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Old June 21st, 2007, 08:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HOWTO: Changing Spark plugs.

*Originally posted by JayRoc.*


Here are a few steps, but not a detailed how-to by any means... felt too lazy to take a picture of every single mundane detail. but this should be good enough as a "guide"



first you'll have to remove the upper portion of whatever intake brand you have so that the throttle body has clearance. Stock would require the same. no need to remove the whole thing. If you have a one piece fujita like me, simply unbolt it from the TB and its vibration mount and move it to the side.




This pic shows the sensors and brackets that will need to be removed along the perimeter of the plenum.





This one shows them removed. I found it easy (when possible) to lightly screw the bolts back into their position for ease of placement. This way you won't accidentally lose them.



Next i removed the throttle body, 4 bolts with one on each corner. Then just place it aside as far as it will allow to the right unplugging the harness of course. Remember to return the gasket when reassembling.





Then i got to work on the rear bolts behind the plenum. This is the trickiest part of the removal. It would definitely help to remove the strut bar as there is little space to fit your hand in, but i kept mine there cause once again i was lazy haha, but i had all the proper tools to get to them. you'll need a ratchet and open wrenches. 2 support bracket bolts. 2 for the EGR tube, and one holding the spring in place for the EGR tube (this is important to remove as it will allow the tube to bend in order to pull the plenum up and out once everything is unbolted.






Surprisingly, there was another support bracket along with a bolt underneath the throttle body position as well.




Then i removd the purge solenoid located after the throttle body in the plenum. simple, a few bolts... and don't forget the vacuum line behind it as well.






Once everything is disconnected from the throttle body, you can slowly wedge it from the grasp of the EGR tube like so... then carefully shimmy it up and out of the engine bay.








Also, ya gotta make sure nothing gets into the lower intake manifold so it would be a good idea to cover it up until you're ready to put it back.



Now it was time to remove the old plugs. you'll need a deep socket 14mm to get to it. it's pretty deep so unless you have all the tools needed don't attempt this at home.







Here is a side by side comparison of the old iridium plug and the new copper plug. can you tell which one is which? Wink also, make sure they are properly gapped.










after replacing all 6... put everything back in its place, if you can remember where everything goes hahaha



As i said before, this is a cliff note description of what needs to be done. It's not as simple as a cold air intake that's for certain, but if you have the right tools you can do it yourself.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 05:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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this thread was a great write-up. Applause.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 01:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good Write Up

The tip for putting the bolts back in place has saved my ass multiple times on multiple cars because I have a short attention span and memorey!
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 01:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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this thread was a great write-up. Applause.


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Old June 22nd, 2007, 11:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old June 23rd, 2007, 06:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Very nice. Is there a suggested mileage to replace the plugs? Just curious.
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Old June 23rd, 2007, 09:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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just had to make this a sticky
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Old June 23rd, 2007, 09:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Haha, the last transverse V6 I had was a 3.1L Grand Am. You actually had to unbolt the front motor mount and turn the engine to do the back 3. Only way to change the plug wires too.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 04:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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very good right up... THANKS
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Old October 5th, 2007, 08:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I just did my back three plugs yesterday...

I found it was easier to leave the sensors on the left hand side of the intake manifold attached and just to bend over the manifold after it's unbolted and let it rest on the left wheel well and do the spark plugs.

PS Your spark plugs looked like they are gapped at like 22...stock they are at 33 from what I could tell so I gaped mine at 38.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 09:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I just got my NGK laser Irdiums and plan on replacing this weekend. The Iridiums come pregapped at the factory .30 and say you shouldn't regap irdium. The top portion of the Iridiums are actually platinum and the small electrode is actual irdium.

I'm doing mine at 34k miles. How have your old plugs looked and at what mileage did you change? I heard the 2006 GT plugs have looked pretty fouled up because of the lean settings they started with before the reflash.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 10:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I just got my NGK laser Irdiums and plan on replacing this weekend. The Iridiums come pregapped at the factory .30 and say you shouldn't regap irdium. The top portion of the Iridiums are actually platinum and the small electrode is actual irdium.

I'm doing mine at 34k miles. How have your old plugs looked and at what mileage did you change? I heard the 2006 GT plugs have looked pretty fouled up because of the lean settings they started with before the reflash.

I don't think our car has ever ran lean It's always ran rich and after the reflash it ran even richer. It's a little weird cause unburnt fuel is what heats a converter up and will make them go bad...
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Old October 5th, 2007, 10:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The orgional problem was the fuel mix was lean. Lean fuel ratio creates more heat, which was burning the precats. It was actually heat burning them, not the chemical reaction with gas. If it was super rich and to much gas was getting to the cats them they could burn that way to from the chemical reaction in the cats.

This is how it was described by mitsubishis letter sent to their tech centers.

Now either way, both settings may have been rich by some others standards but when compared from the reflash the change was richer.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 11:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I got mine from Advanced Auto (not the OEM IR, I got the IRX's...)

They came pregapped at 44...and that was WAYYYY too big in my opinion so thats why I knocked them down to the 38 because the stock ones obviously wear over time...I dont want to go too small because it would hinder the complete burn/clean of the combustion

Heat kills cats, which blocks them up (burns up the platinum in it).
Too rich blocks up cats with unburnt gas....lots of pretty back fires and popping in the exhaust

The plugs looked burnt, from running lean, but not lean enough to fry the IR in the plugs or anything like that.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 01:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I got mine from Advanced Auto (not the OEM IR, I got the IRX's...)

They came pregapped at 44...and that was WAYYYY too big in my opinion so thats why I knocked them down to the 38 because the stock ones obviously wear over time...I dont want to go too small because it would hinder the complete burn/clean of the combustion

Heat kills cats, which blocks them up (burns up the platinum in it).
Too rich blocks up cats with unburnt gas....lots of pretty back fires and popping in the exhaust

The plugs looked burnt, from running lean, but not lean enough to fry the IR in the plugs or anything like that.

That pretty much coinsides with what I've heard about our plugs. I'll take pics of the old plugs when I get them out.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 06:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The orgional problem was the fuel mix was lean. Lean fuel ratio creates more heat, which was burning the precats. It was actually heat burning them, not the chemical reaction with gas. If it was super rich and to much gas was getting to the cats them they could burn that way to from the chemical reaction in the cats.

This is how it was described by mitsubishis letter sent to their tech centers.

Now either way, both settings may have been rich by some others standards but when compared from the reflash the change was richer.

I agree that after the flash the car ran richer, I'm just saying that it never really ran lean.. I think the problem is cause they put the cats to close to the engine... but what do I know I'm just some guy..

Most of the time the cat will go bad cause there's to much unburnt fuel in the exaust and it gets the cat really hot and melts the inside. It is the job of the cat to get rid of the hydrocarbons but to much is bad... thats why I can't believe people with the reflash arn't having problems yet... but maybe they don't run as rich as I do.
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Old October 5th, 2007, 06:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It might be due to the intake and muffler being off that it's running leaner, I know for a fact it needs a tune and I want to fix the exhaust (i.e. cats, GONE) but there aren't any solutions for it yet.
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Old October 6th, 2007, 02:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, I'm done. Let me tell you thats one pain in the ass considering your just changing plugs. I didn't take pics of the plugs because they looked exactly like the ones shown in the how to. The threads are brown and the elctrode looks ashy.

I did notice that the throttle body and plenum are all brown on the inside. I sprayed it down with engine cleaner and washed it out but most of the brown remained. I also noticed the plenum is very rough and at a minimum could use a polish job.
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Old October 6th, 2007, 03:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Note: These are 5's, I had to exchange them for 6's (before I did the back three).



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Old October 7th, 2007, 06:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Here's what mine looked like.



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Old October 7th, 2007, 07:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yours looked like mine
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Old October 9th, 2007, 01:35 PM   #22 (permalink)
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NGK FR6EI
DENSO K20PSR-B8

Gap Standard = 28-31
Maximum = 47

Mine are gaped at 38, but I'm going to knock down them just a tad more to around 33.
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Old March 29th, 2008, 07:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks to your write up i changed my too.
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Old May 28th, 2008, 08:53 PM   #24 (permalink)
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How do you know what gap your at? Is there a certain thing you need to get to find out the gap measurement?
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Old May 28th, 2008, 10:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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You need a spark plug gauge. You can buy them at any auto parts store and they should only be a few bucks. Here is one that Napa sells NAPAONLINEĀ®
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Old June 25th, 2008, 06:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Where did you get the NGK spark plugs? I wasn't able to find them online at the bigger suppliers' sites.
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Old July 5th, 2008, 08:33 AM   #27 (permalink)
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OK... has anyone definitively confirmed that we ACTUALLY now have a retail part SKU for the NGKs to fit the 4G 6G75-M? Last I checked the only ones available were Autolites. Not exactly something I'd put in any of my cars

Also, if they're made specifically for your car and we DO have a SKU for it, you shouldn't have to worry about regapping. I'd only really worry about it if you're boosted.
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Old July 8th, 2008, 07:50 PM   #28 (permalink)
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SKU 4867, Advance auto parts carrys them
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Old July 8th, 2008, 09:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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And make sure you torque down you spark plugs to the correct specs, because it will effect detonation, the performance and life of your motor!!
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Old July 8th, 2008, 09:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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NGK plugs,14mm,Aluminum head, gets 18-21.6 (lb-ft) of tq
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Old July 8th, 2008, 10:28 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Old July 9th, 2008, 11:21 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Talking

Yeah i just did it this morning, it was $63.19 for all 6 spark plugs(NGK lithium) and with this write up the job was not that bad as long as you have the required tools, torque wrench...etc. but while changing out the plugs i noticed that the previous owners lazy ass changed out the front 3 plugs with bosch platinum plugs, and the back three were the original NGK plugs what the F#%k!!!, and they were all gaped differently 28-40???? dumbass!...but i just got back from a drive down some backroads where i live and let me tell you what a difference $60 and a couple hours of your time can make!!!, i also cleaned out the intake manifold and throttle body with some carb cleaner, while it was off i think this helped alot too...
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Old August 4th, 2012, 10:47 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Exclamation Updated how to

Does anybody have an updated how to: on the spark plugs? Cant get these images to load, so anything would be much appreciated.
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Old August 4th, 2012, 11:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
tUNED.
 
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remove valve cover if u have one on there and anything else in the way of getting at the coils. pull the ignition coils. your spark plugs r down in those tubes that u just pulled the coils from. to get them out u need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a long enough extension. repeat this backwards to install. i highly recommend tightening them to the correct torque which i believe is 18 +/- 4 lbs or something like that. i always do 19lbs.
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Old August 4th, 2012, 11:03 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Holy thread revival, this is honestly the oldest revived thread I have seen yet lol, yea I noticed noooone of the pics worked except for like 1, and yes, we surely do need an updated how to thread for this lol fo sho

So Fresh and So Clean
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Old August 4th, 2012, 11:33 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply, that sounded much less complicated then the original post, but probably because I had no visuals, waiting for a stall to open at the shop right now
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Old August 4th, 2012, 12:34 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I have another question, is it important to put anti-seize on the new plugs, and should I gap them, their Ngk iridium plugs
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Old September 30th, 2012, 11:03 AM   #38 (permalink)
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This may seem like a newb question lol but I am a newb lol and I can't find this anywhere: can someone please tell me how to remove the valve cover off the 6g75. I don't see any bolts but I feel like I'm going to break the thing trying to get it off. Please help!!!!!!
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Old September 30th, 2012, 12:25 PM   #39 (permalink)
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once you remove the cover from the top of the motor they are here....i took these pics to help you locate them too,you have to remove the egr tube also and there is two bolts new the fuel filter also in pics,,
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Old September 30th, 2012, 12:28 PM   #40 (permalink)
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oh yeah and i went with the pulstar iridiums ....love them they were expensive but great for future modding
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air intake, back, bar, bay, body, cold air, cold air intake, engine, fit, fujita, gasket, good, intake, lower, manifold, plugs, rear, remove, sensors, spark, stock, strut, strut bar, throttle body, work

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