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Old June 27th, 2007, 08:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Eibach Pro Kit Spring - Install

*Original Post by s0madlan*

First I started with the rear.. Jack up your car and put the rear on stands, both sides.. Take both rear tires off.. Then go into the trunk...

Take those off cuz thats where the nuts are located which holds the springs..





Same with the other side, but the speaker is in the way, so you need to take them off..









Once, you got those out and can see the nuts in there JUST LOSEN THEM AT FIRST!!

Next you go behind the brakes and take that off..




Once you took it off, go back in the trunk and undo those 3 nuts. The springs may fall off on the ground... Mine didn't so you just push the bottom part of the springs hard and they should fall out easily.. Now use your spring compressor (do this for all 4)..





Next you unscrew the top part and you'll need these to help take it out.. When you unscrew them the top and bottom will move so make sure you pay attention to how they line up cuz you will reinstall them after replacing the springs.. If they are lined up incorrectly you'll have to do them again for it to fit properly..

size T30 for the back struts, T40 for the front



Here is your bumpstop.. You should cut it at least half an inch.. Some people do more, some do less.. So you figure that out..





Now it's time to do the front.. So jack the front end just like how you did the back and take off wheels.. Then pop the hood.. Look for these on both sides and loosen them just like how you did on the rear..



Next look at the front brakes..


First remove nut (1)

Remove 2 screws holding break lines on both sides (2)

Support the rotor with a jack (it relieves the stress on it after last bolts are removed)

Remove the 2 two largest screws connecting springs to breaks (3)



Then do the spring compressor again like above.. And reinstall...

After about a week or 2, make sure you get your car aligned...

EDIT:


Here are some more pictures, detailed of the springs that MikeW had with road race engineering.. He also said that removing the nut on top of the springs comes off easily with an impact wrench.. I tried it and it works a LOT better than using that tool I listed above.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g/tech/springinstall/
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Old April 11th, 2008, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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FYI for anyone doing this install. Double check the strut tube. Last night we did a friends eclipse gt. The strut needed a 6mm allen key not a t40.
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Old April 11th, 2008, 01:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old May 2nd, 2008, 12:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo03.5msp View Post
FYI for anyone doing this install. Double check the strut tube. Last night we did a friends eclipse gt. The strut needed a 6mm allen key not a t40.
can you check this simply by opening the hood? or do you got to remove it then check? and did you use a T30 for the back?
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Old May 2nd, 2008, 05:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It's not a hex...it's definitely a torx star...

You don't need it for the springs, though. And you don't need a spring compressor. Do get an impact wrench, though.

Put the entire assembly on soft ground or grass, facing away from you. Then take an impact wrench to the nut AROUND the torx keyhole. I believe it's a 17mm deep socket...might be wrong... Anyway, the assembly will pop apart, and the spring will bounce out a few feet. You can then use the impact wrench to put it all together. Just sandwich your new spring inside the assembly, line the elements properly, and it will come together without a hitch.

I also had issues with the BIG nut/bolt on the front struts... I believe it was 22...or maybe even 24 mm... the one that needs roughly 225Nm torque. I had to use two wrenches, one to turn and another to keep the bolt from spinning. If anyone knows an easier way about this, do tell.

Last edited by zahbaz; May 2nd, 2008 at 05:21 PM.
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Old May 3rd, 2008, 01:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i did the backs so far and i did use a spring compressor....did not need a torx bit at all...i stuck an allen key in the hole to hold it and used a 17mm open ended wrench to take the top bolt off. it was pretty easy and ill be doing the fronts in the morning
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Old May 3rd, 2008, 10:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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just completed the fronts. the overall job was surprisingly easy and all you need is a rachet set (make sure u got a 24mm), a compressor and breaker bar. i jus used the handle from the jack and it worked great. overall install took about 6 hours and i would recommend it to anyone. save a lot of money and use it elsewhere. ill be posting pics within a few days when i get a chance to wash it....and this is exactly how it should have came from the factory
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Old May 10th, 2008, 11:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This is one of the first suspension mods I am looking to do. Has everyone been happy with the Eibach pro and the progress.

I look forward to the pics.

thanks for your thoughts.
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Old May 11th, 2008, 02:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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pics r on my cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2340230
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Old May 11th, 2008, 11:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks great, did you get the same drop as advertised for the springs?
How dark is the tint?

Very nice ride
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Old May 12th, 2008, 08:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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tahnx...yea i got about a 1.5 inch drop...the tints are 20%
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Old July 26th, 2008, 07:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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2008 Eclipse Progress Springs

Just did mine. Backs were very easy. Allen key fit perfect. (Front and back)

Big bolts on the fronts were tough, but they came off. Needed just short of tool breaking strength to get them off. (Watch your fenders.....and make sure you have a really good socket.....not the time to be slipping off.

Watch when you finally get everything loose while doing the fronts. Very easy to nick or cut the brake lines. I nicked the smaller of the two lines, (anti-lock wires??) but I don't think it went all the way through to the inside. I'll put some really good tape on it for now and keep an eye on things.


Total time was about 5 hours sans lunch. Back still looks a bit high, but then it hasn't settled yet either. Going for a ride tonight....if anything is a miss....I'll report back here tonight.
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Old July 26th, 2008, 09:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Everything seems fine, except for a double thump coming from the front right side on certain bumps. Tomorrow I'll take the wheel off again and take a look.

Any idea on what it could be......assuming I did everything right. (Although....I'm not above making a mistake)
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Old October 20th, 2008, 03:16 AM   #14 (permalink)
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do you need to cut the bump stop? What does this do exactly when you cut it more vs less?
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Old February 12th, 2009, 10:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshmbu View Post
do you need to cut the bump stop? What does this do exactly when you cut it more vs less?
*Brings thread back to life*

Bump! I would like to know the answer to this as well. Trying to learn here. Thanks in advance.
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Old September 10th, 2012, 03:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Dumb question , but you say to cut down the bump steer. What is the purpose of this?
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Old September 10th, 2012, 04:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Not bump steer. Bump stops. You have to cut them to allow more suspension travel since you are lower. Bump steer is something completely different that involves more explanation than I care to go into in this thread.
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Old September 10th, 2012, 07:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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How do you determine how much to cut off of the bump stop?
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Old September 11th, 2012, 04:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xero View Post
Not bump steer. Bump stops. You have to cut them to allow more suspension travel since you are lower. Bump steer is something completely different that involves more explanation than I care to go into in this thread.
Yeah that was a typo . I thought I edited the post but didnt.
I've done some reading and got a little better understanding of what a bump stop is. I'm likely going to cut em down to 1 inch. I think that should work well.

Still gotta do the front springs too. Backs are on. I just will go back and cut the bump stop when I can.
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Old October 10th, 2012, 02:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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URGENT help needed guys . Back went smoothly . Front tho, on your picture there where it says nut one. On both sides it just spins , what can I do to stop it I can't seem to see anything on the other side .
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Old October 11th, 2012, 12:21 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Anybody ?
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I didnt want to spend $300 on a CAI so i rigged up my own... 50 in tubing, 50 on a filter, 50 on seals,20 on heat tape, hours and hours of fucking with it, to top it off 130 for a new MAF . Thank god i didnt buy the right thing.
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Old October 25th, 2012, 04:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I'm doing mine tonight or tomorrow, so I'll try to let you know.
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Old October 25th, 2012, 04:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I got a timing belt band loop with in itself, and then with an impact gun, I took out the bolt, easy tweasy...

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Old October 25th, 2012, 04:44 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hold it by the middle part where the shock actually travels, the whiney part

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Old October 25th, 2012, 04:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's what's spinning

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Old January 13th, 2013, 10:25 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what part the #1 bolt is connected to I need to order a new one. Stripped the Allen key on it
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Old March 17th, 2013, 11:08 AM   #27 (permalink)
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thread BUMP.

I'd like to know a few things RE: the bump stop.

I want to cut mine, I want to cut them once, and get it right the first time.
  1. How much have others cut theirs? Only interested in people who have dropped on Eibach Pro's, since, I'm assuming that a greater drop = more cut off the bump stop.
  2. From which end do you cut? Do you take 1/2" (as an example) off the narrow end, re-installing the fat end, or do you take 1/2" off the fat end, re-installing the piece with the narrow end?
  3. I'm a bit corn-fused on why you would only cut it a 1/2" when the expected drop is 1.5". Wouldn't you be limiting the shock/strut travel by an inch less than it has at stock height?
  4. Is there a replacement bump stop from Energy Suspension that would work without cutting? (not a big deal here, but ES makes bump stops, just wondering).
Thank you!
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Old March 17th, 2013, 12:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I think I may have answered my own questions a bit.

It seems that you cut around a 1/2" because there's not much of it to cut to begin with.
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Old March 17th, 2013, 05:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
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On #4 above, when I remove my bump stop to cut them, I'll measure them. I may be interested in Energy Suspension replacements that aren't cut.

If someone would have the height, width and bore of the OEM ones I might go shopping right now.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 04:23 AM   #30 (permalink)
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http://performance-suspension.eibach.../ERS_18_US.pdf

Page 10. Looks like lots of good replacement bump stop options there. Bah...cutting the existing ones is likely just as good. No one is going to look at them anyway.
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 01:14 AM   #31 (permalink)
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After much contemplation about the strut bolt head size, I bought a 23mm socket to go to work. I felt that my 15/16" socket was a touch loose on that bolt. The next metric size down from 15/16" (my only point of reference) is 23mm. 23mm is a hair too small. So instead of going with a 24mm which is bigger than the 15/16", I used the 15/16" anyway.

15/16" wound up being the perfect size for the strut tower bolts.

Fronts are done, and I have no more huge-mongous bolts to deal with. Rears aren't quite so uppity. I'm returning a 23mm socket to Adv Auto tomorrow. Some kind of "bonking stick" helps, I had a humongo rubber mallet. Used it to bang on the strut tower bolts to remove them, after removing the nut.

This is such a rewarding piece of work, everyone should do it for themselves.

Wish there was a non-OEM replacement option for those sway bar end links.
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Old March 29th, 2013, 09:50 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Speaking of "rewarding piece of work", I am LOVING the Eibach Springs. Those combined with the Progress rear sway bar and Energy Suspension sway bar bushings, the car feels rock solid compared to stock.

The rear wheels actually seem to follow the front around a corner. And I feel like challenging interstate ramps now. The car is simply more confident and stable.

I'm excited to put on my lower control arm bushings, now.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #33 (permalink)
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My reflections on the job.

Great Reference Material
I came to 3-4 places in the job where I thought, "Maybe I shouldn't be doing this, I'm STUCK!" But I figured it out, and got through it. This is as much as I've done to any car I've ever owned, and I didn't have to run back to the auto parts store even once in the middle of the job. Go as slow as you feel you need to & learn as much as you can about your car while doing this.
As much work as this was, it was also very rewarding!

Tools I used:
  • floor jack
  • 2 jack stands
  • 1 pair of spring compressors
  • 11/16" box wrench
  • T30 Torx tool
  • 15/16" socket (two is better)
  • breaker bar (two is better)
  • BARM - big ass rubber mallet - $5 at Adv Auto bargain bin
  • Pipe Wrench Pliers (a second breaker bar and 15/16" socket would have been better).
  • PB Blaster penetrant
  • 19mm deep socket (this was for the spring compressor, your mileage may vary)
  • 17mm deep socket (for the top nut on the struts)
  • Assorted metric sockets, 12mm, 16mm, 17mm
  • Lock-Tite Red
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (for the humongo strut bolts @ 225 ft-lbs), which I do not have and did not use.
  • bench vise

I did the fronts (struts) first, then the backs (shocks).

Tips:
  • I spent a couple of hours soaking the strut bolts and nuts (the big ones with a 15/16" head) with PB Blaster. I haven't had an issue with it, but but note that you are spraying penetrating solvent where it can drip on your CV boots, brake lines, and ABS sensor lines. Advise caution, and maybe wrapping those pieces with a cloth? I didn't but thinking maybe i should have. Like I said, no issues yet.

  • If/when I do it again, I lower the rear while the fronts are soaking in PB Blaster, hitting them with it every 30 minutes or so.

  • Front struts:
    1. Loosen the 3 top nuts but do not remove them.
    2. Without impact tools it is nearly impossible to turn the top nut on the struts while the strut is off the car. The problem is breaking that nut free. I had the strut off the car before discovering this, and I put it back in the car to break the top nut free. The other side, I did it in the correct order. I turned it a half turn while it was still on the car to break it free. Much easier after that. Do NOT remove this bolt or turn it any more until you have the strut off and the spring compressed.
    3. Remove the brake line bracket and ABS sensor bracket from the strut. tie them as far away from the strut as the slack will allow. They won't go far. (Hey genius, you are used to tying calipers to the springs when doing brakes. Avoid that urge here because the spring is coming out of the car very soon.)
    4. Remove the sway bar end link from the strut. I found these would loosen a little bit and then spin. You can use a hex wrench and box end wrench (i didn't) or you can turn the bolt and feel with your other hand where it is spinning and (what I did) put a pipe wrench on it where it is spinning, and finish removing the nut. Pull the end link off the strut and push it away, to the rear of the car, from where you are working. Leave it connected to the sway bar.
    5. Before removing the strut bolts, support the wheel hub. Mine didn't drop much with the strut disconnected, but your experience could be different. Since the car was already on jack stands, I used the floor jack and put it under the lower control arm.
    6. When loosing the strut bolts, I found that the nuts would move ever so slightly, then the bolt would spin, causing an awful metal-on-metal squeaky racket. This requires a LOT of pull on the breaker bar. I put the pipe wrench on the bolt to secure it while breaking the nut free. Breaker bar #2 and another 15/16" deep socket would have been fantastic here, but I didn't have two of those, so I opted for the pipe wrench pliers. It didn't take long until the nut spun freely (by hand). Do not be ashamed to apply more PB Blaster and wait another 10 minutes.
    7. Now that the strut is connected to the car ONLY by the 3 loose nuts on top, you can remove these and then remove the strut. HOLD ON to the strut with one hand while removing the nuts with your other, or have a buddy. The strut is bulky but if you got the strut bolts off, then you should be able to easily support the strut and spring with one hand while you remove the 3 top nuts.
    8. Once the 3 top nuts are removed, you can remove the strut assembly. BE CAREFUL. There is a brake line, an ABS sensor line, and a CV joint boot sitting there just waiting for you to drop a strut on any one of them. Carefully remove the strut with these three systems in mind, and don't run the strut into them.

  • Once each shock/strut is off the car, you get to disassemble it. Take the OEM spring off, and put it back together with the new spring on it (yea!). I used my bench vise to hold on to the bottom of the strut and did all my work that way, as in the the Grand Prix video referenced above.

  • Before you disassemble the strut or shock, use a marker or paint to to mark a line up and down the top of the assembly. Hit every piece at the top. The struts have to be re-assembled in order and with the correct orientation.

  • On all 4 corners, I used a pair of vise-grips on the shaft of the strut. I wrapped the shaft in 2-3 layers of thick cloth towel first. You want to grip that shaft firmly, but you do not want to scratch it. In the Grand Am video referenced above, he's replacing the STRUT and he doesn't care about scratching that shaft, you do!

  • My toolset not only omits impact tools, but a 3/8" drive inch breaker bar, and some key 1/2" drive sockets. To get the lower bolts on the shocks I had a 17mm socket on the nut and holding the ratchet in place, I banged on the handle end to loosen the nut.

  • Once the lower nut is off the shock, the BARM can come in handy to knock it loose from the pin it is sitting on.

  • Without impact tools it is nearly impossible to turn the top nut on the shocks. The shock top nut can be loosened by inserting a Torx 30 tool into the top and using a 11/16" box end wrench on the nut.

  • Use an air hose (or do what I did, close your eyes and blow) and a damp towel to clean and inspect each piece that comes off. Place each piece on a table in the order and orientation that you removed it.

  • If your struts or shocks are making noises, it might be a good idea to simply replace everything up top.

  • When I put the struts back in the car I put lock-tite red on the threads of the strut bolts. I did not torque the strut bolts although I feel like I should have. I did, after applying lock-tite, simply put them back to "insanely tight".

  • I didn't use the spring compressors for the shocks, but they did produce a pronounced "pop" when the top nut finally came off that scattered parts everywhere. Not recommended.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 03:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Total time it took to complete? Would you say 3-4 hours?
I may have missed the time requirement.
Great insight btw.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 03:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hard to say, I was multitasking AND learning the job at the same time. Fronts took me 6 hours but that was while taking care of 3 kids on a Friday evening. I think 3-4 hours for the first timer is fairly accurate.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 08:06 PM   #36 (permalink)
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BTW, that Eric the Car Guy video is priceless. You can look at pictures and read guides, tips, and tricks all day long...watching someone actually do the job was about 75% of my inspiration to tackle this one myself.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unde7277 View Post
Does anyone know what part the #1 bolt is connected to I need to order a new one. Stripped the Allen key on it
Has anyone found this out? I have the same problem also when trying to pull off my back strut it wouldn't come off even woth a crow bar can anyone help!

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Old March 30th, 2013, 08:48 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSman View Post
Has anyone found this out? I have the same problem also when trying to pull off my back strut it wouldn't come off even woth a crow bar can anyone help!

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That is the sway bar end link. But while the front sway bar end links connect the sway bar and the strut, the rear end links don't touch the strut (the rears are called shocks), they connect the sway bar and the lower arm.

See here:



If you are trying to remove the rear shock absorber by disconnecting the sway bar end link, you are doing something wrong. There are four fasteners that connect that shock to the car: The three nuts on top, and the one bolt going through the bottom.

As for the end links spinning, I addressed this in my book, above. you do not have to replace them (although I'm eager to replace mine, they look like twigs ready to snap!). If the allen key part is stripped, then stick a socket on that nut and spin it so you can feel what is spinning under that rubber boot. Then get an adjustable pipe wrench or vise grips on it, I think it's a 30 ft-lb connector, you won't have to crank on it too hard, but wrenching on the spinning part will allow you to remove AND re-install the stock end link.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean, but I hope that helps!
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Old March 30th, 2013, 08:50 PM   #39 (permalink)
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BTW, I've had one end of each of my four (2 front, 2 rear) sway bar end links off. The rears for the new sway bar, and the fronts so I could remove the struts. 3 of the 4 have spun on me. I'm getting good and putting the adjustable wrench on them. It works.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 09:04 PM   #40 (permalink)
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The list above for tools is everything that is needed?
I am really considering lowering springs, as the ride height is pretty high. If I do them myself, and the struts leak within the next few months, I can just take them off and put the OEM ones back on for warranty purposes.
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