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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question In tank Walbro 255 Pump Install

Has anyone installed said pump without any other changes in fuel delivery and was able to drive the car?

IIRC, some people have swapped for Evo pumps, which are the same as the walbro's.
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Last edited by joeyb; May 17th, 2012 at 09:17 PM. Reason: In tank Walbro 255 Pump Install
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would like to know also....I have one waiting to go in, I just am unsure as to how to go about it....do you leave the stock one in there or not?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No point in running it inline with the in tank pump, it flows more than enough by itself. I just don't want to over power my injectors.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Is there an install kit for the 4g?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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probably out there somewhere... but all you need is the walbro pump, and a replacement fuel pump filter
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The 255 is too big to fit but can be forced in by making the hole bigger... It has been done b4... It's a drop in pump you must remove stock and install a regulator so you can turn it down to run like stock... What you doing to the car where you need this size pump man?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 04:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 04:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Unless you plan on a custom turbo there's no point, even at 12psi on ripps kit, the 565cc injects are running at like 35%. Honestly to run boost in dot think you'll even need injectors. The only reason Ripp used supplemental injectors is because it's easier then trying to build more custom electrons to go with the kit. If they just through in a FIC from the start it Would have cost the same, less fabrication, and less chance to blow your car up. If you aren't changing your pistons you aren't making enough power to need a larger pump.

Anyways, I believe the evo x is the same way, their is a kit out there which removes the stick canister from the assembly and replaces it with a piece of aluminum the walbro fits into. Hasn't been done yet on a 4G but I'm sure it will work.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 04:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ultimate Racing Evo X Walbro Fuel Pump Install Kits and Fuel Filter Kits! - evolutionm.net
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 04:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here the assembly, stock vs walbro, canister. The aluminum replaces the plastic live I'm trying to stuff it into.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 07:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Just what I needed to know! eRep for you guys!..... huh, someone rep twilson for me, since I can't
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Old August 4th, 2011, 08:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Old August 4th, 2011, 08:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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... and I got one for you for doing that
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Old August 4th, 2011, 08:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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did someone erep me for helping out defectedangle? =p
when you buy the walboro 255 it comes with the fuel filter than replaces stock. you cant just drop a new pump and drive the car. it will drive but if you want to accelerate or step on it it will bog. Why do you need a walboro 255lph?
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Old August 4th, 2011, 09:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I had bought it in anticipation for my GS FI project, but now that I'm doing the GT swap, I was thinking about using it there.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 11:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Just let it float around in the canister or do you zip tie it or something?
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Old August 4th, 2011, 12:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I wouldn't recommend zip ties, plastic and gasoline not going to go together well. On my 240sx, my walbro kit came with two 3" hose clamp

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Old October 25th, 2011, 01:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Any update on this I am about to buy one for my nitrous build. While tuning the other day I was able to get enough fuel so gunna change the jets and water pump
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Old October 25th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Not on my end, been putting it off
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Old October 25th, 2011, 04:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Damn I don't know what would fit in aftermarket wise except the evo x but I'm not spending $250.. Guess we will just have to do a little modification
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Old October 25th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The mod is easy, you just need to bore out the assembly to get the pump in it, you can't mess it up. It doesn't need to be sealed around the pump, it just needs to hold it.

Then you just need to control the pressure, this is the hard part.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 10:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trevroar View Post
The mod is easy, you just need to bore out the assembly to get the pump in it, you can't mess it up. It doesn't need to be sealed around the pump, it just needs to hold it.

Then you just need to control the pressure, this is the hard part.
From what I see the walbro pump is longer than the stock pump, it seems that the filter for it doesn't fit and the factory cradle won't fit with the walbro in there. It would seem that I have to run it w/o a sock on the pump, it's the only way I can bolt the assembly back together.

Is the walbro longer than the factory pump?

looks like I might have to cut the bottom out of the stock cradle for the pump to freely pull in fuel.

Any thoughts on this guys?
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Last edited by Steveo; November 22nd, 2011 at 10:14 PM.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 08:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo View Post
From what I see the walbro pump is longer than the stock pump, it seems that the filter for it doesn't fit and the factory cradle won't fit with the walbro in there. It would seem that I have to run it w/o a sock on the pump, it's the only way I can bolt the assembly back together.

Is the walbro longer than the factory pump?

looks like I might have to cut the bottom out of the stock cradle for the pump to freely pull in fuel.

Any thoughts on this guys?
this was done 2 years ago or 3 can't remember. but they are both similar the 255 with the stock pump. only difference it is thicker and it wont fit into canister. you will also need a FPR for it to work or fic.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 12:33 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Ya in the middle of install now. U have to use the oem filter, pump is slightly wider and longer. I'm just gunna regulate it with my fic
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 01:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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^pictures would be greatly appreciated, guys. I'm tempted to sticky this thread as a 'how-to' if we had a few more pics. I need them as a learning disabled retard...
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 04:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Friend is finishing it up tonight while I'm at work I will try to get him to snap a few
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Old November 24th, 2011, 04:51 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Not getting any pressure and the car won't start..any idea?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 05:56 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Can you hear the pump?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 08:04 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You can't regulate with the FIC....for can regulate what goes into the engine but you're going to have 3x the pressure and going to blow the high pressure hose or an injector o ring. The pump is longer and wider...Rre has pics posted how they did it. You have to bore the plastic canister and use wire to tie the bottom to it.

Not sure why you aren't getting power...bigger pimp my need more power. Possibly blew a fuse. It's going to take a few turns to fill the pump and the system up. You need a regulator before you can drive it...prob have to install it in the high pressure hose right before the rail.
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Old November 25th, 2011, 03:13 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Well I ordered the fuel pump kit hopefully it works or I'm fucked.. Car would start the 10 minutes later it wouldnt
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Old November 26th, 2011, 10:38 PM   #31 (permalink)
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The evoX kit?
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Old November 26th, 2011, 11:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Ya but got it to work so I'm sending it back just need to tune now running rich
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Old November 27th, 2011, 05:26 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Driving the car, havnt got on it but when she starts and I go I'm around 10.9 but once I drive and fuel pumps im around 12.4 13.1 gunna tune the nitrous and pull fuel this week
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Old November 27th, 2011, 07:48 AM   #34 (permalink)
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And still no regulator?
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Old November 27th, 2011, 11:12 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Be careful running too rich Steve, when you're running 10.1, you will begin to wash the oil off your cylinder walls, and that will lead to catastrophic disaster for your motor.
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Old November 27th, 2011, 03:37 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Ya it doesn't run at 10.1 for longer than 1 minute then between 12 and 13 tuner is supposed to come tonight and lean it out
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Old December 5th, 2011, 01:01 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb View Post
^pictures would be greatly appreciated, guys. I'm tempted to sticky this thread as a 'how-to' if we had a few more pics. I need them as a learning disabled retard...
I've drained all the old gas from my tank, so while in there I took a look at the fuel pump and snapped these pics.

Tools to remove fuel pump

- Medium tipped Philips screw driver
- 8mm Socket
- Small precision screw driver
- Well ventilated area

Start by depressurizing the fuel system (start the car, pull the fuel pump fuse, let car stall, then open the gas filler cap.) Then pull out the rear seat, there are two clips holding it down in the front of the seats. They come out with a good firm pull.

remove the four philips screws


Remove the two terminals, and then the high pressure hose by pinching in the sides of the clip, and it will pull out from the assembly.
Then, remove the six 8mm bolts,


The pump is spring loaded and will start to push up once the bolts are removed.


I didn't have a free hand to take pics for the next couple steps. But from here you will begin to remove the pump the from tank. First thing you want to do is detach a small hose from the assembly, it is held on by a spring clip, but can be easily pulled off, and actually easily put back on during re-assembly.

Now you are ready to pull it completely out of the tank, but keep in mind, that on the left hand side, looking down at the pump, is the float. You want to angle the pump so the float clears the tank and then the pump will come right out. Once you actually do this part you will see what I'm talking about.

Pump removed


the pump is clipped into the center of the assembly, here is how to get to it.

on the spring side, there is a "C" clip to remove on the bottom of the shaft, remove that clip with the small precision screw driver.




Then unplug the wire connectors


From here, you just need to release the tabs surround the pump. This is a pain in the ass by yourself as the tabs kept reseating themselves everytime I moved onto another tab. It would be helpful having an extra set of hands during for this. Once you get the tabs release, the pump pulls easily out.







From here its up to you. If you're replacing the pump for a larger one, you will need to bore out center piece that holds the pump. If you're replacing the fuel sock, you need to complete all the above steps as well to get to it.

I for one am not doing anything with it at the moment, so I can't give anymore info. Hope this helps for anyone taking on the task.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 11:18 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Hey guys just a thought, I took mine apart tonight to find out what the big deal was after coming across this thread. The Stock pump assembly uses a small hose to siphon fuel from the other side of the tank (saddle type tank), Most cars like this use a seperate pump on the other side to pump to this side. Anyway if you use the evoX install kit there you will be eliminating the cross over suction effect and potentially not getting all your fuel to the side you need it.
PLUS the way it works, or I see it, it takes a little bit of fuel from the HP side and runs it through a small hose into a siphon setup then the output goes to right infront of the inlet on the stock assembly. The stock fuel pump basket has a little check valve and I'm sure fuel will find its way through it using gravity but without the little bit of fuel that comes out of the hose from the siphon setup it will not open the check valve or get fuel from the other side.
Ah it's hard to explain, maybe I'll take some pictures tomorrow but its really not good to bypass this feature.

Anyway I will find the correct solution in the next couple of days but right now it's bedtime



hmmm
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Old February 14th, 2012, 02:08 AM   #39 (permalink)
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When I tried putting my walbro in it ended up messing up the in pump regulator..and since we don't have a return and I didnt wanna make my own I just put a new assembly in..it was a bitch car ran rough and a blew a hose in 1 day so car would take 2 starts to start up
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Old February 14th, 2012, 09:38 AM   #40 (permalink)
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It would be expensive to run a return line and do custom fuel rails and the whole 9 yards. On the cars I've done we just stuck the wally in the tank and it ran perfectly fine. As I recall there was some fandangling necessary to ensure the outlet of the pump sealed properly. The stock pump on the eclipse is pretty good - it's not like a honda that runs out at 220whp on every car.

FYI Nylon is fuel safe and you can use quality zip-ties (space age nylon retention devices) inside the tank. A number of OEs do it. 3m shrink tube is fuel safe as well but you have to read the MSDS sheet to make sure.

-Michael
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