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Old July 7th, 2011, 12:35 PM   #1081 (permalink)
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But don't run that smaller pully untill your meth is up and running you will love the smaller pully it goes into boost as soon as you hit the gas
wow - sounds awesome. I can't wait! I may need your help making sure the meth is running, tho
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Old July 7th, 2011, 12:38 PM   #1082 (permalink)
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dejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nice
Like I said if u want to go over the wiring on the meth u got my number just give me a call... I'll walk u though it
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Old July 7th, 2011, 12:39 PM   #1083 (permalink)
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dejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nicedejectedangle is just really nice
I'll be home at 6
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Old July 7th, 2011, 05:22 PM   #1084 (permalink)
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^will do man, thanks! do you have a light or something that tells you when its on?
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Old July 11th, 2011, 11:27 PM   #1085 (permalink)
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Progress On Breaking Upgrades....

So I am about 50% through the install:
New (used) Drilled & Slotted Rotors
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Painted Calipers (Red)

Here are some photos of the battle....it has not been easy - not hugely difficult, but also very messy:

Here are the bolts you need to remove to take off the main caliper drum piece:

once you take away the bottom bolt, you can lift it up like so:

here's the bolts you hit to remove the outer part of the assembly - that holds the pads:

don't allow weight on the line - I put mine up on the front control arm, until I'm ready to remove the line:


these screws are TOUGH to remove - so be quite careful when you do it. What worked for me was some PB Blaster, then tapping in a good screwdriver w/ a hammer, then leaning into the tool with one arm/hand, and turning with the other:


Here is the new rotor and new brake line on there:

drivers' side:


this may be as far as I get tonight:


compare of the OEM vs. the SS lines:


the battlezone - it's a mess out there:

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Old July 12th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #1086 (permalink)
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looks good, not messy at all who are you kidding?! How many hours did it take to for all of that so far?
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Old July 12th, 2011, 12:58 PM   #1087 (permalink)
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^Hmmmm.......I'd say a good 6 or 7 hours. Thanks for encouragement, I need to get this finished today if I can
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Old July 12th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #1088 (permalink)
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beer helps, but not too many
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Old July 12th, 2011, 02:23 PM   #1089 (permalink)
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I spy some purrrrty D2's haha so jealous!!! I need MOAR MONIES
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Old July 12th, 2011, 03:57 PM   #1090 (permalink)
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beer helps, but not too many
hahaha oh I know that for sure! got my miller high life tall boy waiting for after work here. sorry ass beer but it's cheap so what's a guy gonna do, you know?
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Old July 12th, 2011, 03:58 PM   #1091 (permalink)
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I spy some purrrrty D2's haha so jealous!!! I need MOAR MONIES
oh man those D2s are one of my very favorite mods/parts on my car. they are just sick. and yeah I hear you about money - I need $2500 for my Delta Cams head work and have NO IDEA where I'm going to get that....ho boy....
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Old July 12th, 2011, 04:49 PM   #1092 (permalink)
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ahhhhh painting the calipers, boy do i remeber that headache! buy some caliper eclipse decals from tearstone, it compliments the look
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Old July 12th, 2011, 05:15 PM   #1093 (permalink)
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^good idea! thanks man! I will do that.

currently trying to bleed them shits out. not easy with one person...or at least not for me.

but the new rotors, ss lines, and the painted calips look pretty damn sweet, imo. I'll get some final pics soon. I need to fix my oil line before I take the car down.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 05:16 PM   #1094 (permalink)
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and I'll say/post it again - nothing feels better then the torque wrench "pop" as I hit the correct torque spec while putting these back in place. you KNOW you've done the job right. service manual/torque specs + torque wrench = peace of mind and happiness/joy/satisfaction/etc.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 05:25 PM   #1095 (permalink)
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ahhhhh painting the calipers, boy do i remeber that headache! buy some caliper eclipse decals from tearstone, it compliments the look
When I ever get around to Brembos I am going to sand them down repaint them and have it say "MiVEC"
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Old July 12th, 2011, 05:30 PM   #1096 (permalink)
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^sweet idea, man. I like.

I was thinking that maybe you could send me one of those decals you guys have and I could start representing down here....if you have any extra.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 05:31 PM   #1097 (permalink)
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I dont have any of those decals but I can order one if you would like

So far its me, the 300zx who beat me in that video (who is even faster than before now... damn him) and the Boosted Rx-7


EDIT: http://udown.com/stickers.php

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Old July 13th, 2011, 12:56 PM   #1098 (permalink)
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Calipers Painted, SS Brake Lines & Slotted Rotors Installed...

Ok, here are some pics I snapped just now and some from the install. I am not done replacing the oil line just yet, but I rolled it out to get some shots in the sun. I ran an errand in my wifes car, came back up the street and saw my car sitting in the driveway and was like "whoa - who's badass shit is that? - oh yeah, THAT'S MINE!" I was pretty amazed at the detail and subtle improvement it added sitting in the sun - w/out the front bumper on even.








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Old July 13th, 2011, 01:10 PM   #1099 (permalink)
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that's one bad-ass car fo sho' Joe!!!!
great work, i'm sincerely impressed !!!! i do hope to see that beast in person one day...
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Old July 13th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #1100 (permalink)
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^thanks so much Pat. you are welcome any time you can make it down to the middle of the states. the 4g Outpost in OK is at my house/garage.

yeah I knew it would look better but was really surprised at how much the painted calipers and all improved the detail and subtle style. I wish I could get it running and out on the road again - gotta get this oil line fixed. I bought the wrong sized hose and am stuck trying to make that work (cost $40) instead of getting another one.

an update on the 6G75 you sold me: got about 75% cleaned as good as possible and inspected for damage. I don't see any on the block or the heads, but obviously need a professional to look at it and go over it w/ whatever machines they use to do that.

I'm going to send the heads to Delta Cams as soon as I can get $2500 together, and then send the throttlebody to ProFlow to be rebored to 67mm. Then I need to get the block machined to accept the new pistons. Once those three source jobs are complete, I should be able to start to assemble the engine. I need to buy a new upper oil pan and crank cap, but I think that is all. Everything else should work, I believe. The engine will be rock solid and one of the baddest 6G75s out there - IF I can ever get all the work done. but it sure is a fun ride, regardless! It's been a lot of fun working on it and even just thinking about it. Just gotta take my time and make sure I get everything right or it could all blow up in my face - literally!

thanks again for the kind words AND the motor! If I hadn't got that from you, my car would be parked and on the sidelines for who knows how long while I got all the source jobs done and built the engine. But since I have 2 of almost everything I can build one and run the other! It's great! and thanks of course for the very fair price you gave me on that engine. Hell, it cost me more to get it shipped/imported than it did to buy it from you!
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Old July 13th, 2011, 02:30 PM   #1101 (permalink)
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The brakes look awesome joe. What kind of paint did you use for the calipers?
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Old July 13th, 2011, 02:34 PM   #1102 (permalink)
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^thanks Preston - yeah I was hesitant to do it, thinking it wouldn't be very good, but was very surprised w/ the results. turned out well. just took my time, did a couple of coats on each part (2 parts on each wheel) then did some touch-up where needed, letting it all dry overnight and all.

I used "VHT High Temperature Caliper Paint" - Color: 'Real Red'

I am quite pleased. the slotted/drilled rotors and SS lines most people aren't going to notice, but for those of us w/ an eye for that kind of detail I was very pleased with the way it's all turned out.
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Old July 13th, 2011, 02:35 PM   #1103 (permalink)
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well Joe, i sure hope the engine works out for you... i wouldnt have the skills to do 0.01% of what you're doing with it, so someone may as well use it... i know shipping was a huge PITA, word of caution for whoever will be buying an engine outside of the States next !!!

the engine ran strong before it blew up, so if there's no apparent damage, you should be OK !!

good luck with the build, i'm glad i could somewhat help you, haha...

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Old July 13th, 2011, 09:39 PM   #1104 (permalink)
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^are you kidding, Pat? getting that engine from you is an ENORMOUS help. I can't tell you how much trouble, time, fun, enjoyment, use, etc. you saved me. Like I said - if I had to sideline my car to build the engine, it could have been a YEAR for all I know. Now I can just sit back, research, work at my own pace, and enjoy my car while I'm building the other power plant and getting it ready to swap. Once I have my new 6G75 machined w/ delta cams work (valves, springs, retainers, honed, polished, welded & grinded cams), rebored w/ new forged pistons & rods, prepped for the SC (oil line from blower to the oil pan), new gaskets (metal), new head studs/bolts, new injectors, intake spacers, it will be all but bulletproof and she'll be ready to just swap right in - a days work and she'll be a fire-breathing bitch. It may be a day far off in the future, but I can't tell you how big of deal it is that I got that other motor from you. I can't overstate my appreciation.
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Old July 13th, 2011, 09:55 PM   #1105 (permalink)
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Dang Joey, I didn't think it would make like that big of a difference but I can see in that picture where it's reflecting off the front rim lip it looks really nice and add some flavor to the car. Now the true test of till will be to see how long they will last the bright, only will tell. I'm pretty sure for a while though
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Old July 13th, 2011, 09:57 PM   #1106 (permalink)
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there are 7 different modifications in this 1 picture (one slightly off screen)
  1. drilled/slotted rotors
  2. trailing arm bushing (barely offscreen to the right)
  3. Injen SES 3" exhaust
  4. Eibach rear sway
  5. D2 coilover
  6. steel brake lines
  7. painted calipers
+ (3 more not included in the shot - the rim, lugs & tire - all not stock)
  1. Falken tires
  2. XXR 502 Rim
  3. Muteki Lug Nuts

that pleases me. a great deal.
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Old July 13th, 2011, 11:58 PM   #1107 (permalink)
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Cost of Supercharger

Hey Joe,
I oppologize in advance as im still learning the website. Im looking at possible putting in a turbo or supercharger on my 2008 eclipse. I live in Canada and have been having some problems recieving information on costs. Any way you can give me a 'guestimation' of what it would cost to have supercharger put in. I appreciate it.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 12:06 AM   #1108 (permalink)
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damn joey wish you lived down here in the south so i could see this beast in person. Definitely be over to help with bleeding the brake lines/drinking some beers. Shits looking ridiculously awesome, ha even without that front bumper of yours.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #1109 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joeyb View Post
well, I don't know that we do, exactly, but I am hoping the universal kind you can buy will work...I think AEM makes some?


AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears UNIVERSAL - Lightning Motorsports - Made with bits of real lightning, so you know it's good !
No no no no no no no no

Get this.

Camshaft Gear Vernier - 6G7 SOHC 24v

It's the Fidanza Adjustable Timing gear that RPW sells for the 6G7* series engines. The 6G75 is listed under the application list.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 01:24 PM   #1110 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chauchy08 View Post
Hey Joe,
I oppologize in advance as im still learning the website. Im looking at possible putting in a turbo or supercharger on my 2008 eclipse. I live in Canada and have been having some problems recieving information on costs. Any way you can give me a 'guestimation' of what it would cost to have supercharger put in. I appreciate it.
Chauchy
Welcome to the club, man.

My best guess, for as cheap as possible, 4 - 7 lbs of boost on a stage 1 set-up, you could do for around $5 - 6K. Supercharging seems to be a hair easier, but you still need good headers and an exhaust system to go with it, not to mention fuel control - most likely by the AEM F/IC w/ harness. You'll need to pay a dyno shop to tune you properly and probably you'd want at least a clutch upgrade and possibly larger injectors, depending on how high of boost you are wanting. That is for a stage 1, no internal work.

For stage II or III, pushing 10 - 15 lbs, you'll want a fully upgraded suspension w/ tires, injectors, bushings, stiffy, LSD, clutch, and internals if you go too high on the power. All of this could go $10 - $15K.

let me know if I can be of further assistance.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 01:25 PM   #1111 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by deprydation View Post
No no no no no no no no

Get this.

Camshaft Gear Vernier - 6G7 SOHC 24v

It's the Fidanza Adjustable Timing gear that RPW sells for the 6G7* series engines. The 6G75 is listed under the application list.
Ok I see, thanks man! I will do that.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 01:27 PM   #1112 (permalink)
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damn joey wish you lived down here in the south so i could see this beast in person. Definitely be over to help with bleeding the brake lines/drinking some beers. Shits looking ridiculously awesome, ha even without that front bumper of yours.
Yeah man, I wish I lived closer to some of you guys. Well maybe someday I'll make it out there or you'll come through the heartland. thanks for the props! I'm pretty pleased w/ the outcome thus far.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 05:17 PM   #1113 (permalink)
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Dang Joey, I didn't think it would make like that big of a difference but I can see in that picture where it's reflecting off the front rim lip it looks really nice and add some flavor to the car. Now the true test of till will be to see how long they will last the bright, only will tell. I'm pretty sure for a while though
thanks man. yeah I'm really happy with the results. for some reason those wheel wells were looking a little dull to me - now they don't; they look detailed and "sophisticated" for lack of a better expression.

I would now recommend painting calipers to anyone wanting a cheap way to improve their cars looks. HOWEVER - removing them and reinstalling them is no simple trick if you haven't done it before. You have to bleed the brakes, and that really is a two person job, I've found. You CAN do it by yourself, but it seems to take twice as long at least.
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Old July 26th, 2011, 12:10 PM   #1114 (permalink)
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Oh this is so funny. I was looking at your rotor install and saw a spot on one of the rotors that I recognized as where my dog Cleo drooled on it. I'm sure it disappeared the first spin around the block but now even Cleo can claim input into your build
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Old July 26th, 2011, 12:20 PM   #1115 (permalink)
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Here are a few things that came to mind while re-reading your thread.

Has anyone looked in to see if cross-drilling the crank would beneficial. This second hole on the transverse side of the crank at each main journal allows twice the oil flow to the main bearings.

To see imperfections in cylinder walls you need a interior micrometer which would measure the inside diameter of each bore. Used to detect any out-of-round of the bore. Not really necessary if you are boring 1mm like I plan to. The magni-flux mentioned earlier is a really neat process. They magnetize the block and sprinkle iron filings on to it. Any cracks at all and the filling line up and point to the crack from all directions.

Just for info purposes and not needed here. There is a process called shot penning which can be used to harden rods. It amounts to bombarding the part with iron shot before re-machining. This is a form of forging.

I had some more points I wanted to comment on but they have escaped me right now but I have not gone completely senile....yet and they will pop back into my head and I will add them later on

Great thread Joe.....keep up the good work
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Old July 26th, 2011, 12:21 PM   #1116 (permalink)
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this is great for doing brakes
Brake Bleeder Tool V-12 DIY
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Old July 26th, 2011, 12:28 PM   #1117 (permalink)
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this is great for doing brakes
Brake Bleeder Tool V-12 DIY
I just use aquarium tubing and an old jar. Not as good but does the trick. Brembos are a whole new nightmare to bleed with two petcocks for each wheel (due to the 4 pistons/front and two pistons/rear). You bleed the inner side first and then the outer....luckily after failing miserably at my first attempt trying to bleed both simultaneously I found a write-up on the net.
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Old July 27th, 2011, 01:34 AM   #1118 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NitroGlisson View Post
Here are a few things that came to mind while re-reading your thread.

Has anyone looked in to see if cross-drilling the crank would beneficial. This second hole on the transverse side of the crank at each main journal allows twice the oil flow to the main bearings.

To see imperfections in cylinder walls you need a interior micrometer which would measure the inside diameter of each bore. Used to detect any out-of-round of the bore. Not really necessary if you are boring 1mm like I plan to. The magni-flux mentioned earlier is a really neat process. They magnetize the block and sprinkle iron filings on to it. Any cracks at all and the filling line up and point to the crack from all directions.

Just for info purposes and not needed here. There is a process called shot penning which can be used to harden rods. It amounts to bombarding the part with iron shot before re-machining. This is a form of forging.

I had some more points I wanted to comment on but they have escaped me right now but I have not gone completely senile....yet and they will pop back into my head and I will add them later on

Great thread Joe.....keep up the good work
thanks for the props and the parts, Don. my car is nothing like your on the outside, and pretty soon you'll have one of the baddest rides on this bitch. I'm sure you have pictures of your Boss somewhere, I need to see that, but I can't imagine it was as cool as the eclipse has become. I am definately going to at least look into cross/counter drilling the crank like you are saying - that is such a good idea.
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Old July 27th, 2011, 01:38 AM   #1119 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroGlisson View Post
Oh this is so funny. I was looking at your rotor install and saw a spot on one of the rotors that I recognized as where my dog Cleo drooled on it. I'm sure it disappeared the first spin around the block but now even Cleo can claim input into your build
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Old July 27th, 2011, 11:13 AM   #1120 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joeyb View Post
thanks for the props and the parts, Don. my car is nothing like your on the outside, and pretty soon you'll have one of the baddest rides on this bitch. I'm sure you have pictures of your Boss somewhere, I need to see that, but I can't imagine it was as cool as the eclipse has become. I am definately going to at least look into cross/counter drilling the crank like you are saying - that is such a good idea.
When I bored and stroked my '68 Camero's 327 and made a 356 out of it ....I had the crank cross-drilled. Did the same on the Boss 351 Mustang with both of the cranks I put in that. I know it is off benefit to small block V-8 but need someone who knows the Mitsu V-6 to really make the call. It doesn't really weaken the crank since it is inside the main bearing.....all cranks that I have broken (3) broke in between the mains...not inside of them.
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