|TECH: Audio FAQ|
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|June 27th, 2007, 09:26 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada.
Vehicle: 06 Audi A4 2.0T
TECH: Audio FAQ
Here are some FAQ's relating to the Audio system in the 4G. I know there are more and I will be updating this as information is available.
The stock Head Unit is manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric in Japan ( Thanks ajiuo for this information)
There are two harnesses on the back of the radio. The white one is the main harness the black one sends info the the display above.
Here is a Diagram of the main factory harness (white one)
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 _ 9 10 11 12 13
Here is what each pin is.
1 Right Rear Speaker Positive
2 Left Rear Speaker Positive
3 Power Antenna (which we don't have)
4 Illumination Dash Light
5 Left front Speaker Positive
6 Right front Speaker Positive
7 Right Rear Speaker Negative
8 Left Rear Speaker Negative
9 Switched Power
10 Constant Power
12 Left Front Speaker Negative
13 Right Front Speaker Negative
Thanks to BONES for the following info on the NON-ROCKFORD system. These are the Speaker wire colors at the speakers for the front door and rear speakers.
Front Left +: White w/Blue Stripe
Front Left -: Black w/Blue Stripe
Front Right +: White w/Red Stripe
Front Right -: Black w/Red Stripe
Rear Left +: Yellow w/Blue Stripe
Rear Left -: Grey
Rear Right +: Yellow w/Green Stripe
Rear Right -: White
Currently there is no function for the AUX input on the RF head unit. Once something is available I will post it here.
Also note you can access the Aux mode without the steering wheel by holding the CD button down for more then 3 seconds. ( Thanks ajiuo for this information)
When playing MP3 Discs the only information displayed is the folder number and the track number.
It is very Easy to install an amplifier into the new 4G Eclipse. The Power wire can be routed in two ways.
1. You can use a factory grommet that is located inside the fenderwell area. Remove the drives side tire. Next remove the fender well liner. Now you can run your power wire from your battery into the fender area then to
the access grommet and into the floorboard area of the car. (30 min)
2. There is a nice open area that is just above the brake pedal. Using a step drill or a drill bit about 1/16" larger that the grommet you plan to install drill through your firewall. Check both sides to make sure you are clear of
anything you don't want drilled. Then install your grommet and run you power wire right inside the drivers side foot well. (10 min)
Please don't attempt any of this if you are not familiar with using drill's or installing an amplifier. Also if you would like further assistance please contact me.
As of now the easiest and least expensive way to play your IPOD/MP3 player through your factory system is with an FM Modulator. Currently nobody offers an IPOD solution for the 4G Eclipse. There is however another way to
play your IPOD through your stereo. It involves a JL Audio Cleansweep. What this does is take the factory signal and smooth out any EQ curves your factory system has and then applies it's own DPS with 30 band 4 channel
equalizer to allow your factory Head Unit to work with after market amps without any loss. It converts the factory analog signal to a 24-bit Digital one. As an added bonus you have the ability to have an AUX input for your IPOD or
XM/Sirius Radio. Also being released is an AUX switcher that will expand that input to 3 AUX inputs for even more flexibility. This unit is easy to install and for around $350.00 will give your factory radio all the benefits of an
after market radio.
Currently an FM modulator is the only way of adding satellite radio to the 4G, but this should change in the future and once I have any news I will post it here. Also see IPOD above for options on adding an AUX input to the 4G.
The factory RF System is a 9 speaker system that is made up of the following.
Front dash: 1" Tweeters
Front doors: 6.5" Midbass speakers
Rear side: 6.5" 2-way speakers
Trunk: 10" 150watt dual 2 ohm Rockford Subwoofer.
There have been a lot of questions about certain things still working when you replace you stock radio. Here is the answer. YES.
Just about any feature that comes with a factory radio can be retained when you change to an after market radio. Just about any specialty shop can retain any feature you want. From the factory sub or the steering wheel controls.
*Original Post by blk4g*
2006 Audi A4 quattro.
|May 12th, 2008, 11:36 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bear, DE
Vehicle: 2008 Eclipse GT 6-spd
Steering wheel controls can be restored after installing an aftermarket headunit by use of a SWI or Steering Wheel Interface unit. I installed one on in my previous 3G but since selling it and buying my 4G I have yet to make any audio changes. But check out Pac-Audio.com, their SWI units come with install instructions for pretty much all make and model automobiles.
Forgot to add, Crutchfield carries pretty much every SWI that PAC makes, so just input your car and headunit and it will show you the way.
Last edited by morbiddk; May 13th, 2008 at 12:02 AM.
|July 11th, 2008, 03:36 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: DC Metro Area
Vehicle: '08 Spyder GT Rave Red
1. Metra wiring harness (7002 I believe) will allow you to retain all existing factory speakers and run them off the new head unit. Realistically, depending on what multiplier RF used between RMS and max (aftermarket usually go about 2:1 max:RMS but cheaper/factory stuff isn't uncommonly pushed at 4:1), you'll have roughly the same RMS to each speaker (20-25W RMS).
2. Running new speakerwire to the doors/tweets and then to the appropriate wires in the harness (messy/unnecessary)
3. Add a 4-channel amp, replace the POS speakers our car came with, run fresh wire, and begin audio-orgasm. (Guess which option I'm prepping for)
1. Find the CHEAPEST, WEAKEST mono-amp you can and run that to the factory sub (it's about 50-70W RMS @ 2Ohms, so good luck) and don't max your volume.
2. Replace the factory sub and run an aftermarket amplifier to it at the proper Wattage. For the Spyder, known fits now include:
Polk Momo MM2084 (J-Rod has done this)
JL Audio 8w6 (WOOHOO!! Me)
The motor for the top is behind the subwoofer so it limits the depth (Sorry, no 8w7 or Kicker L7 8") - but it appears as though anything with a mount-depth of 4 1/2" or less will work. Beyond that depth is unknown/untested at this time.
NOTE: The 8w6 sounds a little better (probably placebo effect) than the RF 8" with the factory amp. The key to this is that, by replacing the sub w/ an aftermarket one, you are now ready to change out the head unit later and only need to find a matching amp for the subwoofer without fear of blowing your sub.
3. Use speaker option #3 (4-channel amp and fresh wiring), and then run the 2 rear outputs off of the *aftermarket headunit* in parallel to the subwoofer and this will give you 40-50W RMS +/-, which is about on-par with the factor specs.
NOTE: I have not tried nor known anyone to try this option, but I've talked to folks who have done similar in other vehicles w/ factory-subs, so don't shoot me if it doesn't work.
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