HOW TO: Make H13 HID Kit stay on with High Beams

Shapdog · May 30th, 2007, 05:47 PM

For those who have Single HID H13 kits in their OEM headlamps, when you go to flash your highs (instinct usually), you lose all light, which could be very dangerous.

Here's what you need to do to fix it.

Basically, T the ballast's Positive wire, and connect both legs of the T 2 the OUTSIDE wires of the H13 socket.

Wiring Before:

Wiring After:

I dont have an Eclipse, or an H13 HiD Kit, so I had to improvise. That white connector is an H13 connector though. Basically, as long as the ballast's Positive wire goes to both OUTSIDE wires, and the ballast's negative wire goes to the MIDDLE wire, nothing else matters.

Quoted from Khanh, Club4geclipse

superspider · January 6th, 2008, 12:19 PM

would it work on H11 HID ?

GT Joe · January 6th, 2008, 12:35 PM

Whats the difference between say the H11 and H13. The HID's are somethin I know absolutely nothing about. But every1 is telling to go w/ them.

Leeclipse · January 6th, 2008, 04:47 PM

They sell HID kits that have the high and low beams. I have them for my car. It has two bulbs in the one H13 housing. One bulb is HID and the other is halogen, for the hi-beam.

You should not flash an HID ballast on and off because it will fry your ballast in short time.

Another style that incorporates a ji-beam uses a magnetic device in the bulb. When you hit the hi-beam the magnet pulls the HID bulb up so that it raises the light beam. This type doesn't respond quickly so doesn't work well when you flash.

itsmatt · January 8th, 2008, 11:01 PM

haha yeah I hit my high beam and lost all light once.. learned my lesson

Panicbutton · January 9th, 2008, 08:47 PM

HID for high/Low im jealous.

MeCks|One · January 15th, 2008, 12:54 AM

btw make sure to disable the DRLs or else you could end up with some headaches and who doesn't love a good headache

Slippercream · January 15th, 2008, 01:20 AM

Again... you shouldn't have to disable DRLs. A good "kit" will be wired directly to constant 12V power, and relayed to run any kind of hi/lo factory switched power. I say make your own harness... but then again not everyone listened to their Physics teacher when they covered Ohm's Law in high school so...

Yeah.

And true quality hi/lo setups aren't a function of the bulbs... they're a function of the projectors

Putting "hi/lo" bulbs in a factory dome headlight system is no different than putting any bulb... but this time with shutters. Kinda stupid actually. And using them with projector units is just outright dumb. Especially if you're going to try to fit something like that in an H1/H13... which really won't fit to begin with.

MeCks|One · January 15th, 2008, 01:37 PM

I've gone through 2 kits both pretty good first one being autovizion didnt have to disable the drls didnt even worry about it.. second one being xetronics also prettyy damn good, had to disable the drls so it all depends.. and ya i failed physics last semester so lets not even go there haha even though it was mechanics and not e and m

Slippercream · January 18th, 2008, 03:16 AM

Well... like I said. All you need is CONSTANT 12v power. Heck, use a different switch for your lights if you'd like. Personally I'd use something like park... or the DRLs themselves as the switched power

May 30th, 2007, 05:47 PM	#1 (permalink)
Shapdog Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL Vehicle: 06 Eclipse GS Posts: 704 Rep Power: 2	HOW TO: Make H13 HID Kit stay on with High Beams For those who have Single HID H13 kits in their OEM headlamps, when you go to flash your highs (instinct usually), you lose all light, which could be very dangerous. Here's what you need to do to fix it. Basically, T the ballast's Positive wire, and connect both legs of the T 2 the OUTSIDE wires of the H13 socket. Wiring Before: Wiring After: I dont have an Eclipse, or an H13 HiD Kit, so I had to improvise. That white connector is an H13 connector though. Basically, as long as the ballast's Positive wire goes to both OUTSIDE wires, and the ballast's negative wire goes to the MIDDLE wire, nothing else matters. Quoted from Khanh, Club4geclipse __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2554527 http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/7...gnaturerp4.jpg

January 6th, 2008, 12:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
superspider Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Spingfield, Virginia Vehicle: 2007/spyder/GT Posts: 62 Rep Power: 1	would it work on H11 HID ? __________________ 450hp supercharged spider http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f.../album2016.jpg

January 6th, 2008, 12:35 PM	#3 (permalink)
GT Joe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Jacksonville, Fl Vehicle: 2007/Eclipse/GT Posts: 551 Rep Power: 2	Whats the difference between say the H11 and H13. The HID's are somethin I know absolutely nothing about. But every1 is telling to go w/ them. __________________ *GT JOE*

January 6th, 2008, 04:47 PM	#4 (permalink)
Leeclipse Diss-member Join Date: May 2007 Vehicle: 2006 Eclipse GT Posts: 590 Rep Power: 2	They sell HID kits that have the high and low beams. I have them for my car. It has two bulbs in the one H13 housing. One bulb is HID and the other is halogen, for the hi-beam. You should not flash an HID ballast on and off because it will fry your ballast in short time. Another style that incorporates a ji-beam uses a magnetic device in the bulb. When you hit the hi-beam the magnet pulls the HID bulb up so that it raises the light beam. This type doesn't respond quickly so doesn't work well when you flash. __________________ AEM CAI, Tanabe exhaust, Progress Swaybar, Works Shift knob, Toyo Proxes4, DEI Heat shield, Throttle body bypass, Mobile 1 oil, Redline MTL gear lube, Rippmod Brat, Apexi super ground system, custom Alpine/Crossfire sound system, Ingalls ETD, Tork Matrix 18" lightweight wheels and race lugs.

January 8th, 2008, 11:01 PM	#5 (permalink)
itsmatt Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: South Jersey Vehicle: 06 Frost white GT Posts: 218 Rep Power: 2	haha yeah I hit my high beam and lost all light once.. learned my lesson __________________ 06 gt-HKS exhaust, Fujita Intake, Progress rear sway bar, 8k HID's w/ ralliart eyelids, 2500k fogs, blue interior neons, black calipers, triple gauge pod, ScangaugeII, Panasonic 7'' ts/dvd. clarion 10'' sub w/kenwood amp, optima red top, red loom kit

		Mitsubishi Eclipse Forums > Performance and Technical > Eclipse Garage > Electronics
HOW TO: Make H13 HID Kit stay on with High Beams

January 9th, 2008, 08:47 PM	#6 (permalink)
Panicbutton Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Frederick, MD Vehicle: 06/GT/6-Speed Posts: 808 Rep Power: 7	HID for high/Low im jealous. __________________ 06 GT, 6-Speed 35% Carbon Stable Tint Aero Kit, Falken Ziex-912 Titanium Gray Fully Loaded

January 15th, 2008, 12:54 AM	#7 (permalink)
MeCks\|One WTFdidyoujustsay? Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Palm Beach/Orlando, FL Posts: 156 Rep Power: 3	btw make sure to disable the DRLs or else you could end up with some headaches and who doesn't love a good headache

January 15th, 2008, 01:20 AM	#8 (permalink)
Slippercream AWOL, but still HDL-ing ! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Between Austin, Houston, and Hell on Earth Vehicle: 06 6MT GT-PP, 01 5MT GT-T Posts: 6,356 Rep Power: 16	Again... you shouldn't have to disable DRLs. A good "kit" will be wired directly to constant 12V power, and relayed to run any kind of hi/lo factory switched power. I say make your own harness... but then again not everyone listened to their Physics teacher when they covered Ohm's Law in high school so... Yeah. And true quality hi/lo setups aren't a function of the bulbs... they're a function of the projectors Putting "hi/lo" bulbs in a factory dome headlight system is no different than putting any bulb... but this time with shutters. Kinda stupid actually. And using them with projector units is just outright dumb. Especially if you're going to try to fit something like that in an H1/H13... which really won't fit to begin with. __________________ D + D + D = ____________ Last edited by Slippercream : January 15th, 2008 at 01:22 AM.

January 15th, 2008, 01:37 PM	#9 (permalink)
MeCks\|One WTFdidyoujustsay? Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Palm Beach/Orlando, FL Posts: 156 Rep Power: 3	I've gone through 2 kits both pretty good first one being autovizion didnt have to disable the drls didnt even worry about it.. second one being xetronics also prettyy damn good, had to disable the drls so it all depends.. and ya i failed physics last semester so lets not even go there haha even though it was mechanics and not e and m

January 18th, 2008, 03:16 AM	#10 (permalink)
Slippercream AWOL, but still HDL-ing ! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Between Austin, Houston, and Hell on Earth Vehicle: 06 6MT GT-PP, 01 5MT GT-T Posts: 6,356 Rep Power: 16	Well... like I said. All you need is CONSTANT 12v power. Heck, use a different switch for your lights if you'd like. Personally I'd use something like park... or the DRLs themselves as the switched power __________________ D + D + D = ____________

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