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Old December 8th, 2011, 05:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Got my o2 sensors sitting in front of me, soooo

For these long tube headers, which o2 need to be extended to what length? I found no post saying it and I need to take them back to the shop soo the guy can plug em in tonight and finally finish my car. I got a long black one, short black one, andshort and long grey ones
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Old December 8th, 2011, 06:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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this is a cut n' paste from Freekers' OBX Longtubes install thread...it may be of some assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb View Post
===========================================

The one thing we didn't really get pics of is the o2 sensor install. No real need to show us soldering wires, but you'll need to be comfortable doing that. If not, you should probably find someone who is.

There are 2 Approaches you can take with the extension of the o2 sensor wires.

1 --> Each o2 sensor has about a 12 inch wire on it stock, then a plug (either grey or black) that plugs into the ECU wires. You can cut this 12 inch wire (4 wires inside) and insert the recommended length of extension for each of the 4. Here they are, cut and pasted from RIPP's instructions:

1. You will need to extend all four O2’s (16 wires) to the now relocated spots, make sure you have the correct plug for the allocated O2.
• Bank 1 Sensor 1 = On J pipe (Black Plug-Cut 22” of gray wire)
• Bank 1 Sensor 2 = After cat or on cat delete pipe (Gray Plug-cut 40” gray of wire))
• Bank 2 Sensor 1 = Rear collector (Black Plug- 22” gray of wire)
• Bank 2 Sensor 2 = After cat or on cat delete pipe (Gray Plug- 75” gray of wire)
2. Cut back the protective sleeve and cut one wire at a time and extend it.

Approach #2 - You could also extend the ECU Plugs themselves, leaving the o2 sensors and their 12" wire totally untouched - just remounted and plugged in at a new spot. Basically you are moving the plugs on the engine and extending them down further into the bay and underneath so the o2 sensors can plug into them from their new spots. This is what I did when I installed mine. It is a little more challenging to solder cleanly while leaning down in the engine bay, and I am not sure this really buys you anything - BUT I don't throw any codes ever.

Here is a picture of the installed and moved o2 sensors w/ spark-plug defoulers for spacers (on REAR o2 senors only - do not put spacers on the front ones).
once you move the o2 sensors make sure they don't touch the block or the new headers. zip tie them down to avoid anything that could damage them with heat.



here is a shot of the final product welded into my cat-back. I have a catalytic converter still in there (high-performance/high flow, but a cat none the less) which the shop welded into my cat-delete pipe for me. Jeff just had them put the cat-delete pipe inthere and weld it up clean. $50 dollars at the muffler shop. Took all of an hour at the most.
this will tell you the lengths...and you can kind of even use those as clues as to which plug goes where as you replace them properly, in the correct order.

There are 2 "banks" or "sides" for the 6G75 V-6 Mivec Engine.
There are 2 kinds of plugs/sensors for each side/bank.
That is a total of 4.
So on each side you will have
ONE (1) PRE-CAT sensor
ONE (1) POST-CAT

Obviously, you need to know which bank is which, so the ECU doesn't get confused and start correcting a fuel trim on the wrong side b/c the sensors are reversed, you dig?

Let a brotha know if this don't make no sense, but hopefully this get's you pointed in the right direction.

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Old December 8th, 2011, 06:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sweet. why didnt i see this when i searched. i must be losing my touch
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