Cobb supercharger for the Eclipse GT

[Dclipse]

I can understand the Cobb guys. Why should they invest money in a kit that people only talk about. If you GT guys are like the GS good luck selling something like that. Besides, as far as I know they don't make full kits for anyone. They sell parts for mostly factory turbo cars. That's much easier, especially with dealing with issues down the road.

[TwilsonD7]

any word on this kit yet??

[michow]

i think its more like a "its never going to happen" situation

[360jeepboy]

I think it could come out in the future... they just have to see it will sale...

[TwilsonD7]

I talk to Cobb twice today and they kit will bot be coming out nor will they sell any of the parts on it. I asked about just the SDS and then the intercooler and they said no. They only sell whole kits and there will not be on coming out for the eclipse. That is a sexy SDS and a top to bottom intercooler that large is hard to find.

[360jeepboy]

Yea I hear you.... sigh... that sucks!!

[TwilsonD7]

its funny cause I just last week decided to to super over turbo and pictured doing the same exact kit with the ripp sds, fmic, AEM FIC, greddy type s bob, ripp long tube headers and custom 3" exhaust before I even saw the Cobb. Once I sell this turbo setup for the gs I'll have a new SDS that no ones seen. So if anyone knows of anyone who wants a gs turbo let me know so I can show you a kick ass SDS.

[cleangt1]

hey just found out that cobb is opening a shop here in san antonio pretty soon so ill be there to talk aboat this supercharger for us.

[y2karnival]

no COBB, no turbo setup, and no Cams yet.....

[360jeepboy]

makes u wana sell the car a little huh...

[TwilsonD7]

Or quit your bitch'n and build something of your own. It honestly wont cost that much to build a turbo kit. Buy either the RRE or RIPP headers and have a shop make a turbo y pipe and downpipe. Its what im about to do cause this whole ripp supercharger is starting to disappoint me. After seeing the one RIPP supercharger Supplemental fuel system put a car in flames i don't want to use that...and its this supercharger cant blow hard enough to put an intercooler on...i feel restricted and help back from doing anymore. Yeah 430WHP is a lot when you use everything in their kit (plus the extra 4000 in add ons you need to keep you car in good running shape) but then whats after that...If this supercharger cant handle a little back pressure from a intercooler what gives it the ability to further down the road to up the boost if it can only handle so much...I was told with my GS if i bought just the forges pistons from RRE I could up the boost to 15PSI and me well over 300 to the wheels. that kind of kit on the GT would put me well past RIPPs kit and sound a lot cooler too....plus i have something that i built that everyone else is crying for. Ive done it once with the 4G69 and looks like Im going to have to do it again with the 4G75....

[ronron112]

forged pistons and 4g63 rods will fit the 4g69 Platform easy. Thats what im planning to do next year along with standalone fuel management. gonna be running an easy CLEAN 375WHP. standalone is the key for this car, AEM FIC is is ok but still has its own problems, ppl who have a turbo knows what im talking bout.

[TwilsonD7]

right now I think it's just you and meckone and hes been problem free. I was told awhile back that the rods were going to be a problem but never heard 4G69 would fit . It's a different stroke isn't it? I heard somewhere that the 4G72 header would fit the 75. Is that true cause there'd a shit loaf of 3000GT parts.

[BrianJ]

Originally Posted by ronron112

forged pistons and 4g63 rods will fit the 4g69 Platform easy. Thats what im planning to do next year along with standalone fuel management. gonna be running an easy CLEAN 375WHP. standalone is the key for this car, AEM FIC is is ok but still has its own problems, ppl who have a turbo knows what im talking bout.

Really? What sort of problems are you referring to with the FIC?

[ronron112]

with the FIC you will run into problems such as hiccups at certain rpm levels and even after you tune the car to remove them they can still appear in time, could be 1day or 1 month, also not to mention ur car will always throw a 3 or 4 codes. U have to understand the FIC is a piggyback and it fools the ECU into thinking ur car is running stock. With a standalone you can take over your car and have your car ECU do it thing for certain stuff still lights, radio ect..., but with standalone u get to write your own fuel paths wihout the ECU overriding them and disturbing ur tuning, and wacky rpm levels and erractic hiccup that ur must clean every so often. Its all about the fuel.

[ronron112]

Standalone ecu vs a piggy back computer
(I think it is physically possible to write a 500 page book on this so I will try to be brief and cut out as much of the fat as possible – stick to the essentials… hopefully)

So your car is boosted from the factory, or your car has been equipped with aftermarket boost or you have an n/a car and are planning on boosting whatever the case, you are interested in buying an aftermarket computer but you are a little confused, its o.k we have all been there, most of us still are (including me – the blind leading the blind in this article ? ) So which ecu is best for you? This umbrella question encompasses a whole host of other questions all of which I will try to address.

First we should understand how and what engine parameters your ecu takes in to determine the tune of your car. There are three main parameters (maps) when tuning your car:
1.) Fuel (A/F Ratio)
2.) Cam angle *note*
3.) Ignition timing

*note* When I talk about cam angle, I will be referring to today’s newer cars with variable cam timing…

O.K. so your car uses these three parameters to build a “map” or tune for your vehicle.

Next let’s explain what a standalone ecu and piggy back ecu are and what they can and can’t do.

Stand Alone ECU
There are many different types of stand alone ecu’s that all encompass their own unique features, to many to talk about, so I will try to stick to the roots of the equipment.
A stand alone ecu is an ecu that is separate from your cars stock ecu (in most cases, Hondata would be an exception). A standalone ecu lets you build new ignition cam angle and ignition maps for your car, starting from scratch. This is the main difference between a piggy back and standalone and also the most important so I think I’ll leave it at that.




Piggy back ECU and or A/F Controller

Again, like the standalone ecu, there are many different types of piggy backs with their own unique functions. A piggy back ecu or a/f controller takes signals from your sensors and modifies them to trick your ecu into reading a different value.


Ok. So which ecu is for you. Once having a fairly in depth idea (more then the knowledge base that this article provided) of how your ecu builds maps and how a piggy back and standalone ecu work the answer should become quite obvious.

If you have a n/a car and you are planning on boosting it, there really is only one reasonable choice. A stand alone ecu. This is because a naturally aspirated cars ecu is programmed for a na engine. The main concern is your ignition timing. An na tuned car (i.e your stock car) will have ignition maps that are way to advanced for a boosted application causing detonation, which is detrimental to your engine.
Well doesn’t a a/f controller and piggy back computer control ignition timing?
Yes but not effectively. An a/f controller takes readings from your maf/map sensor and alters them trick your ecu into reading a different signal. And since all your maps are tied in together, your maf/map sensor signal also will move where your ecu reads its ignition timing on the map. your maf/map is not only used to maintain air/fuel, but its also used by the ecu to determine load, and load is used for determining timing advance, this has the side effect of fooling the ecu into advancing timing beyond what is safe. These readings will also effect where your cam angle is, which more then likely will not be at the optimal angle for your boosted application.

Newer piggy backs like the e-manage ultimate can control your ignition timing separately from your airflow readings, but there are still catches. You are able to change ignition timing maps but the e-manage simply changes the output signal the ecu sends to the coils. The problem is the ignition timing numbers are not always consistent with the changes you make to the load sensor, whether its your map, or maf sensor. So you are guessing the timing numbers. The stock ecu also has multiple maps it can run for different conditions so you are not always consistent with the tune.

A stand alone ecu lets you build, from scratch, completely new ignition timing maps and fuel maps and cam angle maps. Optimal for your boosted application so you can run a safer tune that will make more power.

A car that has come from the factory already has optimal ignition timing maps and there for really only needs a a/f controller or a piggy back that can compensate in a relatively small window range. Unless you plan on drastically changing your stock boosted air flow characteristics, a piggy back will suit you just fine.

[TwilsonD7]

what system are you thinking of running with?