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Old June 27th, 2007, 07:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Progress 24mm Sway Bar - Install

*Original Post Mia4geclipse*





Remove those bolts first (one on each side)


Then remove the two brackets holding the bar to the car.



To get the stock bar out and the new one in you will need to take off the left rear wheel.



Wiggle the stock bar out..

Then get the new bar ready. put the grease on the "D" shaped things lol and wiggle the new bar into place.



start to screw the new brackets into place then put the left rear tire back on.

after that finish securing the bar into place and set it to the position you want.

once all that is done you are finished and its time to take her for a ride around the block
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Old July 26th, 2007, 03:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what is the torque recommendation for the end link bolts?
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Old October 13th, 2008, 09:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There is no need to remove the tire. It just takes some wiggling to get the old bar out and the new bar in.
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Old October 17th, 2008, 07:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need4Speed View Post
what is the torque recommendation for the end link bolts?
no one knows?
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Old July 14th, 2012, 01:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Which setting is the hardest?


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Old July 14th, 2012, 02:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i'm tempted to say the furthest hole from the bar, but i'll do a quick search and double-check !!

actually, now i think that's just the opposite

if you think about torsion and if you wanted to twist the bar by hand, the further away you are from the bar, the easier it will be (more leverage). so to keep it tight, you'd want the links to be in the closest hole

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Old July 14th, 2012, 02:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I tried before I posted, thought for sure it's been covered but couldn't find anything on the forum. Found a picture I took of the directions though, the hole toward the end of the bar is the softest setting. I presume that means the furthest is going to be the hardest setting. Which is what I'm on.


I've been testing out different setups now that the coilovers are installed.


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Old July 14th, 2012, 02:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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wtf is that supposed to mean (from the instructions page):
" The hole toward the end of the bar is the softest setting."

that's confusing...
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Old July 14th, 2012, 02:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah no shit lol


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Old August 2nd, 2012, 07:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The hole that is nearest the end of the bar will give the most travel, so if you use the holes futher away from the end, you will get a stiffer feel. That help?
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Old October 4th, 2012, 01:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The more I drive my car, the more I want the anti-sway bar. I'm doing this before I replace the stock intake.
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Old February 24th, 2013, 11:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Installed.

I didn't attempt this with the wheels on the ground. I chocked the front wheel, jacked the car, set it down on jack stands, and removed the rear wheels. 5 minutes prep and now I have plenty of room to work.

I can't emphasize this enough: You are going to be under the car yanking and banging on rusty nuts and bolts. If you are going to jack the car for this, put it on jack stands!!! Please do not trust the stability of your car and your own well being to a $5 hydraulic valve in a floor jack or to the "any port in a storm" scissors jack in your trunk. Also, I said I chocked the front, but jack stands go a LONG way toward immobilizing the car in the same way, that floor jacks and scissor jacks do NOT.

This is a pretty easy install. The challenging parts aren't all that challenging.
  • No impact tools here, so breaking the bolts free required a rubber mallet on the ratchet I was using. Wouldn't have had to go there but I couldn't find a 14mm 1/2" drive socket in my toolbox (so I couldn't use my breaker bar either). Hmm...imagine that. Done without a breaker bar! That's how easy it is.
  • I wasn't able to use my energy suspension bushings as I had planned, apparently I bought the wrong ones (too big) because the holes in the brackets don't line up. The diameter for the bar was perfect, but the bracket seemed too big.
  • Removing the old bar and inserting the new one was easiest from the driver's side of the car. I tried it from the passenger side first, and couldn't get the bar through because it was hitting the exhaust pipe.

Here are some unboxing pictures. Yes, this looks nothing like the pictures you see when ordering or researching this bar. Progress puts out a generic image (also used by ACI on their web site). It's a STRAIGHT bar.






Before/Stock (64k miles of road gunk here - doesn't look all that bad!)




Some old bar/new bar comparison pics. I saw on a website somewhere (Maybe Energy Suspension?) that sold a ring you put on your sway bar to make sure it remained side-to-side in the right position. Nice to see the Progress bar has these integrated into theirs. When you hold the old bar and new bar side-by-side you can see that the bushings go on the INSIDE of these rings. Even the stock bar appears to be designed (with the bends) so it shouldn't require those rings.




I found it interesting that the stock hole is halfway between the first and second holes of the Progress bar. Perhaps the longest setting on the Progress bar is close to stock?




I didn't use the Energy Suspension bushings. I don't know if I bought the wrong thing or if I just needed to JAM on these and make them fit? Wasn't in that kind of a mood this morning, so I went back to the bushings that shipped in the Progress kit.




Installed




A little common sense here, the bar isn't going to flex nearly as much on the short hole as it will on the long hole. It's a matter of leverage. So the hole nearest the end of the bar will be the softest setting. It will provide the most flex, because the bar is longer there. I have mine on the stiffest setting, where the bar the shortest. I'll back off if I feel the need to soften it, but for now it feels fine.

I probably should have taken the car to a parking lot / track and really pushed it on the steering so I'd have something to compare it to now, but I didn't. Oh well, needs much more driving now. And that's why we do what we do, so we can DRIVE the thing.

Still to come: New Energy Suspension end links (look sweet, will likely need to be modified). And I'm going to look closer at getting Energy Suspension bushings for this guy that will work. If anyone has an ES SKU that you put on your car, I"m all ears.
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Old February 24th, 2013, 11:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Oops, couple more things:

Per the Tearstone manual, I torqued the bushing bolts to 34ft-lbs and the end link nuts to 30 ft-lbs.

Also, the passenger side end link starting spinning when I loosened the nut a little, and I had to put a pipe wrench on it. No biggie, there is a safe place for the wrench to grab, but you have to be careful to not wrench on the threads or the dust boot.
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Old June 22nd, 2015, 02:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Anyone have measurements of the distance between the inner part of the holes on the inside bracket?

Got my eyes on Perrin EXTREME HEAVY DUTY BRACKETS. These seem like a eay better option.
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Old June 22nd, 2015, 09:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I went with eibach 25mm,perrin xtreme duty bracket for wrx/sti, evo X Whiteline rear links.

Will continue write up /install details once i receive my stuff.
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Old June 22nd, 2015, 09:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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So my dreams got shit on... Eibach bailed as no one buys parts from them so no 25mm,meaning no 25mm bracket feom Perrin.... Ffs... When the new Eclipse comes out they better start mąking after market parts. 90% of. Ppl are window shoppers and that doesn't help businesses. I even talked to the guy feom RRE...
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 09:19 AM   #17 (permalink)
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YES! I got the last sway bar available in all of the goddamn world. Nothing on eBay, or Amazon or any real legit website when i was searching. I called everyone i found they all said not in stock. I eventually found the last one on TireRack... I wasn't even aware they dealt in parts that weren't tires /rims.

Ordered up the perrin xtreme hulk sized bushing bracket, and we are good to go! Evo X Endlinks are enroute as well

Tanabe upper and lower braces are coming from Japan. Can't wait to install!
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Old November 11th, 2016, 08:57 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Do you need new endlinks or can you reuse the old one?
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