New Eclipse Build: Need Help

[Freeze7337]

So, I have had my blue 2006 Eclipse GT for a little over a year now. I am very happy with it and i am a regular viewer on Club4G. I want to get into Moding and tuning my eclipse. I am currently seving a deployment in Iraq, and i have a good family friend that has my car and will be doing the wanted work on the car. So far on the car its prety much stock except for Headlight HID kit(blue), Aftermarket wheels w/ low-pro tires. Custom Sound system( 2X Kicker 15" L7's with 2x JL AUdio V2 Amps) and first stages of interior led light kit (blue). ( pics will be uploaded soon ). I would like to increase the power in my car while at the same time not making it a money pit. I have seen alot of osts about beginner modding and etc.. but it seems their is too broad a range on parts. Since i dont really have the time to do the actual homework being here in Iraq, i was looking for some of the more experienced modders/tuners here to actually help me get started. I know of thigns i wold like t do but i also know their is lots of other things i do not know about here is kind of a wishlist of things i would like to have ( very small list as i am not very educated in tuning) if someone could provide links or such it would be a tremendous help.

WISHLIST
Cold-Air
headers
exhaust
Forced induction possibly??

Like i said small list but any insight and info would be very helpful.

[muscles]

Well there's a lot of things you can do to your car to increase its hp. Seeing to the fact you don't want to make it a money pic then i would suggest going N/A before doing any FI So basically get the headers,intake, and full exhaust to start off with, which would increase your ponies quite a bit and might give you the power increase you are looking for. If it is then i would suggest lightening your ride by introducing some CF to the hatch and hood. The closer you get to 3000 pounds the better . Like i said earlier if you like what you feel then go for suspension upgrade such as sway bars, and lowering springs/ coil-overs. I am sure joeyb will hit this thread up and give his .02 on the supercharger for the gt which may sway your opinion from N/A to FI which would definitely be understandable cause his whip is sick. lol

[Daxenth]

well. if your gonna Fi it will be a bit of coin.. if you wanna spray your going to need the bolt ons which will still cost a penny or two but slightly cheaper route. id give a more detailed response but im on a webcam atm lmao. pretty much like i stated its hard not to spend alot of money to make the car fast. turbo / sc kits will run you like 6k where nitrous is about 1k but you also have to factor the bolt ons and possible head work for both if you really want to push the car

[muscles]

ha so either way its gonna be a pretty penny. which sucks but that's life for a tuner/modder

[skysky]

For power upgrades you will need the headers and exhaust anyway if you do decide to go the FI route(even spray), so that would be a good start right there since it is pretty much essential. As far as which route to go I would go with the NA choice(which most are doing). For this route the only other thing to get is a CAI, not one specific one as they are all pretty much the same and operate under a fairly straightforward basis, there are dyno charts on here somewhere on an old thread but the Weapon R, Injen, and Fujita are all pretty similar as far as design and power gain. Maybe get the outlaw spacers too and your pretty much done other than getting a tune, which you don't have to have. The FIC setup to tune is very nice and is supported by many users here and cleans up the air/fuel ratio allowing for more power, although like I said it isn't necessary but you can always add it on later after your bolt-ons if you decide you want to go that in-depth(is slightly pricey to setup and there is a learning curve).The NA direction lets you add parts and performance in increments, as budget and time allow. The FI route on the other hand is rather expensive if you don't want to spend a lot of money and currently there aren't any bolt-on, ready to go, turbo kits like Greddy has. although if later on in the future you decide to go FI(supercharger) after you have already done a NA bolt-on build, all you need to do is drop the CAI(and sell it here), as all the other parts from the NA build are still applicable.

Some other bang for the buck and simple to install parts are the Progress rear sway bar $115, engine roll stops $70(easy with lift or really tall jack stands), and the rear travel arm bushings $18, all of which will make the car crisper and help reduce the boat feeling. All of these above parts can be found on Road Race Engineering's website.


NA:
CAI
headers
exhaust
spacers
throttle body
...and your done if you don't want to tune or spray

FI:
SC or TC
piping
intercooler(if TC)
blow off valve
tuning hardware
headers
exhaust
spacers
throttle body
money
time

There might be a few things I missed for the FI but that's a simple run down. So again, the FI route requires a chunk of money to start off where as the NA route lets you build up incrementally while still allowing you to upgrade to FI or a nitrous setup. Hope that helps

[Isamu]

turbo /= headers..
you would need some kind of exhaust manifold.
unless you did like an STS turbo, in which case, headers would be viable.

it really depends on what you want the power for?
do you want to Drag Strip it?
do you want to Auto-X?
do you want to take it to a real track?

[Freeze7337]

OK, so i wana go N/A. This set-up is for bragging rights really, i want it to run fast, sound good, and laugh when i see a honda pull up beside me trying to race. Where should i startfirst. ?? and of course REP 4G......

HKS Exhaust
Custom Middle tubing
Headers
Motor mounts
CAI

Can someone tell me the benefits of having these mods below??
Throttle body??
Spacers???
short shift???

[skysky]

Throttle Body: Allows a larger volume of air to pas through your intake system. The more air you can move the more power you can make. breathe in through your mouth in a reverse whistle, now open your mouth up whie doing so. Get the concept?

Spacers: These seperate the intake manifold from the intake plenum, as well as the intake plenum from the throttle body. The material the spacers are made of helps reduce heat conduction between these parts, this in turn keeps your intake system cooler as the heat from the engine block does not transfer through as fast. The end result is air coming in stays cooler and denser longer helping to preserve power.

Short Shifter: This is really more of a comfort piece than anything else. It shortens the travel of your gear selector, shortening shift time slightly. The aluminum bushing that come with the kit also remove some sloppiness in the system and make it feel crisper.

The parts you are looking to start with are actually good choices in my eyes. The stock exhaust tubing is arguably the optimal diameter, so just removing the cats, freeing things up and leaving the tubing is a good idea. Hope that helps.

[deprydation]

Also, if you talk to Mike W at Road Race Engineering I'm sure he can build you a remote turbo kit. One of the members here and on the SoCal4G site was quoted about 6500 to build the kit...the same one that is on the RRE Race car.