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Old March 17th, 2013, 07:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Quaife LSD install 6spd

LSD install How to. I think I have to rate this at a 10 out of 10 for difficulty. Only attempt this if your cofident in what your doing.

Disclaimer. This is a guide only. I take no responsibility if your not able to reassemble your transmission.

This is a how to on the LSD install only. I want to keep this as simple and short as I can.
So transmission removal isnt inluded. I can write another how to on the removal if requested. I'm sure that can be found somewhere else on the site.

(Tools required)
Snap ring pliers
channel lock pliers or massive allen key
Metric allen keys
roll pin punch (I used a T handle allen key)
Slot screwdrivers
Bearing press tools and shop press
Metric socket set
Impact Gun and sockets

(Materials required)
Red lock tite
Transmission sealent
Scotch brite cleaning pads
Quaife LSD

So this is where we will start. Your 6speed sitting on the ground. With nothing bolted on it.



First remove the clutch slave cylinder and line. Slide a flat screwdriver under the clip to pull it up and remove the line. Then remove the slave cylinder/bearing.



If you can remove the speed sensor on the top back of the transmission by removing the bolt and pulling it out.
Mine was stuck in. It can be left in but it increases the chance you can damage the gear during re assembly.



Now remove the 5 12mm bolts inside the clutch housing. These bolts hole the two housings together.



Now roll the transmission over on its bell housing. Most of the work can be done from this position. Remove the rest of the bolts holding the two halfes together.

Below the shift linkage location you will see several bolts. The top one on the left side of the picture is the reverse sensor port. (one with two wires)
To the right of that one and large one below that are to help with linkage movement. (spring and ball)
The small one is the gate pin.
Remove all these.



You also need to remove the reverse gear bearing locking pin bolt. Its below the gate pin hole on a slight angle. You can just see the edge of it in the picture, allready removed.



Now you can remove the shift linkages and the 4 bolts holding that plate on.



Removing the shift linkage. Pry the plate lose. Pull it up about an inch. Then away from transmission. towards what would be the front of the car. Then the rest of the way up out.



Now remove the plug on the end of the transmission.



Below this you will find two snap rings. With your snap ring pliers go back and forth between the two untill both shafts drop down slightly.



Now you can split the case. There is a spot on the top of the transmission to start it. Slowly work your way around.



Now youve seperated your trasnmission. You should be looking at this.





As you can see the differential is barried under the gear stacks. So we have to remove all the gear stacks and linkages to remove the diff.

Remove the 4 spring and ball's that allow for proper shift linkage movement.

Two are located on the top of the transmission. One is located on the bottom of the transmission and one at 90deg to that one.
remove the plug. If you cant pull the ball, spring and guide out dont worry about it at this point. If fact the dont really have to be totally removed.
You only need to make sure the ball doesnt fall down the linkage shaft hole. The linkage wont move properly if it does.





Remove the two bolts holding this plate. Remove plate and put to the side.



Remove this bolt from the shift fork and remove the shaft.



As well as this one holding this shift fork on the right of the screen. And the one next to it. 3 bolts holding shift forks in total.



The linkages, shift forks and gear stacks can be removed on the bottom of the transmission. The transmission should now look like this.

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Last edited by fabguy; March 17th, 2013 at 07:31 PM.
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Old March 17th, 2013, 07:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The last two shift linkages or gear stacks can not be removed without driving out two roll pins. I just used a T handle allen key.
This roll pin and the one pictured directly above it.



This E clip also needs to be remmoved so all the linkages can be removed.



Now that shift linkage on the left can be remove as well. along with the last two gear stacks.



You should be left with a pile of parts that looks like this.



And nothing but the diff left in the case. If you where able to remove your speed sensor than just pull the diff out.
If you cant be gentle pulling your diff out. The speed gears are plastic.



Use an impact gun to spin off the bolts holding the ring gear on.
Hold the gear in your hand lift the stock diff slightly off the ground. Gently tap the diff on the ground and the ring gear will gently fall off in your hands. Only took one tap.



I tried to pull the gear with my pullers but it wasnt working that well. My pullers are not quite the correct type. Its ok for me I wasnt planning on reusing them anyway.



I dont have any pictures of pressing the new bearing on or out of the case. I didnt have the extra hands.

Using red lock tite install the ring gear on the LSD. And torque them. Some extra hands will help doing this. Gently drop the diff back into the case.



You now have to check the end play of the differential. Using a few bolts and the other half of the gear case. Bolt the transmission back together with only the Diff installed.
There should be no endplay in the diff. The Factory service manual states there should be 8-22 ft lbs of torque to start just the diff turning.
I used a piece of my original axil to check the movement. I used my calibrated hand to check the starting torque.



Now that your diff is correct. Pull the two halfs back apart and start the reassembly of your transmission.

Re assembly is the same as it came apart except for 7 things.

1) The 4 spring and ball's that where removed go in after the shift linkages have been reinstalled.

2) Lock tite on the 3 bolts holding the 3 shift forks

3) Before putting the case back on pay special attention to the orentation of the top reverse bearing.

The reverse bearing lins up with one of the bolts removed from the outer case. If not lined up properly before case install it cant be easily rotated. It has to be close.

This threaded hole on the bearing.



Must line up with this hole in the case



The bearing lines up here inside



4) Make sure when your putting the case back together this plastic oil gally doesnt fall out of place. I held it in place with one finger until the case halfs where almost touching.



5) The case halfs and sealing surfaces have to be cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. And sealent has to be applied to the mating surfaces and all plugs.



6) Once youve placed the case together as much as you can. Go back to the snap rings and open them up. You will not be able to get these snap rings 100% into place.
But it will allow you to close the transmission case. Once you get the case closed up with a few bolts. Lay it down again. Give the input shaft a push.
Listen for the click as the snap rings fall into place. And varify they did fall into place. Now you can compleate closing up the tranny.



7) Before installing the final shift linkage rod make sure all the shift forks are lined up. And sealent on the mating surfaces.





Now your tranny is ready to reinstall

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Last edited by fabguy; March 17th, 2013 at 09:12 PM.
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Old March 17th, 2013, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I hope this helps members at least decide weather they want to attempt this awsome mod on their own, or pay a shop.

Sorry for any spelling or errors in the write up.
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Old March 17th, 2013, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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OceanStateTuning has a spectacular aura about
Just did ours yesterday, was not fun lol but if you have an extra hand it probably would make it much easier
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Old March 17th, 2013, 09:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OceanStateTuning View Post
Just did ours yesterday, was not fun lol but if you have an extra hand it probably would make it much easier
How did you find the install? Other than not fun LOL. I agree.

Did I miss anything in my explanation?
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Old March 17th, 2013, 09:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good write up man.
Ya,I was thinking of getting a shop to put mine in,because I will eventually get this mod,but this just confirmed it. Haha!
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Old March 17th, 2013, 10:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Question fabguy.
How is the LSD when it comes to snow or ice compared to the oem? Is it better or worse? Is this a mod more for tracking or do you think you will still feel a big difference in a daily driver? Does anything change with the tcl on our cars,or is it business as usual?
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Old March 17th, 2013, 10:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Okay I just drove his car today on salt covered roads and let me tell you that wow, with the lsd this thing was a god damn beast. I never knew the 4g could handle so well. There wasn't any snow or ice but even on gravel it was incredible. I knew the lsd would be worth the money but driving his car today sold me on it.
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Old March 18th, 2013, 02:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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the LSD takes some getting used to on ice and snow...normally with an open diff, if you lose traction in one wheel you get zero power to the other wheel, and as you know a wheel with no power is rolling at the same speed as the car, so that one wheel will allow you to turn even if the other wheel is just kicking snow. now with the LSD in snow and on ice, if you lose traction in both wheels, this means you can plow forward in a straight line with the steering wheel at full lock...don't let this deter you though, as with some throttle control you can have better acceleration and handling in slippery conditions as well, you just need to get a feel for it, and learning the difference is not too bad, just takes some practice. if one wheel is on ice/snow, and the other wheel is on pavement though, you can keep on truckin' if only the edge of the road has some snow or ice built up, as long as the driver side has traction, that's one situation where the LSD makes a big difference as well. snow/ice related understeer, once you get used to it is easily compensated for and is a lot of fun!

on dry roads however, no holds barred, an ATB LSD is a god send, and anyone who can afford it should have one...

good write up on the install...the GS (or Ralliart Lancer in my case) transmission is a little bit easier to disassemble, but that doesn't look too bad...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; March 18th, 2013 at 02:32 AM.
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Old March 18th, 2013, 08:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Good info there cranswick,thanks for that.
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Old March 18th, 2013, 08:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thank you 08cranswick, you have it right. You just have to get used to it. And use the throttle to steer the car. It's better in all seasons.
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Old March 18th, 2013, 12:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow this is a awesome how too glad you put it up for the community.
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Old March 18th, 2013, 04:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That looks fucking crazy! Has anyone paid to have this done? What does it cost?
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Old March 18th, 2013, 04:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Here's a video i made last winter, a month or so prior to turbocharging the motor...

for a really good display of the LSD in action, skip to 1:40 or 3:10...

***No hand/e-brake braking was used during the making of this video***

anyone who drives a FWD in snow knows you can't normally make tight turns like this at with that much throttle...


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Old March 19th, 2013, 01:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I just did the GS install a cpl weeks ago. There are a cpl less steps for the 5 speed. Only one ring holds the housing/gears together, but the seal that covers the snap ring is not re-usable. Once the housing is apart there are three bolts at the base of the input shaft take those out, and the whole gear assembly lifts out. I took the diff to a machine shop to have the bearings and speedo gear pressed on.

Driving with it has been pretty badass! Kinda weird making a hard right and feeling the drivers side tire driving you through it.
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Old March 19th, 2013, 10:31 AM   #16 (permalink)
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yeah, it's weird cause sometimes it works too good and you oversteer, lol...
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Old September 6th, 2013, 10:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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whats the part number or the GT quaife?
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454whp 520Ftlbs 175whp shot untuned.
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Old September 6th, 2013, 11:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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QUAIFE QDH15B: Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2006+

Quaife Differential LSD Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 | eBay
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Old September 7th, 2013, 10:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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QUAIFE QDH15B: Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2006+

Quaife Differential LSD Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 | eBay
I saw that one. Just wasnt sure if its real cause of such good price! I might pull the trigger on it
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- it may ruin me financially, get me divorced, and who knows what else, but I WILL get this build done some day

454whp 520Ftlbs 175whp shot untuned.
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Old September 7th, 2013, 10:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I saw that one. Just wasnt sure if its real cause of such good price! I might pull the trigger on it
I paid $350 for mine, unused and still wrapped, you want to see skeptical? lol, I took a chance on it, and came out on top...$8-900 is the normal price for these NIB...some of these online shops charge ~$1200, and that's robbery...
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Old September 7th, 2013, 10:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yeah I figured cause most of them were 1200. I ordered it
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- it may ruin me financially, get me divorced, and who knows what else, but I WILL get this build done some day

454whp 520Ftlbs 175whp shot untuned.
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Old September 28th, 2014, 06:51 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Where'd the pics go?
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Old September 28th, 2014, 06:52 AM   #23 (permalink)
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And this should be sticky at the top(if you get the pics back)
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Old November 10th, 2014, 10:18 AM   #24 (permalink)
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just one question do you guys have to replace the odometer unit or just the stock one after install the LSD ..
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Old November 10th, 2014, 11:52 AM   #25 (permalink)
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The odometer / speedometer unit can stay. But getting the plastic ring off the diff is difficult without breaking it. So it should be replaced. It's inexpensive from the dealer.
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Old November 21st, 2014, 11:56 AM   #26 (permalink)
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hey can I ask u this .. after u install the clutch and the LSD do you clutch paddle is loose when u step in to it ,,,cuz my felt light and loose ....thank for in for ..
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Old November 21st, 2014, 02:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Might want to re bleed your clutch
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Old November 21st, 2014, 03:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Might want to re bleed your clutch
just got my car back from the shop / got my Clutch and LSD done now my paddle feel soft and the tension is light ,,, scary to mess it up the clutch ..or some bad happen ...
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Old November 21st, 2014, 08:45 PM   #29 (permalink)
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+1 for keep bleeding...
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Old June 30th, 2015, 02:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
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It shouldn't feel loose AF like Madonna....
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Old June 30th, 2015, 02:48 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Hopefully some one can upload pics. Nice write up though.
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Old May 15th, 2017, 10:26 AM   #32 (permalink)
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This would help if i could see the picture
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