You still need to hook up all the speaker input wires into this amp, which isn't even listed, so the amp will play the sub properly. It looks like a super huge mess without good schematics to get this going. The lousy schematics and wiring scenario's lingering on here, and other websites is also extremely incomplete. Do they have some kind of patent or something on keeping the wiring of this setup a secret?
Thank you for the input! : )

yes, I know. Its deff going to be a project.

thats what I thought, their all comeing from the same place.
theres no ignition/switched wire....

and 3 ground wires??? ( maybe cause there so thin?)

patent? I'm not sure, but I'm sure they dont recomend it.(adding stock amps) since all the wires in to the system are sooo thin to begin with.

the wires to the sub are the biggest guage...???

the wires to the other harness, which i'm assumeing control the audio controls for the amp,or "IN's".. bass/trebble/etc... are EVEN THINNER guage wires.
I'm worried when I tap into them they will be very brittle/weak.

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Old August 8th, 2013, 05:49 PM   #36 (permalink)
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well, I found this online.....

Audiovox lists:
#513451: 2007 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 2DR COUPE WITH AMPLIFIED AUDIO SYSTEM
Audio/Mobile Video
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED/WHITE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accesory BLUE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Ground
THIS VEHICLE GROUND THROUGH THE RADIO CHASSIS
Illumination GREEN/WHITE (+) RADIO HARNESS
4
Power Antenna PINK (+) RADIO HARNESS
3
Amp Turn On
THIS VEHICLE USES DATA FOR THE AMPLIFIER TURN ON
LR Speaker (+) YELLOW/BLUE
THESE SPEAKERS ARE POWERED BY THE RADIO, FOR SPEAKERS POWERED BY THE AMPLIFIER SEE AMPLIFIER INFORMATION
LR Speaker (-) GRAY/BLUE
RR Speaker (+) YELLOW/GREEN
RR Speaker (-) WHITE
Amp Location BEHIND GLOVEBOX HIGH IN PASSENGER KICKPANEL
THE AMPLIFIER POWERS THE FRONT DOORS AS WELL AS THE SUBWOOFER
Steering Cntrls OPTIONAL
Radio Security YES
Security
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH




HARNESS
All Door Trigger
USE EACH DOOR TRIGGER AND DIODE ISOLATE EACH WIRE
Domelight Super GREEN/ORANGE (-) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
LF Latch LIGHT GREEN (-) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
RF Latch YELLOW (-) IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE
ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE IS PART OF THE VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Trunk Trigger RED/YELLOW (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX
Alarm Disarm RED/GREEN (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX, THIS WIRE WILL ALSO UNLOCK THE DOORS WITH A DOUBLE PULSE
Alarm Arm LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX, THIS WIRE WILL ALSO LOCK THE DOORS
Parking Lights GREEN/WHITE (+) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Convenience
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo ORANGE/BLUE & WHITE/RED (+) AT EACH HEADLIGHT
All Hazrd Lights GREEN/YELLOW (-) AT HAZARD SWITCH
Wipers-Lo BLUE/ORANGE (+) AT VEHICLE WIPER MOTOR
Wipers-Hi BLUE/RED (+) AT VEHICLE WIPER MOTOR
Parking Brake YELLOW/GREEN (-) AT PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
Trnk Release WHITE (REV) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 2 BLUE/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type UNIVERSAL IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense BLUE/RED (OPEN) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
WIRE RESTS AT (-) UNTIL KEY IS PUT IN IGNITION
Tachometer YELLOW/BLUE (AC) AT FUEL INJECTOR #1
ALSO YELLOW/RED AT INJECTOR #2
Speed Sense YELLOW/BLACK (AC) AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE IS LOCATED IN THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON THE DRIVER SIDE
Parking Lights GREEN/WHITE (+) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Brake Lights GREEN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights RED/BLUE (+) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
Horn LIGHT GREEN (-) IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX
Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Please select another category
Doorlocks/Windows
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Power Unlock LIGHT GREEN/RED (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX
PowerLock VIOLET OR VIOLET/WHITE (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL
ALSO LOCATED IN ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE THAT IS PART OF THE FUSE BOX, WIRE IS VIOLET/WHITE AT ELECTRONIC TIME & ALARM CONTROL SYSTEM MODULE
Driver Mtr Unlock BLUE/BLACK (REV) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Driver Mtr Lock BLUE/RED (REV) AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Sunroof Open GREEN/RED (-) AT SUNROOF CONTROL SWITCH
Sunroof Close GREEN/YELLOW (-) AT SUNROOF CONTROL SWITCH

Note: Audiovox makes no representation or warranty with respect to the above information including its accuracy, completeness, or its freedom from third parties' proprietary rights. Audiovox disclaims all liability or responsibility for errors or omissions therein or any decision made by the recipient in reliance thereon. The installer must verify any circuitry with the proper test equipment prior to installation.
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Old August 8th, 2013, 05:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Wow lol, nice find
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Old August 8th, 2013, 05:55 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Thanks!
it dosent help much, but it shows the 3 power wires....


It might help other members with other things though....

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Old August 8th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Yup. I've seen that audiovox list on the 12volt.com website. It looks so nice and fancy until you find out 90% of that wiring is half the wiring of the rest of the car, and not the stereo. But it does offer a little bit of extra help. Not much.
In terms of amp wiring size. It seems it must combine power from the 3 wires to give it some sort of substantial power handling. But even then, it's only 75w rms for this sub? So they're not monstrously powerful amps in the first place.
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Old August 10th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #40 (permalink)
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a little update.
took a break from the wireing for now, trying to finish up the trunk.

custom mounting bracket ( sanded,primed,painted black & clearcoated)


I went with my own bracket cause I wasnt able to find the OEM ones fast enough, and after looking at it, if I went with OEM brackets, I'd have to cut them anyways, to get the spare tire out.
See how close it is to the spare tire. The spare tire just BARELY sneeks past it.

+ 1 sub


+ 2 sub


its kinda hard to see in the pics, but the 3rd sub is not perfectly straight, its slightly crooked, because of the metal frame of the car. So its made some of my holes off, but its ok, I'll make new holes when I go to actually mount it all.
it will straighten out a little more when I move the OEM sub wies, they were kinda in the way, but I didnt want to disconnect yet.



I also had to shave all the extra plastic off the side of the 3rd sub, to get it to sit flat, and not on the plastic rear side panel .

Last edited by ryguy; August 10th, 2013 at 03:24 PM.
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