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Tuning and Electronics This forum is for tuning devices for the 4g eclipse from piggyback systems to full Stand Alones, Fuel Controllers, EGT readings, Data logging, PCM tuning, Air/Fuel readings and data. Discussions of Installations, Wiring & Tuning.


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Old August 23rd, 2011, 10:30 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Motor: 4G69
Injector's: Stock
Location: Tenn, KY Border
Temperature: Spring/Summer condotions a constant 80 to 100 degrees
Supporting Mods: RRE Header, Third Cat removal, Magnaflow Catback, Fujita Intake, RRE UDP, GT Throttle Body
Fuel: 93 Octane

A little more advance and little richer. If you don't have the GT TB this is going to be way to rich for you.

Everything under MIVEC is as stock, 3400 is when timing and fuel change
I'm running this map in cali weather (70~90 degrees outside, 23% humidity)

Workin pretty well so far on the top end on the butt dyno. AFR charts next week.
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Old August 25th, 2011, 07:32 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I'm running this map in cali weather (70~90 degrees outside, 23% humidity)

Workin pretty well so far on the top end on the butt dyno. AFR charts next week.
Good to hear
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Old August 31st, 2011, 04:24 AM   #43 (permalink)
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With my current mods, for pre-MIVEC rpms, at WOT, its running quite lean between 14.7 to 14.3. During Mivec it runs from 14.3 and slowly richens till redline, finishing at around 12.3-ish.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 04:33 AM   #44 (permalink)
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With my current mods, for pre-MIVEC rpms, at WOT, its running quite lean between 14.7 to 14.3. During Mivec it runs from 14.3 and slowly richens till redline, finishing at around 12.3-ish.
You have a cam also right?

After MIVEC you should add some fuel in the beginning try to get that 14.3 down around 12.5 to 13.1
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Old August 31st, 2011, 05:25 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Did you only mess with fuel trims on your map? I'm still mastering reading and logging and am not sure how to mess with anything other than MAF voltage settings.

EDIT: Also, while looking at some older dyno charts I had laying around, I seem to be generating the best torque at around a 14 flat AFR. There were coolant and valve lash adjustment issues at the time though.
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Old September 4th, 2011, 08:19 PM   #46 (permalink)
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this may be a dumb question but i use the pass through info with my base map or seperate?
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Old September 8th, 2011, 08:14 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tsensational View Post
Did you only mess with fuel trims on your map? I'm still mastering reading and logging and am not sure how to mess with anything other than MAF voltage settings.

EDIT: Also, while looking at some older dyno charts I had laying around, I seem to be generating the best torque at around a 14 flat AFR. There were coolant and valve lash adjustment issues at the time though.
I messed with the fuel trims, and the MAF Voltage, I advanced the timing a little from 3400 rpms and after 3.11 volts.

I think think this kinda shows what exactly changes with the cam. Mine was 13.0 3400 until 4000 then it jumped to 14 until 4600 and then down to 12.5

After some tweaking of the fuel I have it all 12.5-13.0 right now that is where my butt tells me I seem to be making the most power. If I hit 14 it feels like I am losing power.

Yours might be a little different with the cam though not sure since I don't have one
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Old September 8th, 2011, 08:15 AM   #48 (permalink)
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this may be a dumb question but i use the pass through info with my base map or seperate?
A base map to get the car running should only be the pass through
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Old December 8th, 2011, 09:58 AM   #49 (permalink)
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bump

anyone kno y i cant open these map files from the first page . . . i save them but i can not open them in the FIC software or anything.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 11:47 PM   #50 (permalink)
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??? ^^^ your Mivec starts at 3400???
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Yeah....mine hits at 4000.
on the 69 its 3400
on the 75 its 4000 or 4100 somewhere around there
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Old December 10th, 2011, 12:03 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Hmmm...the service manual only says 4,000...no mention of it being different on the two models...
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Old December 23rd, 2011, 12:30 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Ahhh shitttt. I might just buy a brand new UDP and GT TB just so I can use that map.
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Old December 23rd, 2011, 02:38 PM   #53 (permalink)
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^ the map will still need some tweaks. it will not b perfect for every car
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:53 PM   #54 (permalink)
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^ the map will still need some tweaks. it will not b perfect for every car
Feck. I'm just gonna pay 160 for someone to do it.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 09:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I just got tuned, if anyone wants to look at the map, here. I have headers, AT muffler, and cai... GS automatic.
Attached Files
File Type: zip 4G69 FINAL.zip (16.5 KB, 12 views)
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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:03 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I just got tuned, if anyone wants to look at the map, here. I have headers, AT muffler, and cai... GS automatic.
what did the car put down for numbers
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Old January 11th, 2012, 10:13 AM   #57 (permalink)
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this map looks strange to me for a few reasons... first of all it is adding fuel near redline... the car runs rich already? secondly there is stuff entered into the o2 sensor map.... you dont have those hooked up do you? was this a dyno tune with proven results?? id just be surprised if you actually gained horsepower from this....
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Old January 11th, 2012, 10:42 AM   #58 (permalink)
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^ it does look strange but have u looked at the maps that darkside posted in this thread. he is also adding fuel across the entire map. i mainly had to pull fuel on mine
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Old January 11th, 2012, 10:50 AM   #59 (permalink)
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and yes there is no need to skew the O2 sensor output values. i would advise not hooking them up at all just incase
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Old January 11th, 2012, 11:54 AM   #60 (permalink)
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ive never tuned my car NA with a wideband so i dont really know whats right or wrong... but i mean everyone is always saying the car runs pig rich at WOT so i cant see adding fuel being a good thing lol. also pearl, you should consider doing the advance trick to gain some ponies... if you change the MAF values you have tho throw that tune out the window though...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 08:49 PM   #61 (permalink)
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well here is my NA tune fuel / slight timing advance. it has been perfect for me. 178hp 180tq
4G69 Stage 2.zip

another map i use is this one here. both are at sea level in boston climate so it is constantly changing temperature and humidity all year round
4G69 Stage 1.zip
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Old January 16th, 2012, 06:04 PM   #62 (permalink)
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my most recent datalog from about a week ago. much colder than normal it was 16 degrees out. running on the file above 4G69 Stage 2 (and yes i kno my tps was not calibrated properly but i was heavy on the throttle as u can probably tell and i just got to 5700 rpm's)

Stage2 Datalog3.zip
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 10:23 PM   #63 (permalink)
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He says he knows what he is doing and the eclipse has a built in dumbed down wideband.
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 10:28 PM   #64 (permalink)
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And this was a driving around kinda tune. I did a few pulls, and it hiccups at redline a little a few times.
Now im getting a Bank 2, O2 #1 high voltage... I put two spacers on it... Lets see what it does, its like mis firing without the p0300 code. Like it bumbles around 500 rpm. And reverse is like stage 16 cam -__-
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Old February 4th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #65 (permalink)
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^ he should not have touched ur O2 map at all
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:57 PM   #66 (permalink)
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^ he should not have touched ur O2 map at all
Yeah I figured. They aren't even hooked up. Oh well...
I'm going turbo now, and I hope this jack ass can tune for it. That or its 600 bones for kings performance tune.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 12:58 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Correct me if I am wrong, guys, but look at the O2 map and then the Fuel map. What he did makes sense. By setting the O2 at .4, this tells the ECU to lean out in closed loop. So, once he hits MIVEC range, it will go even leaner. By adding fuel in the upper ranges, he is balancing out the extra lean condition. I may be wrong, but it makes sense to me.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:22 PM   #68 (permalink)
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^ that is true because during closed loop the ecu mainly relies info coming from the o2's to adjust fuel delivery and timing. but for the daily driver there most likely is no reason to tune closed loop because that is where the car already maintains optimum ratio of power and fuel consumption.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:28 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Maybe a lean-cruise setup? I might try this tune out and do some datalogging to see what results it gives.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:30 PM   #70 (permalink)
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like i said, it will give u better response but im strictly pointing out for the daily driver that there is no reason to tune closed loop. especially since all it takes to enter open loop is i think 60% throttle at any rpm
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:31 PM   #71 (permalink)
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BTW...Was your MAF hooked up for your tunes?
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:32 PM   #72 (permalink)
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of course. load needs to b calculated in for maximum control
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:34 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I thought the load was calculated by the MAP sensor.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:36 PM   #74 (permalink)
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wtf im fucking confused now. u just need the vacuum for load showing manifold pressure. maf is mainly for timing
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:41 PM   #75 (permalink)
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subscribed. I can't put any input in. Don't have FIC, and haven't made it that far. But good info. Continue friends.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:43 PM   #76 (permalink)
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honestly the reflash will b cheaper than going fic + harness + tune so i wouldnt see y anyone would pass it up. seems like a no brainer to me
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #77 (permalink)
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well depends still have to buy that tactrix cable. I haven't looked into the reflash as far as price or how exactly it's going to work. Wouldn't you still have to tune you're fuel map yourself?
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:46 PM   #78 (permalink)
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$225 tactrix 2.0 + i think $500 for reflash and tuning support. i would definately go with it but i am more than happy with where i am at now
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:47 PM   #79 (permalink)
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He said his o2 lines aren't hooked up...therefore it doesn't matter what he put in for the o2 values, it wasn't changing anything.

There's no reason for hooking into the o2 lines on an NA car, even 99% of the boost guys don't mess with it, you don't need to and it just causes more problems. Unless you're having a very specific problem that requires you to be hooked up to the o2 lines, leave them stock. Guys used to play with the o2 lines back when that was the only way to tune, that's not the case anymore...and with the increasing complexity of the ecus and EPA regulations it's way more of a hassle than it's worth and it really isn't needed.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:47 PM   #80 (permalink)
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yeah I guess so. The reflash offers more options, i haven't decided tho.
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