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Old October 25th, 2012, 10:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Fluctuating RPMs when I release gas pedal

My problem is, when I am holding gas pedal, and cruising along, the RPMs are fine, when I release the gas pedal, to prepare for a stop, the RPMs go shoot down to about 1K, then shoot back up, to where they were previously Sometimes this is accompanied with a slight jerking movement of the car, as if I tapped the brake (not being hit on accident). There seems to be so many things it could be from what I gathered from the internet. I have a scanner and pulled up no codes. I have already checked for vacuum leaks, seemed fine (Idle RPM starts at 1.5K at cold start and takes a while to get down to normal at 650 when car is fully at operating temp) I thought this may have something to do with it. It seems to take a long time to heat up, but im not sure if it is just the car and this is normal. Please help me to shed light on this problem. Do not want to take to mechanic who will sell me a lot of BS as to the nature of the problem. Thank you all.

Things done recently to the car:
Spark plug change to NGK Lasers (by me)
Thermostat changed (done in a shop by professional)
Rear brake pad change (by me)

It is a 2007 Eclipse GS
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Old October 25th, 2012, 10:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2 things come to mind (from my personal experience!):
  1. Did you disconnect the battery when you did this work, and did you reset the ECM/PCM after reconnecting the battery? There is an on/off, long idle, gentle test drive associated with this process. It takes about 40 minutes, all told.
  2. Did you mess with the throttle body at ALL? The electronics case (resin cover) is SACRED. You can pull the TB, clean it, paint it, whatever, but don't even breathe on the resin cover (actually the manual says to not turn any of the screws on it). I spent a month with a screwy idle, assuming I had, yet again, put a crimp in the TB gasket and was sucking air. The truth was, I severely injured my TB out of curiosity.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for Reply. To answer your questions:

1:I did disconnect the battery. I just got back from trying to trouble shoot. So I just redid this process. I disconnected, then reconnected. Turned car to "on" and let it sit for 2 minutes. Turned off and then fired it up and let it idle for about 10 minutes. I then took it for a drive and it did the same thing.

2: Yes I cleaned the throttle body as recommended by many. I also loosened a screw on there because I saw something about cleaning the linkage and I assumed it was in there.
Reads your post on forums...
It seems this is my problem. I had the problem before, but it happened randomly. Now i realize what I have done....

So I tried to trouble shoot it while I was away from the boards. It still has the problem. Here is specifically what happens: All is fine while accelerating, but as soon as I lift foot off gas, the RPM goes to 1000 no matter the speed im going, shoots up and down and then steadies out. I have an automatic btw. When the car is decelerating, it seems to jerk and then slow down really quick as if it the brakes are being slightly held. Is this similar to what you faced? I saw something where it said it could be a transmission problem as well. If it is the resin part, how much will it take to get my baby back to running condition if i took it to a mechanic? Thank you
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Old October 26th, 2012, 04:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine also PULLED the car when off the gas, like a dog at a leash. Without braking, it would "idle" up to at least 35 mph.

The dealer can reset your troubled TB. I don't know the details, what it will cost, or if it needs to be on the car when it's recalibrated. My troubled TB is still troubled, but it's sitting on a shelf in my garage.

You've got a GS, this may be the time for you to take advantage of your situation and hit up car-parts.com for a GT TB (65mm throat as opposed to our 60mm). The one on my car came out of a junkyard and it works GREAT.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 06:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you go the GT TB route, then also be sure to grab a TB spacer for some extra awesomeness. Though, be warned, you won't get the full potential out of the GT TB until you get the car tuned.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 07:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The TB comes off easy enough, the spacer can be added at any time. It's the Manifold spacer that you have to plan for. =-D

[Insert comment from more experienced owner that begins, "Getting the manifold off is easy enough..."]

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Old October 26th, 2012, 09:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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While you have the manifold off you may as well delete that resonator a wastegate blockoff plate is like $10.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 10:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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While you have the manifold off you may as well delete that resonator a wastegate blockoff plate is like $10.
Absolutely!
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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They have manifold spacers for the 4G69? I remember reading somewhere that they didn't offer them...
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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They have manifold spacers for the 4G69? I remember reading somewhere that they didn't offer them...
Thermo Block Intake Manifold Gasket - 4G69 Mivec
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Didnt they used to be $120 for both?
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Mine also PULLED the car when off the gas, like a dog at a leash. Without braking, it would "idle" up to at least 35 mph.

The dealer can reset your troubled TB. I don't know the details, what it will cost, or if it needs to be on the car when it's recalibrated. My troubled TB is still troubled, but it's sitting on a shelf in my garage.

You've got a GS, this may be the time for you to take advantage of your situation and hit up car-parts.com for a GT TB (65mm throat as opposed to our 60mm). The one on my car came out of a junkyard and it works GREAT.
Well mine is pulled like that, but not as fast, only 20. But I just got the car in September. Realized I still have a 3 month warranty for it. So I am just going to replace the whole throttle. I would change the throttle to the GT myself but I feel I would fuck it up. Just want a car that doesnt give me trouble for right now. Ill worry about mods when i get the extra cash. Thanks again
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Old October 26th, 2012, 03:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The gt throttlebody is actually cheaper. Lancer guys have a hard on for thr 4g69 tb. And its the exact same install except you have to cut a small tab off. I used a butter knife to do it so its not difficult.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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There is plenty on here about swapping the throttle body. Seriously man, you should try it yourself if they won't cover it on warranty.

if you can't swap the TB successfully, start paying someone else right now, to open the hood for you! It's 4 bolts, a dry gasket, coolant lines (which you should bypass) and an electrical connector.

Mods don't get much easier.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 10:13 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i love how this goes from "please help me, my car doesn't work properly", to "hey this is a sick mod yo, you should get this"

is the car manual or auto?
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Old October 27th, 2012, 10:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Swapping TB's is far from a "sick mod". Yo.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 10:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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obviously, what i'm getting at is that it doesn't solve the problem unless a faulty throttle body is the problem...
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Old October 27th, 2012, 12:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Apologies in my case, i assumed the problem was a faulty tb. So replacing it would be the next logical step for me.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 12:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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He said he turned a screw on the resin cover.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 12:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i'm assuming it's automatic because rpm dropping to 1000 in gear while moving is impossible with a manual, and my worry is that regardless of what he/she did to the throttle body, why would that cause the car to "idle" while rolling in gear, now i'm no expert with auto transmissions, but i would assume the transmission would normally stay in an optimal rpm range, without input from the accelerator pedal...just saying to me it seems like there's more to it...if he buggered the throttle body, it seems to me replacing it won't resolve the fact that the transmission doesn't seem to be working properly, i could be wrong...
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Old October 27th, 2012, 09:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The car is an automatic. Since I got the car, sometimes I would experience fluctuating RPMS when releasing the gas pedal. It only happened rarely. I would also experience a rough idle. After reading somethings online, i thought it could be a dirty throttle. Cleaned it and that helped it out But the idle RPM was really high and took a long time to go down, so I thought it was a problem with thermostat being fully open. Had that fixed by mechanic, but still problem exists. Recently the car has been experiencing the fluctuating rpms when releasing the gas pedal more often. I read online about what that could mean. No clear answer since it could be a multitude of problems. It seems more like a sticky linkage, so I thought I would start there. I assumed the motor for the throttle was the resin cover so i started to take that off. I only removed the top screw, but since I could get the bottom one off, I just put it back on. Now the car has the RPM problem anytime I accelerate and then release the gas pedal. I assume the problem before was just a bad sensor? The transmission seems fine. But something i noticed recently is that it shifts to next gear at a higher RPM than it used to. For example. It would shift into 4th at about 2000-2500, now it goes up to 3000. I chalk it up to the bad alignment from my fuck up. Basically after releasing gas pedal, the RPMs jump up and down. Hopefully this can help you understand a little more of my problem.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 09:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Didnt jhun have an issue similar to this? Loss of power and rpm drop?
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Old November 8th, 2012, 06:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Update
Replaced Throttle Body. Cost 550 bucks. Did not help at all but it was broken by my fuck up. Got mad, broke MAF, another 150, waiting for it to arrive. Read somethings online. Said may be a EGR Valve being dirty, and not closing all the way. Cleaned, was realllllyyy dirty. Hope this solves the problem. Will update when all is complete to help future forum users troubleshoot
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Old March 1st, 2013, 11:57 AM   #24 (permalink)
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did you ever fix your problem
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Old March 5th, 2013, 07:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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did you ever fix your problem
Actually No. I came back here to look for answers again. Since the last time I posted, I have still been having problems. My scanner reads no codes at all. To verify I took to a garage. They found nothing as well and took for ride and said all was fine, ALL IS NOT FINE. They said my front rotors were warped, so i got them changed thinking that they could be causing the hangup, no change. I then got a TPS code but it went away. Took to garage again and they said the computer stored the code as a bad TPS. Wanted 900 just for the throttle body alone, not the labor, said fuck that. Ordered my own for 140, practically brand new from ebay. In the meantime while waiting, I got the Computer reflashed. Changed out the throttle body. Runs alittle better but problem is still there. Release gas, tach drops like a brick than pops back up, sometimes with a little hesitation. What I have noticed though is that it usually does when warmed up. When cold still runs perfect. Thought could be O2 sensors. Unplugged all of them and drove. Problem still there. So I am completely stuck. No idea where to go from here. Tried everything that was suggested and nothing. Anyone have an idea?
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Old September 11th, 2013, 12:03 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Actually No. I came back here to look for answers again. Since the last time I posted, I have still been having problems. My scanner reads no codes at all. To verify I took to a garage. They found nothing as well and took for ride and said all was fine, ALL IS NOT FINE. They said my front rotors were warped, so i got them changed thinking that they could be causing the hangup, no change. I then got a TPS code but it went away. Took to garage again and they said the computer stored the code as a bad TPS. Wanted 900 just for the throttle body alone, not the labor, said fuck that. Ordered my own for 140, practically brand new from ebay. In the meantime while waiting, I got the Computer reflashed. Changed out the throttle body. Runs alittle better but problem is still there. Release gas, tach drops like a brick than pops back up, sometimes with a little hesitation. What I have noticed though is that it usually does when warmed up. When cold still runs perfect. Thought could be O2 sensors. Unplugged all of them and drove. Problem still there. So I am completely stuck. No idea where to go from here. Tried everything that was suggested and nothing. Anyone have an idea?
What about the idle control?
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Old October 28th, 2013, 12:27 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Any updates on this problem
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Old January 9th, 2014, 03:12 PM   #28 (permalink)
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any updates
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Old January 9th, 2014, 04:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Where the hell is that idle control valve?
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Old January 9th, 2014, 10:30 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Where the hell is that idle control valve?
I'm asking the same question
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Old January 9th, 2014, 11:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Control valve is inside of the throttle body
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Old January 11th, 2014, 03:15 AM   #32 (permalink)
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?
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Old February 22nd, 2014, 07:14 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Connector

Anyone have a problem with wires pulling out of connector on throttle body? GT manual. The main one has like 5 wires and lil rubber bushings im guessin to keep dry? Doing plugs and cleaning intake noticed 3 were out when putting back together. The way they came out looked like the lil rubber bushings were to push the wires into contact cause bare wire was bent over the bushing. Is that right or surely there crimped onto somthin extremely small?
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Old April 9th, 2014, 06:56 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I'm having a problem with my RPMs dropping below 500 at idle when AC or heater is on. What could be the issue there?
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Old April 9th, 2014, 08:07 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I'm having a problem with my RPMs dropping below 500 at idle when AC or heater is on. What could be the issue there?
Having ac on is an extra load on your electrical system. Most everybody's rpm gauge fluctuates. To get a smoother idle,guys have added extra grounding wires and say it works very well.
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Old April 9th, 2014, 08:57 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Having ac on is an extra load on your electrical system. Most everybody's rpm gauge fluctuates. To get a smoother idle,guys have added extra grounding wires and say it works very well.
Like more grounding wires from the compressor or fan motor?
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Old April 9th, 2014, 09:19 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Just get a nrg circle earth grounding kit


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Old April 9th, 2014, 11:53 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Just get a nrg circle earth grounding kit


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Do you have this on yours? I'd like to see pics and/or more info on what's had additional grounds.

$50 is a lot for some 12gauge wire. I could build mine cheeper. And use better wire


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Old April 9th, 2014, 03:14 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Do you have this on yours? I'd like to see pics and/or more info on what's had additional grounds.

$50 is a lot for some 12gauge wire. I could build mine cheeper. And use better wire


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That's what I'm saying. I could build it to what I need and look like I want it to look for wayyyy cheaper. But I really don't know where exactly to take the extra grounds. Kinda new to the tuner car scene.


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Old April 9th, 2014, 08:15 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rob Z View Post
Do you have this on yours? I'd like to see pics and/or more info on what's had additional grounds.

$50 is a lot for some 12gauge wire. I could build mine cheeper. And use better wire


sent from Autoguide Free because tapatalk was dropped.
I fixed my problem and have brighter HID, doesn't take as long to start the car, and my interior lights are brighter. All i did was add 1 extra ground from the battery to the strut bolt. And it didnt cost me a penny.
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