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Old December 13th, 2014, 11:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Toxic's turbo build gt

WELL its winter and I have decided to commence my plans for boost as I am not driving the car for the coming months.

In short I am starting from the block up and moving towards the rear mount turbo setup later in the winter months.

I have ordered a lot of minor things like braided lines ETC ETC

now working on Ross parts for the block and deciding about head work....

Will be plenty of updates to come lots of new parts already on their way

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Old December 14th, 2014, 08:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What kind do boost/hp are you going for?
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Old December 14th, 2014, 08:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just change the pistons, injectors, and headers, port and Polish with a good tune and call it a day. No reason to go crazy like i did. This is just my third time attempting to boost this platform and got into it way too deep. With just those mods 15-17psi should get you close to 500hp. Stocks rod are forged and can handle that power, plus you aren't going to find a set of rods anyways. Just leave the bore alone she lower the compressions on the Pistons. Im $20000 into my build and I haven't even started boost yet. There's no reason to go overkill like I did. I'm kicking myself for how much money I spent. You don't need rods, arp studs, cams, valve springs, oversize pisyons, all that machining. As far as motor just change the pistons and that's it. Stock size lower compression.
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Old December 14th, 2014, 09:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I agree for the most part, only ARP fasteners for a ' stock+ ' build would be rod bolts and main studs, you also really should go with Clevite, King or (if you can find them) ACL bearings, if you are feeling peckish, Mitsubishi replacement 6g74 bearings are also very good. You can totally use none MIVEC 6g75 pistons to lower your compression to 10.0:1 too, and those can be had for less than $30 a pistons off of Rock Auto, only thing you need to do with them for boost is to increase the ring gap and have a good tune. It is a somewhat of a sad reality for the 6g75 engine when it comes to building, quite a lot has to be custom, but it is possible to do a full off the shelf build (I'm doing that with my all motor build) with almost entirely aftermarket parts sans block, heads and crank, it does take a lot more patience and digging though, I'm 3 years into my engine build, and it is will be up and running after a year of delays due to personal stuff and getting parts, you can do it in way less time, but you will either have to shoot for less power (like what Twilson said, this would be stock plus), or spend way more money on custom parts
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Old December 14th, 2014, 10:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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To be honest my game plan is REALIABILITY number one, I don't want to get mid 400 hp and start blowing shit up. I want to be thorough but I also don't want to spend cash anywhere I don't need to. So the bore is pointless?? just lower comp pistons rod bolts and main studs, bearings? seems too easy loll.

the less I have to buy right now the better as labor is one thing but the exchange rate for Canadians SUCKS right now....

I just bought port and pol upper intake manifold that another member had for sale, and am leaning towards the heads that are for sale on here, I am putting in the LSD once I get a clutch but have been searching for one for over two weeks just trying to research so I don't end up going in there twice....

This is my first time touching rear mount so its a learning lesson all around. overall goal will be anywhere over 400 I cant see 500 being usable without the AWD swap which I don't have planned in the near future..... my foundation at this point is solid I think I have full poly mounts and bushings as stated earlier I am putting in the LSD and better clutch. I don't plan on touching the oil lines and cooling until the block is complete.

The Turbo I am buying is the ball bearing GT3076R, which is only good for 500HP.


What kind of HP do you plan to get FOX_Brand??

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Old December 14th, 2014, 10:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Reliability is a very good plan, boring the block has its own set of considerations, not that it is pointless, to get the most out of it (best ring seal and so on), a torque plate is a must, I can quite literally count the number of torque plates for the 6g7 engine family on the planet that will work with the 95+ mm bore sizes (stock bore for the 6g75 is 95 mm), you also have to consider the renting cost of one, and the cost of machine work as well, in addition to the cost of bigger pistons and corresponding rings. You can even swing for stronger rods, which are the 6g74 rods, which are in theory stronger, they have thicker beams, I say in theory because nobody has actually broken a 6g74 or 6g75 rod other than a rod bolt failure, so the limits are unknown, the downside with the 6g74 rods are they are heavier, on the order that they effectively add the mass of another connecting rod to your rotating assemble (in net). But, if you go for the rod bolts and have your rods stock cryo treated, you should be ok. 400 whp is totally doable, I see no reason why you can't do that if everything properly built, but also 400 whp is a lot of power for front wheel drive, I would also recommend getting a roll cage and better brakes in the future
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Old December 14th, 2014, 11:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Great Info I appreciate the help!! Brakes will be the final piece by the end of winter. any idea why acl beairngs are hard to find?
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Old December 14th, 2014, 11:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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not too many people carry them to be honest, if I remember right, ACL discontinued the main sets

my target is at least 350 whp all motor, I have been told that it is on the low side of what I should put down
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Old December 15th, 2014, 12:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Just a heads up on the 75 rods. They are super weak in comparison to the rest of the 6gxx series rods. Various members tapped out near the 400 hp mark. 74 rods are better but you still have to balance the assembly. Might as well go custom for a few hundred more.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 12:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm going to be honest, I really haven't seen that many 6g75 rod failures, are they more common on the 3s side?
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Old December 15th, 2014, 01:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Actually I need to correct myself. It was the 74 that maxed out around 400 hp under boost. The 75 rod is considerably narrower and lighter. That means even less hp. I talked with a few members that were doing 3.5 liter swaps and ran into this problem.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 01:45 AM   #12 (permalink)
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where they using the stock rod bolts?
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Old December 15th, 2014, 09:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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not certain.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 10:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Damn, you're doing everything I wanted to do /planned, but i didn't have the 20Gs for forged pistons assembly and mods below:

I wanted to get it forged /Super charged, evo x fuel pump, pink subbi fuel injectors 565cc i believe, braided lines, LSD, stage 1 clutch masters, custom S/C build, gully rebuilt exhaust system , but it got too pricey.

What i decided to do instead since im pretty happy with the car, id just want it to perform a bit better /handle/manage its HP more proficiently since i wont be on the track racing it but just kicking it on the streets.

*LSD /Stage 1 clutch masters
*Teflon virgin grade ptfe spacers (custom made from USA, NY) 1cm thick. For intake plenum and throttle body
*ceramic coated intake plenum/exhaust headers, powder coated SRI pipe AND powder coat its metal heat shield so its actually a heat shield.
*Gspeed demon hood to go with SRI
*rebuilt exhaust from front to back
*tuned to perform with these parts

That's just over 5000ish. Im sure I'll be happy with that. Just about 300hp but itll be able to manage what it has alot better so itll def will like a new ride.

I just wanted to jump in cuz its been a while since someone actually posted something recent with builds/mods and i have no one with common interests to talk to...

Hey toxic i don't know how much research /time you put into lurking on the forums but heres a few links for manuals a member shared with me.

2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse Technical Information Manual | Tearstone

2006 Eclipse Factory Service Manual | Tearstone

These helped me quite a bit and hope if you haven't seen it hopefully it will help you as well. Suggestion if you're going to be printing all 500 pages, i took three 3"ring binders and made a binder for a) all electrical related to car, b) all manual mechanical reference for the car, c) last binder was everything from this forum for future ref. I also sleeved every page to keep it protected. It took quite a few hours to sleeve em all but it was worth it. I dont see this website lasting forever so with ppl like JoeyB, jeep360,hackish,the guy with vegeta avatar,popsgt,horseeater, all contributed some indepth answers to a lot of common mods/questions.

Im also most curious as to how your project goes. So I'll be lurking....

Side question, what is a great reliable shop in Calgary for custom work on imports? Edmonton over here, APEX are the only honest mechanics that do the work properly.

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Old December 15th, 2014, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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INDEX - Very Best Performance & Parts Threads

Forum FYI: Upgrades Needed for a Fully Built 4g Eclipse

Dont know if you seen these 2 posts, the Bottom one, Joey goes thru pretty much everything needed to fully rebuild the Eclipse so itll perform /handle better from 300 to 500hp. Its worth a look.

Cheers!
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Old December 15th, 2014, 11:44 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help Dead Capriocorn, I have done a lot of research over the last while but its always good to hear from peoples experience and you can never know too much when trying to build.

As for Rods im now deciding between custom or just the bearing the car has next to no miles as it doesn't drive in winter and that's a long time up here in Canada

Has anyone seen people coating there upper intake manifold a different colour? I was thinking of doing a black and gold theme while I am in the motor since I have the $$ I was going to do all parts black with Gold fittings throughout. but haven't seen a lot of people color more than just the head covers???

AND I love the upgrades thread I have studied that for the last two months

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Old December 15th, 2014, 12:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I talked to the guys at impact coatings in Edmonton a month ish ago, if you're going ceramic coating, the most durable is the chrome, but i believe black and dull gun metal grey are also available. For powder coating, the colors are endless.

I wanted to go black and purple on the inside since my cars orange on the outside. But exhaust headers are going to be chrome, so i might as well make the plenum chrome, rest will be candy purple/black. Its best to get the powder coating done all at once so the color consistency will be the same.

Coating plenum, headers, intake pipe should be about 6-800 ish depending on shop, type of coating etc. Its just a rough ballpark what to expect.

As for coating inside of intake plenum /piping i personally wont do it cuz of potential risk of paint flaking off and entering combustion chamber. Theres a debate on it still. I found consensus was to stay away where some say it wont happen.

If you're interested in the shop that does custom teflon spacers i can post his info. He does CnC too and can manufacture them. Hes located in NY, 'Murica. These spacers are on my to buy list. An intake plenum gasket raw teflon slab will be about 60$ (not. CNCd) i searched for about 20 min to find some one reliable that sells real ptfe grade teflon in custom sizes not a 8oo$ slab. And also dont buy teflon from china... Ur better off going to Walmart and getting a shitty cutting board then water jet cutting it (WHICH I DO NOT RECOMMEND).

The reason for the spacer is because even though the outside of you plenum is coated which is nice, the engine block still transfers heat up into the plenum because of their mating surfaces. And then the point of coating it is kind of a defeated purpose. And it may take longer to dissipate the heat from its self. (a point someone made) so that way REAL teflon spacers would actually help prevent heat soak, reduce the heat transfer into your intake. (also do a throttle body delete, if you haven't already since it's a summer car. This will stop the throttle body from getting hot/warming uo your air due to the coolant flowing through it)

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Old December 15th, 2014, 12:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The spacer i am going to add is 1cm thick, i already got the replacement bolts next grade up, cost maybe 5$ for plenum /throttle body bolts and the plenum cover bolts(3 of em).

If you add spacer i read that it will increase lower end torque with slight loss of HP because of the offset(going from memory) , but the way i see it is if you do coat the main guts of intake/exhaust, you will get alot more colder air into your system so that "loss" (which was done on a stock system) will not be experienced. The way i see it is that you are pushing in alot colder air than itd normally get, you're keeping it cold and then your car can push out the exhaust better(with aftermarket headers/Mufflers).

Hackish would be the guy to ask for sure tho, its his department. He posted dyno results somewhere.

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Old December 15th, 2014, 04:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Oh and before i forget /get busy, dont know if you switch your plugs out yourself but i recommend it. You'll save 600$ and it only takes a total of an hour if that to rip/replace (it took me about that the first time i did it, theres a lot unplugging unscrewing. Disassemble =counter clockwise, reassemble =clockwise, i had an old post with info, no pics)



Before you switch out plugs use seafoam injector cleaner (1/2 of can gets sucked thru brake Booster vacuum hose. Other half of can gets poured into gas tank. Let sit for 20min)

DO THIS OUTSIDE/AWAY FROM YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD!

Whats Needed:

*Seafoam injector cleaner
*2nd person to hold hose in can. Then signal you to kill the Engine when 1/2 has been consumed while you floor gas pedal trying to keep car alive
*pliers to undo the bracket for vacuum hose (i used a new hose same size cuz booster line was dirty, defeats purpose of cleaning injectors. I ran the hose off the plenum)

When the 20min is up, take car for a rip on Highway in high gear. I kept revs up at 4-5thou in 4th, drove for 20 min. You should notice that your cars producing alot of white smoke thats good. Its getting rid of carbon/garbage buildup.

Then switch plugs cuz they may be gunked/caked up a bit after all that Carbon getting blown out.

And once you pull off intake plenum use throttle body cleaner (x2 for me, @canadian tire, for 11$ a pop) so much garbage to clean out cuz of the PCV hose connected to the intake (just past MAF, facing /pointing to passenger side 10/11o clock looking at from front of car) oil catch can is proper way to do it. Common way is to just unplug from intake and cap it off. I believe that it also connects to plenum. Cap them off so you don't have airflow past MAF. DONT CAP OFF THE PCV HOSE! LET IT LAY THERE AND BLOW ITS FUMES OUT. (capping it will create a build up of pressure =bad)

I also took throttle body off and used a whole can to thoroughly clean it. I dont have a garage or second vehicle to let Eclipse sit while TB soaks overnight.

I personally switch plugs just before every summer or @ 20 thou for peak performance. After seeing plugs at 50,oookm i dont know why anyone who wants performance would let aparkplugs sit till they're past peak life and almost dead. Swapping out plugs to new ones i instantly noticed the difference in response. I did the injector cleaner cuz i was chatting with my mechanic buddy and i brought up that im feeling like my cars missing that umfph when i accelerate. He suggested seafoam from cantire (10$) and since he swore by it and he never really reps for a product like a fan girl i took his advice. Gotta say, damn. It was well worth the 10$. If you just drive and dont car for performance switch plugs out at 40thou or whenever if ever you want. This is what i do because i find it performs better. Its only 80$ i find it worth the money for payback i get.

If your intake plenum is royally dirty/carboned up, see if cantire has a "marine" aluminum safe carbon remover. Soak it over night.

And while your plenum is off. Seriously torque down every bolt you see. No lie. I was glad i did. Worst was a 1/2 turn on some bolts, best 1/4 turn. Just make sure they're to spec.


Off topic: if you're planning on getting aftermarket lugs DONT get aluminum ones. Seriously doesn't need explaining. Find steel forged ones and get them powder coated to a color of your liking.

This post is to help anyone out really, but I also posted this info cuz I know toxic you're doing some stuff and dunno if you know/did it already just hoping my personal experience can help you/anyone out.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 09:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Has anyone on here seen a page made for battery relocate? I want to do it and was trying to find a DIY on here....
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Old December 15th, 2014, 10:43 PM   #21 (permalink)
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http://tearstone.com/eclipse/032008024.JPG

Well I cant see not getting Ross to make me some rods after seeing how fragile they look net to the "non boost friendly 74 rods" I want to do this right the first time so looks like rods are a go for me on this build.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 11:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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the piston/rod assembly on the left is out of a 6g74, the one on the right is out of a 6g75, also Ross does not make connecting rods, the biggest thing with rods is using good rod bolts, Chargerx3, have you found out if the stock rod bolts caused the failure? I have seen killed rods due to a drop in oil pressure, which could be traced back to the main bolts (it did not have ARP main studs) stretching, this was one of the PR monster Mirages
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Old December 16th, 2014, 09:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Let me see if I can hunt those members down.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 11:25 AM   #24 (permalink)
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being that ross does not make anything I am not sure if ill even be able to track much down. those number will help, I will order those rod bolts and main studs then my pistons and I will see where I am at.

Back to the colour scheme, I am working on a mock design right now and will upload an image soon of what it will look like at an end result I did something similar with muy old Volkswagen awhile ago and was very happy with the result unfortunately the Shop that did the work no longer exists so it looks like I may be sending parts to Edmonton if I have no luck in Calgary....

If it goes as planned it will be (SHOW STATUS) I have seen some people on here do colour scheme engine bays but its all been plasti dip parts and cable covers would be cool if I could change it up a bit and perhaps try something nobody on here has done.

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Old December 16th, 2014, 12:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Toxic's turbo build gt

Ross makes pistons is all

And here you go, I know it say for the Diamante, but they will work
http://thmotorsports.com/arp/arp_con...4/i-61474.aspx
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Old December 16th, 2014, 01:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Does anyone know how much tourque the transaxle can take prior to exploding ???
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Old December 16th, 2014, 05:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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From my conversation:

Correct me if im wrong but didnt you do a 3.5 swap to your car. I recall you saying the 74 rods ended up not being able to handle more than 400hp is that correct? Also did you run factory rod bolts, or go aftermarket (ARP)?

Thanks,
Steve

I did a 3.5 swap but it was a 3.5L 6G72 stroker not the 74. The rods aren't that strong in the 74 motor. Around 400AWTQ they'll fail. It has been documented on here by a few people. Upgrading the bolts wouldn't help since it's the rod itself bending due to them being thin. You can get Wiseco pistons and 3SX rods cheap if on a budget or go with Ray's Ross pistons and Oliver rods.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 09:27 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeah I saw that swap thread! That's when I got thinking if the 74 rods bend and the 75 rods are thinner...........do the math
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Old December 17th, 2014, 12:23 AM   #29 (permalink)
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ok, well, that is the first I have heard of this to be honest, there are guys that are pushing near the 400 fwhp mark using stock rod 6g74's, but, very good to know, I do have to ask though, was this with JDM 6g74's, I do have to wonder if those rods are of a different forging, after all, the 6g75 rods do have 6g74 stamped on them, could you post up pictures of the damaged rods?
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Old December 17th, 2014, 01:02 AM   #30 (permalink)
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To be honest my game plan is REALIABILITY number one
turbo conversion (even with built block):

cheap, reliable, power...pick two
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Old December 17th, 2014, 02:14 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I have the money to build this out I just don't want to spend more than need or do things twice is all I know what I am getting into financially no cheap ong out here.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 09:04 AM   #32 (permalink)
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ok, well, that is the first I have heard of this to be honest, there are guys that are pushing near the 400 fwhp mark using stock rod 6g74's, but, very good to know, I do have to ask though, was this with JDM 6g74's, I do have to wonder if those rods are of a different forging, after all, the 6g75 rods do have 6g74 stamped on them, could you post up pictures of the damaged rods?
All US blocks and internals.
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Old December 19th, 2014, 04:30 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Hey guys have any of you had experience with bearings?? Just looking to find the pro and cons of different bearing brands or if they are all generally good on these cars?


Also does anyone make an aftermarket fuel rail for this motor or just stock
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Old December 19th, 2014, 09:18 PM   #34 (permalink)
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400 reliable HP is easy. Pistons, used Ripp supercharger and a meth kit. $3000 everything else stock

Don't even waste your time with a custom turbo kit.

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Old December 19th, 2014, 09:24 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ripp sold over 50 kits for 4G eclipses and the only problem that ever came up with as the Pistons. And that was only a handful of us. Most people were running 8psi 400+ no problems.
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Old December 19th, 2014, 11:38 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I won't be testing my luck with 74 or 75 rods in my build. Way too skinny to be considered reliable with a boosted motor.
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Old December 20th, 2014, 08:29 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Well here is where I am at now, I am going to be installing the ported and polished upper intak manifold aswell as the new port and polished heads once they arrive and I am going to tune the motor NA for now until the block work is done and my intercooling piping arrives. I still have to mock up the turbo/exhaust up to the front and get it welded then get into return lines ETC but that is down the road I am getting the upper manifold done in a dark chrome and haven't decided on the head cover colour yet but working on it (yes I changed my mind again lol)

I want to finish the build with a showcar engine nothing will be stock colours lol

Prior to installing the new heads with the stock Cams do you guys know of any good cams made for this motor I haven't really looked into it yet but will be

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Old December 22nd, 2014, 01:51 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Does anyone know if our rods hold up on a 12 to 1 compression???
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Old December 24th, 2014, 05:47 PM   #39 (permalink)
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According to ppl 400hp wont hold up as i safely assume higher compression ratio would put more continuous stress on piston assembly... You seen the pic of our actual rods compared to the 6g74?wow what a dif.... Tearstone.com has em up somewhere... Seriously get the 74 rods forged, and swapped. Double check to make sure 100 percent fitment but i would NOT trust the 75s rods even IF forged. I can do some digging to find pics. Your call tho. Better upgrade now than regret and rebuild engine later (again)



For cams RpW only ever made /tested them. Dunno if testing was ever complete but it's stage 1 a d they don't recommend anything more since our MIVEC cam is a fussy teenage girl. Its pretty crazy how they did profiles. Msg them and see. They're in Australia so cam is 1500+shipping. They can make a cam to your specsnif you wish as well.

If you swap cam, swap everything related to timing and valves, springs, ONCE ENGINE IS COMPLETED, USE TOW TRUCK TO HAUL IT TO TUNING SHOP.... Your car will not be ready to just drive n go. Get it properly tuned and spend the 800$.also replace all bearings related to cam, etc.

Look into ceramic coating your forged pistons as well. Its only couple extra hundred.


Heres the website :



Camshaft Billet 6G75 SOHC 24v Mivec
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Old December 24th, 2014, 05:54 PM   #40 (permalink)
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As mentioned by previous member. Left one is 74. The right one is ours, 75,the skinny one... Just puts a visual on it.

Ours forged may be strong enough, but if the 74 fits why not go forged with that? Its only going to be stronger and it'll still probably be lighter than stock weight.

But if you can find a real racing rod, go for it. There was an American company forget name, that they make wicked fat forged rods. I haven't delved into it so i dont know but ChargerX3 is correct better to go legit but if none can be found get ones forged from stock model.
Theres a good thread hidden within here about awesome rods. Check horseeaters profile or joeybs profile hopefully they have specific build listed or a thread made about their build.

Merry xmas!
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