RRE Headers iInstalled = Service Engine Soon

[HomesickAlien]

i.e. 'Hey Joey!'

So I got my headers this morning and didn't get a chance to install them until tonite -- I just got done at 1:40AM to be exact.

So, for one, she runs like a bitch out of Hell -- pure sex. My car literally changed into another vehicle over the course of an hour or two. Just beautifulness.

I THOUGHT I avoided the SES bug -- I let her idle for about 10 minutes before driving then took it easy on her for the first 10 miles, then went WOT for about five miles to see what my baby could do (Very nice! I like!), and then at exactly 15.9 miles the dreaded 'Service Engine Soon' light popped up.

From what I've read here and there, it's a pretty common problem. I'll throw the reader on it tomorrow, but I'm guessing it's going to come back 'O2 Sensor Blah Blah Blah'.

So is this something I should try to -- or can -- fix? I've got the spacers on, maybe take them off? Or just say fuck it clear the code and forget about it?

For the record, my dad is the owner of his own 1,000,000+ a year auto repair business that he built from the ground up and he helped me with the install; point being -- and I HOPE you guys know me well enough by now that you know I'm going all 'Look at me!' or anything like that -- that I'm pretty damn sure everything is installed 100% correct.

So....what can I/should I do?

Try to fix it -- if there's something that actually NEEDS fixing; or say fuck it and clear that dumbass code?

Thanks guys, any input is appreciated....

[Clovisman]

Post the DTC's and we'll go from there. These are the New RRE Headers and I'm sure after a six-month wait they did test this product. Probably something simple, and if it happened on your headers, well there's about another 50 sets of header out there that it's getting read to happen to.

If you haven't, once you clear the code/s, reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery so the ECU and Throttle Body can go through a re-learn process. After reconnecting the battery, turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the engine. Wait about two-minutes, then turn the key to OFF for ten-seconds. Start the car up and let it idle for about ten-minutes, then turn the engine OFF for ten seconds. Restart the engine and take it easy on the throttle for about 30 miles, NO WOT for the first 30. After that you should be good to go. Post any codes if you get any.

[HomesickAlien]

Just for the record, I unplugged the battery before I started the install, let the key sit in the 'on' position for about two minutes before I cranked it and let it idle for a good 20 minutes before I drove it -- so I covered all my bases, except maybe going WOT a little early but I don't think thats enough to throw a code.

I guess we'll see what the reader says tomorrow and go from there....

[muscles]

Sounds like an o2 sensor.. might have been damaged during the install of the header? When i was installing mine at the shop; one of the 02 sensors was cross threaded in the oem header. Luckily for me they had another eclipse on the lot so i took theres. Other then a rough idle from there new spacers, mines working perfectly. So let us know what that reader says.

[stangcobra]

I dont know if the rre headers come with cats but if they dont you probably have to space them, though I'm just pulling that out of my ass I have no idea

[HomesickAlien]

Originally Posted by stangcobra

I dont know if the rre headers come with cats but if they dont you probably have to space them, though I'm just pulling that out of my ass I have no idea

They don't.

Space the cats? Confusion has set in.

[pat_08GT_Spyder]

Use spacers on the rear O2 sensors the ones that used to be after the cats...

[HomesickAlien]

Originally Posted by pat_08GT_Spyder

Use spacers on the rear O2 sensors the ones that used to be after the cats...

I did. The ones that came with the headers.

Anyway, the verdict is in:

Oxygen Sensor Low --

Bank 1, sensor 2
Bank 2, sensor 2

I cleared the codes, is this because of the spacers? Something I should worry about or fuck it?

[HomesickAlien]

Just talked to the guy from RRE, he said I should try drilling out a bigger hole in the spacers to allow more air in to the 02 Sensor....who the fuck does he think I am?

I should have stated that I am a dumbass n00b.

[HomesickAlien]

....like I have a god damn O2 Sensor Spacer drill in my damn back pocket or something.

[HAHA NO]

I carry a code reader in the car it hasn't done the SES light in a while but oh well. Ill be able to take it off when I tune the car.

[HomesickAlien]

Ok,so....I cleared the codes, reset the ECU, and drove like a damn pussy for exactly 33.1 miles -- which was SUPER hard, because this gay ass mid-90's Integra kept trying to race me -- and I have yet to throw a code.

I'm gonna make a quick pit-stop -- hehe get it? 'Pit-stop'? I'm just the darndest thing -- and do a chemically-enhanced tune-up on my brain, and then take her out again and drive like a man, and pray no codes show up.

[Oil_Fan]

Good luck man!! I just wish I could do headers sometime soonish but I have a feeling it's going to be next spring for me. But upgrading my exhaust could be in the works soon.

[ptr149]

That's weird, Ballfade has the RRE header and even without spacers he has no code. I bet you won't get it again, and if you do I would make sure you have the spacers on the post cat 02 sensors

[pat_08GT_Spyder]

I have spacers, and i get the P0421 every 300 miles or so... Plug the OBD reader in, clear it, done...
I'd rather not have it at all, but it's safer for me to clear it once in a while than messing around with the spacers / sensors, haha!!!

[deprydation]

^
Ballfade has a GT.

HomesickAlien has a GS.


OP, all you need to do is get a drill, with some metal drill bits, remove the O2 sensors and drill the hole out in the spacer JUST A HAIR at a time until you don't pop any SES lights.

For this you can even use a Dremel with a very small sanding or polishing bit on it.

[HomesickAlien]

Originally Posted by deprydation

^
Ballfade has a GT.

HomesickAlien has a GS.


OP, all you need to do is get a drill, with some metal drill bits, remove the O2 sensors and drill the hole out in the spacer JUST A HAIR at a time until you don't pop any SES lights.

For this you can even use a Dremel with a very small sanding or polishing bit on it.

Appreciate the tip bro, hopefully I'll luck out and the evil code won't come back....but with my luck, I'm counting on having to drill it out.

Thanks man.

[ptr149]

False, Ballfade has a GS

[deprydation]

Indeed I was wrong.

Phail.

[Daxenth]

wow will... i get the codes on occasion. there is no 100% fix. but like HAHA i also have a code scanner/eraser in the car at all times... also. dont drive drunk if you were referring to that as the pit stop.

[DustinH]

Could you take a quick pic and post it on here so we can see how its all hooked up?

[ThE JaIMsTa]

definately dont drink and drive, thats definately not kosher man.


also, ptr, is ballfade really running spacer-less?

[HomesickAlien]

Originally Posted by ThE JaIMsTa

definately dont drink and drive, thats definately not kosher man.


also, ptr, is ballfade really running spacer-less?

You read that wrong, I NEVER drink and drive....

And I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow. The SES came back after about 40 miles, pretty much as soon as I went WOT -- just like I figured.

I guess I'll probably try drilling out a little more breathing room for the sensor like the guy from RRE suggested....

[Clovisman]

Originally Posted by HomesickAlien

You read that wrong, I NEVER drink and drive....

And I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow. The SES came back after about 40 miles, pretty much as soon as I went WOT -- just like I figured.

I guess I'll probably try drilling out a little more breathing room for the sensor like the guy from RRE suggested....

Well the good thing is that you have the same code for both banks.

Having to drill the holes a little larger is really no big deal, it's more of a hassle then anything. And this is part of the setup for the RRE Headers / any header setup for this car.

Like noted above, be very careful how you re-size the holes for the spacers, if you drill them to large, you'll need to buy new spacers and start all over again. Once the holes are sized correctly, you'll very rearly set a DTC if ever.

I installed my RIPP Long Tube Headers about four-years ago and had to do the same process for the spacers. I'll set a code about every 4 to 6 months, clear it and I'm good to go for another 4 to 6 months. I'm sure if I got my lazy-ass back under the car and drilled one more time I'd probably never set a code again. But I have a DashDAQ installed, so if I do get a code I can clear it on the fly in less then 30 seconds.

Enjoy your new headers, and love to see some pic's of these new GS RRE Headers, I'd like to see how the O2 Sensor bungs are spaced, it might help those folks who have been installing the OBX Headers. Those poor guys are just riddle with codes after installation.

[HomesickAlien]

Well it looks like the 'Drill a little space out' theory is correct, here's my reasoning/theory:

Today was a fucking scorcher, I'm talking 100+ degrees. So my CEL mysteriously disappeared all day -- UNTIL the temp dropped below about 90 degrees. So I'm thinking that the heat caused the spacer to expand just enough to keep my CEL happy and then when it cooled off and it contracted, the CEL came back on.

So the amount I need to drill out must be VERY small if the little bit of expansion caused by the heat cleared the code until the temp cooled off a little. So I guess that 100% verifies that that is indeed the problem. Makes me feel a little better, since I'm completely certain of what the problem is and how to fix it.

Does that add up to you guys?

[meDave]

I've been driving on RRE header for over 3 yrs now, every once in a while cel pops up for a driving cycle and then goes away nothing to worry about.

[Clovisman]

Originally Posted by HomesickAlien

Well it looks like the 'Drill a little space out' theory is correct, here's my reasoning/theory:

Today was a fucking scorcher, I'm talking 100+ degrees. So my CEL mysteriously disappeared all day -- UNTIL the temp dropped below about 90 degrees. So I'm thinking that the heat caused the spacer to expand just enough to keep my CEL happy and then when it cooled off and it contracted, the CEL came back on.

So the amount I need to drill out must be VERY small if the little bit of expansion caused by the heat cleared the code until the temp cooled off a little. So I guess that 100% verifies that that is indeed the problem. Makes me feel a little better, since I'm completely certain of what the problem is and how to fix it.

Does that add up to you guys?

Yes and no , but more on the no side. Our engines/ECU tunes itself rather quickly, i.e. hot temps to cold temps, so your exhaust gases change with the amount of fuel that is being delivered to the engine depending on the weather conditions. So you are half right.

That's why I said it's a good thing that you are throwing the same code for each back, the only common thing between both banks are the spacers. So drill them out a little, the O2's get more gas/heat, that will increase the voltage out-put, and the ECU will be happy.

[HomesickAlien]

I'm saying though, if all I need is a little more space -- it was hot enough today to cause the spacer to expand just enough to give me that extra space that I need to drill out.

In other words, the expansion caused by the 100+ degree heat simulated me drilling out a little bit more space.

I'm pretty sure of this, because as soon as it started cooling just a little and got below about 93 degrees is when the light came back on...

[DustinH]

Originally Posted by HomesickAlien

I'm saying though, if all I need is a little more space -- it was hot enough today to cause the spacer to expand just enough to give me that extra space that I need to drill out.

In other words, the expansion caused by the 100+ degree heat simulated me drilling out a little bit more space.

I'm pretty sure of this, because as soon as it started cooling just a little and got below about 93 degrees is when the light came back on...

Wouldnt it take quite a bit of heat to expand steel though?

[muscles]

i took my spacer off completely and it solved my problem so far with the ses light. so if your spacer still doesnt work after making it a lil bigger then that may be your last resort.