|HOW TO: Replace Timing Belt/Water Pump 6G75/Eclipse GT|
|Do It Yourself Guides (Howto) HowTos, Technical Data and Documentation for the 4G Eclipse|
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|October 21st, 2016, 07:42 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: St. Louis, MO
Vehicle: 2009 Eclipse GT
HOW TO: Replace Timing Belt/Water Pump 6G75/Eclipse GT
I'm surprised a how to for this hasn't been posted for this yet, so I thought I'd compile all the info out there together into one place for anyone who's wanting to give this a shot themselves. It's not hard, just takes some attention to detail and if you don't understand what this guide talks about, don't bother because you don't want your engine to get off on timing - $700 for a timing belt and water pump at a shop beats $3k+ for a new engine or rebuild if you mess this up.
I replaced my drive belts, water pump, timing belt, auto-tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley all at once. You had might as well since you're in the area anyways, especially since they're not expensive.
I didn't take any pictures myself, but I've included pictures of the diagrams, which are more helpful anyways (in my opinion) because they have the torque values included. I also left a link to the video I found for this at the bottom of the guide as well. It's where most of this procedure comes from, just altered slightly to make things easier since we don't have all the space an Endeavor has.
1. Set vehicle on jack stands, disconnect battery
2. Support the engine on a jack (use a block of wood to protect the engine from damage)
3. Remove passenger side wheel and wheel well splash guard
4. Remove nuts/washers securing the power steering fluid reservoir to the frame (this just makes things easier to work around, not totally necessary)
5. Remove engine mounting stay
* The notch on the crankshaft pulley is on the inner edge, you have to look down from the top to see it *8. Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt
* You'll need something to hold the pulley in place here if you're not using an impact wrench - there's a special Mitsubishi tool for it, or you can make your own like some threads on here*9. Loosen the generator/AC belt tensioner pulley adjusting bolt, then the locking nut (the adjusting bolt is underneath the pulley, just in front of the oil filter)
11. Loosen the power steering belt tensioner locking nut, then the adjusting bolt
13. Remove crankshaft pulley
14. Remove passenger engine mount
16. Remove engine support bracket
* This bracket just barely squeezes in, you'll have to loosen all the bolts and pull the bracket out with the bolts still in it in order to get it out *17. Remove power steering drive belt tensioner pulley and bracket
* Be careful with the crankshaft position sensor coming from the cover *19. Immobilize both camshaft sprockets somehow (I just used some paracord tie through the sprockets and timing belt cover bolt holes)
20. Mark the current timing belt at the TDC markings on the sprockets and the direction of rotation
21. Remove the crankshaft position sensor (I just laid the sensor and wire over the engine, you don't have to remove it completely, just be careful with it)
24. Remove timing belt
25. Remove tensioner pulley
26. Remove timing belt auto tensioner
27. Remove timing belt idler pulley
28. Ensure that the coolant is drained as much as possible from the engine and radiator - you won't get it all, but it's better than a complete waterfall
29. Remove water pump assembly from engine
* Don't dispose of this assembly, it's two pieces and you need to install the housing that sits in between the engine and pump on the new pump, there's 4 smaller bolts holding the two together *30. Disassemble water pump assembly
1. Assemble the water pump assembly (new pump + housing removed from old pump), ensure there is a gasket between the pump and housing
2. Install the water pump assembly onto the engine, ensuring there is a gasket between the engine and assembly
* Note: The torque values are different for the M10 and M8 bolts, see the diagram *3. Install new idler pulley
4. Install new timing belt auto tensioner
* Leave the setting pin in the tensioner for now *5. Install new timing belt tensioner pulley, with the two smaller holes towards the ground, contrary to the diagram. Don't torque the bolt yet.
6. Install new timing belt according to the markings in this order:
1) Crankshaft Sprocket* The next steps are critical, if you don't have proper tension on the timing belt, it will likely slip or break prematurely, causing severe damage to the engine *
7. Set the correct tension on the belt by pushing the tensioner pulley against it. This can be done using the special tool designed to fit into the two small holes, as shown in the diagram. You can also wedge something between the pulley and the tensioner arm to set the tension on the belt (ensure it will not mar the pulley, which could damage the belt later). I used the small pry bar from the OEM spare tire equipment with a cloth between it and the pulley. If using the special tool, ensure the torque shown is 39 in-lbs. If not, ensure that the setting pin can be spun around freely in the pin hole.
* Do not half ass this end result of the pin spinning freely/39 in-lbs *8. While holding the tensioner pulley in place, apply the proper torque to the tensioner pulley bolt
9. Once proper torque is applied to the pulley bolt, ensure that the pin still spins freely in the auto tensioner. If it doesn't, the tension on the belt is incorrect and you must redo the previous two steps.
10. Remove you used to immobilize the camshaft sprockets
11. Rotate the crankshaft to ensure that the timing marks match up still (the belt marks may not match up to the sprockets after several turns, this is okay, as long as the marks on the sprockets all come to the marks on the engine at the same time)
12. After rotating the crankshaft, ensure the auto tensioner pin still spins freely
13. Remove the auto tensioner setting pin
14. Reinstall the crankshaft position sensor
* Do not torque the pulley locking nut or adjusting bolt yet *17. Reinstall engine support bracket
* Do not torque the adjusting bolt or locking nut yet *19. Reinstall crankshaft pulley. Ensure the bolt receives a light coating of engine oil before installation. You'll need something to hold the pulley in place again as well. The torque on this bolt is 136 ft-lbs.
20. Reinstall upper timing belt covers
23. Apply proper tension to the belt using the procedure in the factory service manual, then torque the tensioner pulley locking nut to 36 +/- 7 ft-lbs.
24. Install generator/AC drive belt, tighten tensioner pulley locking nut (do not torque yet)
25. Apply proper tension to the belt using the procedure in the factory service manual, then torque the tensioner pulley locking nut to 36 +/- 7 ft-lbs.
26. Reinstall engine mounting stay
29. Remove vehicle from jacks, reconnect battery
30. Refill coolant and burp it
31. Perform the ECU reset procedures
If you set the tension on the belt right, applied the proper torque to all the fasteners, and made sure the timing marks lined up at all times during this procedure, you should be fine. If not, I'm not a professional automobile mechanic, so I'm not liable for any damages. This is merely what I did. Here's the link to the video I got the general idea of how to do this from:
Good luck, hopefully this saves you a few hundred dollars!
2009 Solar Yellow GT | Injen Cold Air Intake | BC BR Coilovers | Hackish Reflash
Ralliart Eyelids | StopTech X-Drilled Rotors
Last edited by Wwwyzzrdd; October 21st, 2016 at 08:00 PM.
|eclipse, eclipse gt, engine, install, installation, mitsubishi, video|
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