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8K views 132 replies 9 participants last post by  Mauricio 
#1 ·
Hey guys i just bought an HID kit from a company called Zenon Conversions. The kits msrp at $300 but they were doing a sale for $150 shipped. The kit is full plug and play no splicing required at all and comes w/ a lifetime warranty against all manfucatuers defects. I had the kit for 3 months now and i decided to pick up a few extra kits just to get em out to my fellow 4gers. I'm selling them at $150 shipped plus insurance and pp fee which comes out to 159.66. Here are some pics of the HID's







in my 3g
 
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#64 ·
hey man i got H1s... so i got out pretty damn lucky... i wanted to warn you that i have a buddy of mine that also purchased HIDs from a creditable site Pilothid.com and they promised plug and play... well if im telling you about him then you can guess how his turned out... he had to splice as well... goodluck in whatever you deside... sorry i could help but if you need to know how to take off your front or rear lights... or your front or rear bumper just hit me up... oh before i get outta here what does "break yourself fool" mean?
 
#70 ·
I looked over the photos and what I can tell is the HID kit you got is just two wire so there is no hi-beam option. Most newer kits are including a seperate halogen bulb with the HID bulb so when you hit your hi-beams you still have light. They are doing this now because it's illegal to not have any hi-beam option. This is why your stock harness has 3 connectors, one is hi, one is low, and the middle connector is ground.

What you need to do is determine which of the outside connectors is the low beam. Once you do you will have to connect your HID red wire to that and the black wire to the center connector.

I am putting female bullet connectors on the wires coming out of the stock bulb connector that I'm not using because of the HID's. I'm also putting female bullets on the wires going to the ballast. Then I put male bullets on the stock headlight wires I cut from the stock bulb connector.

The end result is I can disconnect my bullet connections to remove the HID kit and reconnect my stock bulb socket using the same bullet connections.

I think the problem with most of these is the pins on their connectors are actually for a 9006 bulb, not the H13 (9008) that fit our cars. I verified this at my local auto store and the pins in the H13 bulb are very narrow, almost a straight pin.
 
#71 ·
yeah i know i connected everything i found the two wires positive and negative, and they work fine the bulbs light up nice and blue i have no problems there but neways i still got to splice my cables which i aint goin to do!! if i have to go back to stock i will but i know there is a clompletly plug and play kit out there!!
 
#72 ·
there is no plug and play kit out there for an h13. no company makes an adpater yet and haven't soince the h13 bulb was released in 2003. There is a way to do it w/o cutting and splicing. U have to cut the ballast wire plug that is supposed to plug into the stock harness this way ur left w/ ur red and black wires.... now take a test lite to ur stock harness find out which one is your brights and which one is your lows when u figure that out since u have 3 pllugs that last wires will be ur negative. I'm going to send an electrical fitting that u just overlay the postive wire off the HID to the low beam on snap the connection to togeteher. This way it makes a connection w/o
"T" ing the wires and u can always go back to stock
 
#76 ·
Joe,
I wouldn't use those snap on wire splice connectors. They don't make complete contact with the wire so the current draw of the lights will have a lot of resistance at that point, which will lead to burnt wires or worst yet, a fire. If you use them they may last for a while but at some point it will burn.

The snap on splice peirces the plastic insulator and touches the wire inside. If it did any more than just touching the wire it would cut the wire.

You can only use those snap on splicers for low current draw applications like for a radar detector or something similar. The HID's draw 35W so while it's less than the halogens it's still a good bit of current. What ever connector you use it needs to make complete contact with the wire.

If you use the bullets you can switch out anytime you want pretty easy.
 
#80 ·
Yeah, I wouldn't hold that against him. I bought mine from Auto City Imports and while I had the same connection problem it didn't bother me because I would rather have the wires set up with bullets anyway.

If I could locate an H13 male connector I could make my own harness. I though about buying a cheap H13 bulb and open up the bulb end to splice into the internal wires and connect them to the HID harness. That would be the perfect solution and be trouble free.
 
#82 ·
that could work..... if marucio is wiling to try that i will buy the h13 bublbs remove the bulb and send him the 2 h13 harness this way he has to just cut a splice the HID harness not his stock harness. If he was willing to try it then i would be willing to do it for him asap.
 
#83 ·
The best part about using an existing H13 bulb is I can solder the connections and heat shrink them so they're air and water tight.
 
#88 ·
Hey i wanna know who else bought HIDs form this guy... he hasnt been replying to my messages and shit and i got his HIDs here, and hes been signing on every day in here, i donno what the hell ima goin to do... Joe comeon man i tought u werent gonna be like this bro...
 
#89 ·
mauricio... man im sorry bro... after anybody reads this thread no one else will buy HIDs from him no matter how smooth my H1s were... if he just dumps all response on a customer just looks REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY Bad!!!
 
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