Paint scratches / chips / lift / oxidation

Slippercream · February 27th, 2007, 02:14 AM

A common and age-old issue with Mitsus. Need not say too much, but MITSU PAINT is UBER-SOFT. As opposed to what you might find in a Ford or GM, Mitsu (Chrysler) paint scratches so easily, and is prone to chipping with road debris. Oxidation (hazy look on clearcoat layer that eventually starts looking like translucent mold) is also a related problem associated with the sub-par paint quality.

FYI, Mitsu uses 3 coats of base and 2 light coats of clear from the factory(someone care to refute, please do so as I could be wrong on this one).

Solution: Get a PPG paint job

... or House of Kolor or DuPont. Or Crayola - whichever suits your fancy.

Kilzod · February 27th, 2007, 05:00 AM

I had the problem that on my black 3G the (I assume) clear coats wore off and the paint eventually faded to white. Anyone who has a 3G or knows of someone who has this problem should probably check out www.mymitsubishipaintproblem.com

BEDAZZLED · February 27th, 2007, 08:48 AM

Or when you buy the car have extra coat of clear. I know a car that did that still looks like new and its a 99.

Russ · February 27th, 2007, 08:50 AM

My black Galant has the "cancer" something fierce. It is a 99 and looks like it was built in 79.

Xeo · February 27th, 2007, 05:47 PM

This may be true, but being OCD about your paint surely extends its life. Take time to wash it; don't let water spots bake on, don't use any harsh chemicals on your paint, keep a detailer spray and a microfiber towel in your trunk, and wax regularly. Use quality tools to wash and dry:

The Absorber - To eliminate towel clutter; safe to use on paint
California Water Blade - Cuts drying your car with a towel by half or more
MF mitt
Wheel-safe Brush

Just to name a few.

Kilzod · February 27th, 2007, 07:15 PM

I have heard that any sort of water blade is actually worse than towel-drying your car. Something along the lines that it scratches the paint more? Is this true? Because I have certainly considered buying one

And you should see my trunk. I keep all my cleaning stuff there. Wax, Rain-X, polish, wheel cleaner, car wash, like 2 shammys and 4 towels, etc etc.

Xeo · February 27th, 2007, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kilzod

I have heard that any sort of water blade is actually worse than towel-drying your car. Something along the lines that it scratches the paint more? Is this true? Because I have certainly considered buying one

That can be true depending on the condition of your blade; if you have any foreign objects between the blade and the paint, sure, there are going to be scratches. Just swipe the blade with a clean towel each time after swipe. It's medical grade silicone which doesn't scratch. You'll love it and it'll cut down the drying time greatly.

Slippercream · February 28th, 2007, 10:50 PM

Well, see, the one thing that logically could keep a finish healthy enough to not oxidize would be regular waxing.

Waxing does more than just make a car shinney - it actually keeps the paint healthy by natural (or artificial) agents that seep into the paint, reviving it just like you would the leather in your seats. Then there's also that bit about the layers of wax "protecting" your finish, though the hours of waxing really won't save you from rock chips.

I'd say if you're really concerned about the condition of your paint, keep a regular waxing schedule, and wax THICK and evenly. For headlights and certain prone portions of your front (as well as other body panels that may be subject to scratches and rock chips), use some kind of protectant film (like 3M's Scotchcal polyurethane film or similar products) to prevent easy scratches and chips. I'd suggest doing so for your plastic pieces as well (fogs, taillights, spoiler), since those are easy prey for scratches. At least for painted surfaces, waxing can take away light scratches.

Also, as an FYI, deep-surface cleaning such as using a claybar, will not fix oxidation-related problems.

BigWheels4g · May 10th, 2007, 05:11 PM

Well if you have a black eclipse you can also go with one of those magnum sharpies, I've heard they actually work pretty well.

Kilzod · May 10th, 2007, 11:50 PM

They didn't on my 3G :/

BigWheels4g · May 12th, 2007, 02:31 PM

Hmm well you should maybe go to a body shop and see if they can mix you some paint to match your car, and you can touch it up yourself.

Kilzod · May 12th, 2007, 10:19 PM

I ended up getting a little bottle of touch-up from the dealer when I bought my car

Xeo · May 19th, 2007, 01:19 PM

Just to add to the collection:

After coming back from the 5/5/07 AFM meet, I noticed there were white specks on all panels. I knew it was paint, and I was determined to clay them off, but didn't work because it had already hardened and bonded to my paint. Don't try paint cleaners, polish, and/or use rubbing compound as these will mar the finish.

Instead, go to a paint dealer and pick up a quart of reducer to activate the paint again so it can be easily removed. You will see hazing, but that is just evaporized residue.This will not mar your paint, so don't worry. You must wax afterward.

dr07gs · July 19th, 2007, 01:40 AM

I don't do much driving but my 4 month old Eclipse's front end looks like I have had it for a couple of years. The front end is pitted everywhere: bumper, lower valance, and hood, its ridiculous. I wash my car every week and have waxed it 2x already. I know that doesn't really prevent the paint chips and pittings, but with that, it really fucks up the appearance of the car, especially if you have a Kalapana black like me. I don't do much freeway driving, I keep a great distance from cars infront of me so that I don't get road dirt and debri that has been kicked up especially by trucks and semis.

I give up! My next car won't definitely be black.

Kilzod · July 19th, 2007, 06:28 PM

Yep. It's not that it's a bad color, it's just the fact that Mitsubishi doesn't put a lot of paint on their black cars. Check out the site I posted up earlier. I just hope nothing like that happens to the 4g.

Definately stay vigilant with the waxing/claybar, it'll keep your paint alive and kicking for as long as possible - There's really nothing you can do to keep the front bumper from chipping from rocks etc.

Xeo · July 19th, 2007, 08:16 PM

Unless you lay 3M Scotchgard protection film immediately after you take delivery of the car.

FLGTeclipse · July 19th, 2007, 10:24 PM

yah i noticed when i lowered the car i got more and more chips being lower o the road ...lol once i get enought stupid chiops everywhere and after i am dont modding the car it is off to paint lol

Slippercream · August 25th, 2007, 06:41 PM

Well, same as with the 3G, I see the crappy Mitsu/Chrysler paint as being a throw-away. I knew I was eventually going to have to have the car repainted, and this is, in many respects, a trial period for what I want to do with the exterior.

Just as with the brakes, the paint is pretty much something that has to be redone/replaced. I'll recommend PPG. DuPont, I heard, is tough as well. Either way, rock chips are, unfortunately, a fact of life next to death and taxes. An unpainted CF hood limits the amount of rock chips you get, if that's your thing. Else RockGuard or Scotchcal might solve your issues, but they can look tacky to a discriminating onlooker.

How bout you just keep distance and stay clear of pebble roads, dump trucks, and construction sites?

kxwhite · February 8th, 2008, 10:36 PM

ya i just had my front end redone in october and there are now 10-15 small pits and rock chips on my front. pretty annoying. but thats what happens when they have to sand the highways to melt all the ice in the winter months.

next car is not going to black and not drove in the winter!!!!

February 27th, 2007, 02:14 AM	#1 (permalink)
Slippercream AWOL, but still HDL-ing ! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Between Austin, Houston, and Hell on Earth Vehicle: 06 6MT GT-PP, 01 5MT GT-T Posts: 6,346 Rep Power: 16	Paint scratches / chips / lift / oxidation A common and age-old issue with Mitsus. Need not say too much, but MITSU PAINT is UBER-SOFT. As opposed to what you might find in a Ford or GM, Mitsu (Chrysler) paint scratches so easily, and is prone to chipping with road debris. Oxidation (hazy look on clearcoat layer that eventually starts looking like translucent mold) is also a related problem associated with the sub-par paint quality. FYI, Mitsu uses 3 coats of base and 2 light coats of clear from the factory(someone care to refute, please do so as I could be wrong on this one). Solution: Get a PPG paint job ... or House of Kolor or DuPont. Or Crayola - whichever suits your fancy.

May 10th, 2007, 05:11 PM	#9 (permalink)
BigWheels4g Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Los Angeles, California Vehicle: 07 Eclipse GS Posts: 470 Rep Power: 2	Well if you have a black eclipse you can also go with one of those magnum sharpies, I've heard they actually work pretty well. __________________ MODS: 19" Volk GT-S on Toyo T1R's. BIG WHEELS

May 12th, 2007, 02:31 PM	#11 (permalink)
BigWheels4g Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Los Angeles, California Vehicle: 07 Eclipse GS Posts: 470 Rep Power: 2	Hmm well you should maybe go to a body shop and see if they can mix you some paint to match your car, and you can touch it up yourself. __________________ MODS: 19" Volk GT-S on Toyo T1R's. BIG WHEELS

July 19th, 2007, 01:40 AM	#14 (permalink)
dr07gs Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 503 Rep Power: 2	I don't do much driving but my 4 month old Eclipse's front end looks like I have had it for a couple of years. The front end is pitted everywhere: bumper, lower valance, and hood, its ridiculous. I wash my car every week and have waxed it 2x already. I know that doesn't really prevent the paint chips and pittings, but with that, it really fucks up the appearance of the car, especially if you have a Kalapana black like me. I don't do much freeway driving, I keep a great distance from cars infront of me so that I don't get road dirt and debri that has been kicked up especially by trucks and semis. I give up! My next car won't definitely be black. __________________ -Dennis http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/229/sigaq8.jpg JUST THE AVERAGE GS WITH A FEW MINOR MODS.

July 19th, 2007, 10:24 PM	#17 (permalink)
FLGTeclipse Hockey Playa Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Coconut Creek, FL Posts: 1,954 Rep Power: 3	yah i noticed when i lowered the car i got more and more chips being lower o the road ...lol once i get enought stupid chiops everywhere and after i am dont modding the car it is off to paint lol __________________ http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...DSC_0318-1.jpg

		Mitsubishi Eclipse Forums > Performance and Technical > Problem Reports
Paint scratches / chips / lift / oxidation

February 27th, 2007, 05:00 AM	#2 (permalink)
Kilzod "Yayo" Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Vehicle: 2003 Eclipse GTS Posts: 4,158 Rep Power: 22	I had the problem that on my black 3G the (I assume) clear coats wore off and the paint eventually faded to white. Anyone who has a 3G or knows of someone who has this problem should probably check out www.mymitsubishipaintproblem.com

February 27th, 2007, 08:48 AM	#3 (permalink)
BEDAZZLED Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: concord, nc Posts: 36 Rep Power: 2	Or when you buy the car have extra coat of clear. I know a car that did that still looks like new and its a 99.

February 27th, 2007, 08:50 AM	#4 (permalink)
Russ Mitsubishi Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Orlando, FL Vehicle: Eclipse GT Posts: 2,344 Rep Power: 9	My black Galant has the "cancer" something fierce. It is a 99 and looks like it was built in 79.

February 27th, 2007, 05:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
Xeo Seminole Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: North Palm Beach Vehicle: '08 Eclipse GS Posts: 237 Rep Power: 2	This may be true, but being OCD about your paint surely extends its life. Take time to wash it; don't let water spots bake on, don't use any harsh chemicals on your paint, keep a detailer spray and a microfiber towel in your trunk, and wax regularly. Use quality tools to wash and dry: The Absorber - To eliminate towel clutter; safe to use on paint California Water Blade - Cuts drying your car with a towel by half or more MF mitt Wheel-safe Brush Just to name a few.

February 27th, 2007, 07:15 PM	#6 (permalink)
Kilzod "Yayo" Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Vehicle: 2003 Eclipse GTS Posts: 4,158 Rep Power: 22	I have heard that any sort of water blade is actually worse than towel-drying your car. Something along the lines that it scratches the paint more? Is this true? Because I have certainly considered buying one And you should see my trunk. I keep all my cleaning stuff there. Wax, Rain-X, polish, wheel cleaner, car wash, like 2 shammys and 4 towels, etc etc.

February 28th, 2007, 10:50 PM	#8 (permalink)
Slippercream AWOL, but still HDL-ing ! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Between Austin, Houston, and Hell on Earth Vehicle: 06 6MT GT-PP, 01 5MT GT-T Posts: 6,346 Rep Power: 16	Well, see, the one thing that logically could keep a finish healthy enough to not oxidize would be regular waxing. Waxing does more than just make a car shinney - it actually keeps the paint healthy by natural (or artificial) agents that seep into the paint, reviving it just like you would the leather in your seats. Then there's also that bit about the layers of wax "protecting" your finish, though the hours of waxing really won't save you from rock chips. I'd say if you're really concerned about the condition of your paint, keep a regular waxing schedule, and wax THICK and evenly. For headlights and certain prone portions of your front (as well as other body panels that may be subject to scratches and rock chips), use some kind of protectant film (like 3M's Scotchcal polyurethane film or similar products) to prevent easy scratches and chips. I'd suggest doing so for your plastic pieces as well (fogs, taillights, spoiler), since those are easy prey for scratches. At least for painted surfaces, waxing can take away light scratches. Also, as an FYI, deep-surface cleaning such as using a claybar, will not fix oxidation-related problems.

May 10th, 2007, 11:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
Kilzod "Yayo" Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Vehicle: 2003 Eclipse GTS Posts: 4,158 Rep Power: 22	They didn't on my 3G :/

May 12th, 2007, 10:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
Kilzod "Yayo" Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Vehicle: 2003 Eclipse GTS Posts: 4,158 Rep Power: 22	I ended up getting a little bottle of touch-up from the dealer when I bought my car

May 19th, 2007, 01:19 PM	#13 (permalink)
Xeo Seminole Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: North Palm Beach Vehicle: '08 Eclipse GS Posts: 237 Rep Power: 2	Just to add to the collection: After coming back from the 5/5/07 AFM meet, I noticed there were white specks on all panels. I knew it was paint, and I was determined to clay them off, but didn't work because it had already hardened and bonded to my paint. Don't try paint cleaners, polish, and/or use rubbing compound as these will mar the finish. Instead, go to a paint dealer and pick up a quart of reducer to activate the paint again so it can be easily removed. You will see hazing, but that is just evaporized residue.This will not mar your paint, so don't worry. You must wax afterward.

July 19th, 2007, 06:28 PM	#15 (permalink)
Kilzod "Yayo" Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lexington, SC Vehicle: 2003 Eclipse GTS Posts: 4,158 Rep Power: 22	Yep. It's not that it's a bad color, it's just the fact that Mitsubishi doesn't put a lot of paint on their black cars. Check out the site I posted up earlier. I just hope nothing like that happens to the 4g. Definately stay vigilant with the waxing/claybar, it'll keep your paint alive and kicking for as long as possible - There's really nothing you can do to keep the front bumper from chipping from rocks etc.

July 19th, 2007, 08:16 PM	#16 (permalink)
Xeo Seminole Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: North Palm Beach Vehicle: '08 Eclipse GS Posts: 237 Rep Power: 2	Unless you lay 3M Scotchgard protection film immediately after you take delivery of the car.

August 25th, 2007, 06:41 PM	#18 (permalink)
Slippercream AWOL, but still HDL-ing ! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Between Austin, Houston, and Hell on Earth Vehicle: 06 6MT GT-PP, 01 5MT GT-T Posts: 6,346 Rep Power: 16	Well, same as with the 3G, I see the crappy Mitsu/Chrysler paint as being a throw-away. I knew I was eventually going to have to have the car repainted, and this is, in many respects, a trial period for what I want to do with the exterior. Just as with the brakes, the paint is pretty much something that has to be redone/replaced. I'll recommend PPG. DuPont, I heard, is tough as well. Either way, rock chips are, unfortunately, a fact of life next to death and taxes. An unpainted CF hood limits the amount of rock chips you get, if that's your thing. Else RockGuard or Scotchcal might solve your issues, but they can look tacky to a discriminating onlooker. How bout you just keep distance and stay clear of pebble roads, dump trucks, and construction sites?

February 8th, 2008, 10:36 PM	#19 (permalink)
kxwhite Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Chauvin, AB Posts: 505 Rep Power: 3	ya i just had my front end redone in october and there are now 10-15 small pits and rock chips on my front. pretty annoying. but thats what happens when they have to sand the highways to melt all the ice in the winter months. next car is not going to black and not drove in the winter!!!! __________________ 06 GS with a ton of mods.