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Old August 29th, 2010, 02:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS!!!
 
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no pressure from clutch pedal

everything was fine until i had to make a sudden stop. my foot slipped off the clutch before i had gotten the car out of gear then after two more shift the pedal went all the way down with no resistance. cant get into gear or anything. had to push the car a few blocks home. What could it be? slave and/or master cylinder?
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Old August 29th, 2010, 06:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Start T-Shooting with this, clutch system:

http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...0003300-21.pdf
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Old August 29th, 2010, 07:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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its most likely fried same thing happened to me when mine went.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah on my old car when the clutch went it did the same thing. felt like nothing was there
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Old August 29th, 2010, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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make sure the line is checked first. on an older car i had, i had the same symptoms but we found out it was just a hole in the line. $40 vs $400.. hope its resolved soon
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Old August 29th, 2010, 05:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My first thought was slave cylinder. Usually the clutch smells a little or shows some signs of slippage before it just goes. Unless it lets loose when you're beating its ass, and then you can have catastrophic clutch failure hahaha.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 06:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS!!!
 
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i went out and checked for leaks in the line and everything was still dry. soo on to the cylinder. doesnt seem hard to change once i take the battery and intake out
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Old August 30th, 2010, 11:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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shop gave me a list a stuff thats wrong. main thing, there appears to be a crack in my bellhousing, axel is bad, and some other crap, and cylinder is bad. master and slave
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Old August 31st, 2010, 04:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Well let us know how things turn out. Are you going to try and cover any of this under warranty ??
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Old August 31st, 2010, 02:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm at 70k miles. Don't think I could get that under warranty if I tried
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Old September 1st, 2010, 03:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm at 70k miles. Don't think I could get that under warranty if I tried
Depends on if you are the first owner or not, how modded you are, how anal the dealership is. Maybe a pipe dream.
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Old September 1st, 2010, 06:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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well this other place says everything will be fine with just the master and slave cylinder. my question is, how do they both go out at the same time? they just called and said they need to pull the transmission anyway to do the slave cylinder. ugh, if i knew that i would have ordered a lsd and had them put it in. but when they called not long ago they said that they got fluid to come out to where the line ends at the bellhousing. howd they do that yet they say i need a master and slave cylinder. I asked how did they both go out almost instanly without me noticing anything before hand. His reply was that the slave could be bad but the master will work harder until it just goes out... wtf?
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Old September 1st, 2010, 07:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The LSD install is much more involved than simply dropping the tranny. The tranny itself needs to be split, and carefully dissassembled for the LSD install. No fun.

I think honestly they don't know if its the master or slave so they are just going to replace both to cover their asses. And if they are pulling the tranny you better make sure you do a clutch while its out at least, you'll kick yourself in the ass later!!
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Old September 1st, 2010, 07:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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that clutch isnt that old. maybe 20,000 miles on it. i just dont want to pay to have the transsmission pulled if i dont need to. i dont remember seeing the service manual mention anything about that much work to change the slave or master cylinders
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 12:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If the price of the parts arn't that expensive, change them both as preventive maintenance. It's kind of like the timing belt, change the water pump at the same time to save on labor costs. If you don't change the water pump, 10/20 thousand miles down the road when the water pump does go, you have to pay for the same labor charges again. I.E. they have to remove the same parts for a timing belt, as the do for a water pump. But this type maintnance also applies with brakes and tires, they should be changed as pairs.

I'm not sure if this is the same case with master and slave cylinders, but...
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 12:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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labor to change master cylinder is 150, and labor for slave cylinder is 700
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 03:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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wait, everywhere i look it says that a sympton of a bad master or slave cylinder is low fluid, my fluid was still full
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Old September 3rd, 2010, 05:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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well i just got off the phone with the shop. They say that the slave cylinder is inside the bellhousing and they need to test it because they bled the system and filled it and they said theres fluid leaking out the bellhousing
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Old September 14th, 2010, 07:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
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soo i finally got time to actually get under my hoodnow that the car is back at the house and the damn slave is in the bellhousing but i dont think thats the problem. i tried to bleed the lines and no pressure. from the looks of it the bleeder valve is before the slave soo i figure i should be getting fluid atleast to there. soo im thinking bad slave. next free day i have im going to take out the master and see.
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Old October 15th, 2010, 01:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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soo i finally got time to actually get under my hoodnow that the car is back at the house and the damn slave is in the bellhousing but i dont think thats the problem. i tried to bleed the lines and no pressure. from the looks of it the bleeder valve is before the slave soo i figure i should be getting fluid atleast to there. soo im thinking bad slave. next free day i have im going to take out the master and see.
So what happened with your car??

I'm new on the forum, but I've owned my Eclipse about four years now. Tonight I was driving my car to pick up my daughter from dance class. I was traveling south east on a local road I attempted to shift my car into 2nd gear, but my clutch pedal lost all pressure and went completely to the floorboard. Once that happened I could not shift my car at all. It was a bad situation because I was stranded in the middle of the road and oncoming cars were not yielding. I called my wife and she came to assist me. In the mix we called our insurance company for a tow truck and while I was waiting I disconnected the battery, but that did nothing. I attempted to move the shifter and push on the clutch pedal, however no success. My car does start, but that is it. If any members here have some good advice I would really appreciate it.

-T-

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Old October 15th, 2010, 02:41 AM   #21 (permalink)
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its a lot that could be wrong. Try bleeding the line and checking for leaks, but if that's not the case, then it maybe a bad cylinder. You could check the master cylinder but everywhere I went says if one is out then both should be changed. We have a concentric slave, inside the transmission. A ton of labor for a 150 dollar part. To tell if its the master have someone get in the car pop the hood and start hitting the clutch pedal and see if the fluid in the reservior moves, it shouldn't. There's a way to pull it out and check if you wanna pull it apart and check seals and stuff.
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Old October 15th, 2010, 03:05 AM   #22 (permalink)
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its a lot that could be wrong. Try bleeding the line and checking for leaks, but if that's not the case, then it maybe a bad cylinder. You could check the master cylinder but everywhere I went says if one is out then both should be changed. We have a concentric slave, inside the transmission. A ton of labor for a 150 dollar part. To tell if its the master have someone get in the car pop the hood and start hitting the clutch pedal and see if the fluid in the reservior moves, it shouldn't. There's a way to pull it out and check if you wanna pull it apart and check seals and stuff.
I feel sick right now because this seems like a major repair. This car has been a headache from the beginning. One week after I bought it there was a recall on the master brake cylinder. They replaced that and then squeaky brakes occurred, which I have had squeaky brakes ever since. I noticed my clutch was acting stiff early yesterday morning, however it did not seem like a problem. Why is there no indication light? I am so aggravated right now. My biggest worry is that they will not cover it with my power-train warranty, because I have been researching it for the past few hours and everyone has commented it is not covered. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but if it is I will never buy a Mitsubishi again. My car only has 42,524 miles on it and those miles are very easy miles. I cannot believe it is experiencing this failure so soon. Any comments?

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Old October 15th, 2010, 03:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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make sure the line is checked first. on an older car i had, i had the same symptoms but we found out it was just a hole in the line. $40 vs $400.. hope its resolved soon
How do I locate this line you are talking about and how do you test it?

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Old October 15th, 2010, 05:17 AM   #24 (permalink)
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you see where the brake fluid is? follow the black tube going to the right, to the master. check that line, then follow along and check the line coming out the master thats going to the transmission
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Old October 15th, 2010, 05:19 AM   #25 (permalink)
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and i dont think its covered by warranty. i didnt know they had a recal on the master cylinder though. you sure?
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Old October 15th, 2010, 05:23 AM   #26 (permalink)
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and i dont think its covered by warranty. i didnt know they had a recal on the master cylinder though. you sure?
I am absolutely positive. Call Mitsubishi they will tell you.

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Old October 15th, 2010, 05:27 AM   #27 (permalink)
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you see where the brake fluid is? follow the black tube going to the right, to the master. check that line, then follow along and check the line coming out the master thats going to the transmission
I found this very helpful and I have been reading it for the past 1.5 hours.

http://tearstone.com/shop/2006-Eclip...ce-Manual.html

-T-

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Old October 15th, 2010, 05:30 AM   #28 (permalink)
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you see where the brake fluid is? follow the black tube going to the right, to the master. check that line, then follow along and check the line coming out the master thats going to the transmission
Hmmm... I will have to check that out. If for some reason there is a leak and my fluid drained would that cause the pedal to go all the way to the floorboard?

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Old October 15th, 2010, 06:16 AM   #29 (permalink)
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yep. a leak will do itas well. mitsu doesnt use the best of parts soo lines do tend to break or come loose
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Old October 15th, 2010, 06:23 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Yes the 2006 had a recall for the Master Cylinder, and the brakes. Check your fluid but if the fluid is low than the Brake light usually comes on on the dash. The same one that is on when you have the e-brake engaged. Clutch's are not usually covered under warranty by an manufacturer not just Mitsubishi its a wear an tear item.. However just because your clutch went dead like that doesn't mean your problem is the clutch itself. It really is hard to say for sure like exec said it could be a lotta things
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Old October 15th, 2010, 11:34 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Location: So Cal
Vehicle: 2006/Eclipse/GT
Posts: 20
Rep Power: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSidEclipse View Post
Yes the 2006 had a recall for the Master Cylinder, and the brakes. Check your fluid but if the fluid is low than the Brake light usually comes on on the dash. The same one that is on when you have the e-brake engaged. Clutch's are not usually covered under warranty by an manufacturer not just Mitsubishi its a wear an tear item.. However just because your clutch went dead like that doesn't mean your problem is the clutch itself. It really is hard to say for sure like exec said it could be a lotta things
Ok so it turns out there is a leak in the front of the transmission. Suspect push rod is broken inside the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder is bad. Bad news it's a lot of $$$$$$$. Right now I am looking at no less than $1385 not including the clutch, if the clutch is bad it will be $1900. However, I don't think it is because of the low mileage on my car. Labor for removing the transmission is ridiculous! The dealership is not wanting to cover one single problem, however I am contacting corporate headquarters Monday. Because, it involves the transmission removal and replacement. The 100k power-train warranty should apply. Either way I have it at a local auto shop thanks to Mitsubishi wanting to charge me almost double the price. Unreal!

-T-

Last edited by SanDiegoEclipse; October 15th, 2010 at 11:53 PM.
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car, clutch, clutch failure, clutch problem, gear, pedal

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