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Old November 2nd, 2008, 07:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FINALLY, Ignition advance with the FIC revealed!!!

Ok guys, I've been asked MANY times about the ignition advance stuff I've mentioned before...I've been waiting for MikeW to send me some more information on his testing, but I'm sure he's been busy getting redy for SEMA...SOOOO, I'll get started on this and maybe he'll be able to chime in soon.

Ok...first off...people hve been asking "How much is it going to be for the timing control?" The answer is...it's FREE. I've personally spent ALOT of time on this, and I know Mike did as well, but together we decided to just give out the information for all to share...consider it an early Christmas present from BilletProof Racing and RRE! Just make sure to look us up first on your next purchase!

Ok...let's get started. If you already have the FIC and my harness, then you already have everything you're going to need for the ignition advance. You WILL NEED my harness for this as it has circuitry built into it to allow the MAF sensor to operate properly with the FIC. If you don't have the harness, the MAF sensor will not interface with the FIC. Something else you will want to get if you don't already have one is a CAN based OBD2 reader...you're going to want this to show you EXACTLY how much advance you are getting, as well as to read and clear any codes you might get along the way. I use the DashDAQ cause it does so much, but there are other less expensive ones that you could use as well.

The Eclipse uses the MAF sensor and NOT the MAP sensor as it's primary load sensor. I know it's kind of odd, but that's the way it is. You can change timing simply by changing the MAF signal to the ECU. However, you are going to want to change the MAP sensor as well...Mike was able to get about 10 more HP by using BOTH. The information I was wating for from Mike was a picture of the actual map he used in testing, but I haven't seen it yet...maybe he can chime in with that. Until then, I'll tell you what I figured out on my own and show you a few examples.

***NOTE*** The ECU pin that you will intercept for the MAP sensor is Pin 102 (Blue/red)...check the ECU connector pinout I included with the harness for the location of Pin 102.

I tried EVERYTHING on this car to move timing. I tried messing with IAT, ECT, MAP, etc. the MAF was the last thing I tried (always seems to work that way!)...but the MAF it was! Now, before I get too far, I will agree with all the haters and say that changing the MAF and MAP signals isn't the best way to get the job done. The best way would be to use a standalone that has full control over the timing maps. But since that's a very expensive venture, this way will have to do for now. Some will say, "well isn't this the same thing as something like a NEO that changes the MAF for fuel tuning?" The answer is, NO! Although some other units do manipulate the MAF signal, the difference is that they do it as a PRIMARY source of changing fueling...we don't. Our goal is to manipulate timing, and although this will cause some fueling changes by the ECU, we still have our primary fueling maps changing the injectors directly. Big difference. We can still have independent timing and fueling control.

SO, how is it done??? Ok, a passthru map for the MAF sensor would look something like this...




Now, if you look at this map you will see that no matter what RPM you are at, the MAF signal going out of the FIC is the same (or very close to the same) as what is coming in. This is what we call a passthru map. It doesn't really change anything, so the ECU would basically see what it would've seen without the FIC installed. NOW, the way to get ignition advance is to "pull" some voltage from the MAF sensor, which will send a slightly lower voltage level to the ECU so the ECU will think that there isn't such a high load...the more load you have (high MAF numbers) the less ignition advance you have and vise-versa. Now, there is a limit to this...you can't just pull a whole bunch of voltage and expect it to just keep advancing the timing...it won't. You also have to be careful how much you pull from where as well...this ECU is extremely picky. But here's the good news...with this high-tech ECU we have it's near impossible to actually damage anything. If you pull too much from the MAF the car just won't run right, or it may not run at all...but it won't really hurt anything, just re-adjust the number and you're back to where you started. Some of the lower number are EXTREMELY sensitive to small changes as well. For example, while testing I was watching my DashDAQ and I was just cruising on the highway and it showed 29 degrees of timing...I changed the voltage in that cell from 2.88 to 2.86 and the ignition advance immediately jumped to 30. I pulled another .02v down to 2.84 and it went to 31 degrees. I couldn't believe it was that sensitive, so I adjusted back to 2.88 in one changed and sure enough it went right back to 29 degrees. So, in some cells and at some throttle openings these voltages are very sensitive and can make a big difference. You will need bigger changes as you go higher in the RPM's in order to get more timing, so the changes need to be increased as you go up...

For example, look at this map below.....




Now, notice that I left the bottom of the map alone...so the MAF signal is basically stock until higher load values...I started making changes at 3.12v on the left scale...notice I pulled .06v and put a 3.06v value all the way across the RPM range. Now, the next row up is the 3.44v row, notice I pulled .15v down to 3.29v, then the next row was 3.75v and I pulled .25v down to 3.5v and so on...this is what I meant when I said you will have to pull more voltage as the input increases. Now, these numbers aren't exact, and you may have different results, but this is the IDEA. You may need to change more or less for a given situation, but you will end up with a similar pattern.

While this would be best done on a dyno, you can do it on the street. That's what I did and I used the DashDAQ to monitor the ignition advance while we changed the voltages. One thing you can to to get better control of the timing is to re-scale the left scale. Instead of equal increments over the 0-5v range, you could do something like the following...





Notice that the first three rows go 0, 1, 1.7...the reason I picked 1.7 is because this is about the voltage the ECU sees at idle on a GT. It's important to have this value be accurate otherwise the car won't start. If you mess with it that low, you'll find that the ECU won't like it much...it's very picky. Now, also notice that by rescaling the map from 1.7 to 5 we've got more rows up top to work with which gives us more control and better resolution. You can rescale these maps however you want...if you find you don't use an area but it's taking up 5 cells then shrink those 5 cells to 2 and rescale the three you free up to get better control in another area. Keep in mind that the FIC will interpolate between cells, but you will always have more control the closer the cells are to each other (or the more cells you have to work with over a given range.) For example, if you find that you aren't making any ignition changes below the 3v range, then you might want to do 0, 1, 1.7, 2.4, 3...and then rescale from 3-5v...that would give you 13 rows between 3-5v which would give you much better resolution. Again, keep in mind, these are just suggestions, concepts to follow...your numbers may be more or less.

Now, this same concept will be used with the MAP sensor map as well. You'll want to hook the MAP sensor line to one of the unused channels on the FIC...A or B, it doesn't matter. You could just do the MAF line, however, you won't get as good of gains that way. This is the info I was looking for from Mike on the dyno...this was verified during his testing and it was definitely better to change them both. Also, he mentioned if you go too far you will start to lose power...I verified this on the MAF line as well. Keep in mind...it's really hard to hurt anything...if you pull too much voltage and it starts to knock, the ECU knock circuit will see this and pull timing as a safety measure. Just try some different things and watch the DashDAQ (or other scantool) and you'll be fine.

If anyone is thinking of getting a DashDAQ, let me know as I'm a dealer for them. Also, they are rolling out some SICK stuff at SEMA in two days. I've got it here, but I can't release any info till SEMA. Also, I've been working with them on getting some Mitsubishi specific PID's setup on the DashDAQ...this should allow us to see knock/knock retard and other things that no other scantools currently provide. I'll keep you posted on this as we go this week, I'm going to talk with them in person at SEMA and see what the timeframe is.

Well, I guess that's about it for now...I'm sure there will be some questions so, throw em' out there.

Brian

Last edited by BrianJ; March 26th, 2009 at 03:03 PM.
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 07:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 08:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does this mumbo jumbo confusion have to do with the governor?
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 09:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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whoo hooooo already got the fic and harness from you, just need to use this info and I'm set!!! THanks a lot fellas and I go to rre first for my goods!
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 09:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Does this mumbo jumbo confusion have to do with the governor?

What??? This is all about how to get ignition advance for more power.
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 10:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Geez... and for two years I was under the impression that Mitsu finally gave way for MAP as the primary! That definitely does NOT make things as easy for folks with FI aspirations as I originally thought.

Now as far as tweaking load values for... :sigh:... fooling the ECU, was there a max limit found for keeping the ECU happy?

I haven't checked in with the whole reflash issue lately, but messing with timing maps on a hypersensitive ECU still seems finicky to me, unless strides have already been made to find that "sweet spot", which I obviously have no clue where to begin, as I haven't messed with anything engine nor ECU with this car... yet. Call it inexperience, but my dealings with getting the stock ECU to cooperate have never been nice. Though admittedly it's with the 3G.

I'd think a solution you would offer would come in the form of map "profiles"? Say, pre-canned maps for mild/safe or aggressive street options?
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Geez... and for two years I was under the impression that Mitsu finally gave way for MAP as the primary! That definitely does NOT make things as easy for folks with FI aspirations as I originally thought.
Not sure what you meant about it not being good for the boost guys...they aren't having any problems other than normal stuff from my understanding...???


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Now as far as tweaking load values for... :sigh:... fooling the ECU, was there a max limit found for keeping the ECU happy?
It depends on where you are at in the range...you can't pull .3v at the 1.7v level or the car won't run...and likewise, i yo don't pull at least .3v out up top you won't get any advance. I pulled values all day one time and the ECU only threw an occasional code for MAF/MAP correlation, that's what you'll see if you take one too far without the other.


Quote:
I haven't checked in with the whole reflash issue lately, but messing with timing maps on a hypersensitive ECU still seems finicky to me, unless strides have already been made to find that "sweet spot", which I obviously have no clue where to begin, as I haven't messed with anything engine nor ECU with this car... yet. Call it inexperience, but my dealings with getting the stock ECU to cooperate have never been nice. Though admittedly it's with the 3G.
I've spent countless amounts of time on this, and the best way to see it is to buy a scantool and watch it for yourself...it's really not hard...just pull a little voltage and watch the result.


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I'd think a solution you would offer would come in the form of map "profiles"? Say, pre-canned maps for mild/safe or aggressive street options?

Could be done, maybe after SEMA I'll sit down with it for a bit if I have time...problem is that's going to take alot of time without having the stock timing maps to reference...not sure if it would be worth it for me...I mean, I did just tell everyone how to do it for free...I can definitely get you 7-8 degrees more on the top end though...
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 02:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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im lost

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Old November 3rd, 2008, 03:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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im lost

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Read this if you don't want to be lost anymore...

Ignition timing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just came a little bit...

whats even better is i know exactly what you are talking about. i was messing with this before i left, only i didnt know what i was looking for. now i just have to figure out how to actually rescale the columns... and i know you have exlained it to me before.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I brainj
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 04:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I just came a little bit...
You might wanna get that looked at, it seems to happen alot to you...leaky seal or something...


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whats even better is i know exactly what you are talking about. i was messing with this before i left, only i didnt know what i was looking for. now i just have to figure out how to actually rescale the columns... and i know you have exlained it to me before.
To rescale the coumns, you highlight the column cells you want to scale and right click and choose "calculate"...this will recalculate the cell values evenly from lowest to highest.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 04:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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so, to do an entire set, you have to highlight all the cells repeat said process...

but the cells that i want to set the amount for, i just set the amount and omit that cell from the "calculate" function?
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 06:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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so, to do an entire set, you have to highlight all the cells repeat said process...

but the cells that i want to set the amount for, i just set the amount and omit that cell from the "calculate" function?

??? Um...I'm confused now...

Ok let's say you put 0, 1, 1.7, 2, 3.............5, you would highlight all the cells starting at 3 and ending at 5...in this case there would be 13 cells highlighted, the 3 the 5 and 11 cells in between. Hit calculate and it will evenly populate the other 11 cells between 3 and 5. There's all kinds of right click tricks/tips in the manual for the FIC...it's worth a read...it'll definitely save you some time.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 08:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great news! Thank you very much for your contribution. I have the FIC, DashDaq and your harness (all purchased from RRE, besides other things). Will this have beneficts when I install the Supercharger kit? Anyway, I will try to test all combinations ang get dynos for each step:

- N/A;
- N/A + Brian Ignition Timing;
- SDS;
- SDS + Brian Ignition Timing;

N/A = Injen CAI, Injen Full Exhaust, Ripp Header;

Thank you again,
Best regards,
Ziki
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Old November 6th, 2008, 08:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Maybe I missed it but how do you know where the best value for timing is?
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Old November 7th, 2008, 11:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Maybe I missed it but how do you know where the best value for timing is?
That question is much more complicated then you think. I recommend getting some books on fuel injection systems and engine management.
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Old November 8th, 2008, 03:01 AM   #18 (permalink)
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OK so let me ask this is one of those pictures up there what the end product is suppose to look like when done tweaking? How much difference is there between this and the GS?
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Old November 8th, 2008, 04:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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OK so let me ask this is one of those pictures up there what the end product is suppose to look like when done tweaking? How much difference is there between this and the GS?
You'll end up something like the middle picture.
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Old November 8th, 2008, 10:19 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Manuals are for you smart people. I just ask you smart people dumb questions that I could answer by reading the manual.

I think they may have redone the released material because I honestly don't remember seeing any of that during the 60 or so times I read the thing. Most of my book talks about boost settings...
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Old November 10th, 2008, 02:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Manuals are for you smart people. I just ask you smart people dumb questions that I could answer by reading the manual.

I think they may have redone the released material because I honestly don't remember seeing any of that during the 60 or so times I read the thing. Most of my book talks about boost settings...
NP...so, have you made an ignition map yet? You and a few others have been begging for this info for a long time...
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Old November 20th, 2008, 09:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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hahahaha im in iraq still... gimme a few more days and i will build a map the best i can. i will most likely use one of your example maps and mod it from there.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 03:34 AM   #23 (permalink)
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<---- BEEN WAITING FOR THIS SHIT FOR A MIN NOW!


Alright.... WTF..... THIS IS AWSOME. THANK YOU BRIANJ!

Its just too bad that I no longer have a job due to Lay Offs and my car has a flat tire that i don't have the money to fix right now! LOL

As soon as i can throw a new tire on my car I’ll be all over this shit like a "100 FAT KIDs FIGHTING FOR THE LAST SLICE OF CAKE". Fuckin awesome... your da man.


Q: Its gona vary but what kind of timing numbers where you able to pull before it started to break up on the test car? Started with and finished where? Just generally speaking....


As soon as i can start messing with it i'll share my findings and dyno results....




THANKS BrianJ, MikeW, and RRE for all your guys support!
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 05:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Live4Redline View Post
<---- BEEN WAITING FOR THIS SHIT FOR A MIN NOW!


Alright.... WTF..... THIS IS AWSOME. THANK YOU BRIANJ!

Its just too bad that I no longer have a job due to Lay Offs and my car has a flat tire that i don't have the money to fix right now! LOL

As soon as i can throw a new tire on my car Iíll be all over this shit like a "100 FAT KIDs FIGHTING FOR THE LAST SLICE OF CAKE". Fuckin awesome... your da man.


Q: Its gona vary but what kind of timing numbers where you able to pull before it started to break up on the test car? Started with and finished where? Just generally speaking....


As soon as i can start messing with it i'll share my findings and dyno results....




THANKS BrianJ, MikeW, and RRE for all your guys support!
LOL..."last slice of cake"... that shit's funny!

On the question of how much timing...I'm not sure...Mike was supposed to send me some map files, but I haven't talked to him in awhile... I know in my testing I was able to get 7 more degrees up top, and honestly, I didn't shoot for any more...the car pulled hard and I knew the concept worked so I left it alone and sent Mike the mivec controller and all the info I compiled. I figured I'd let him test it all on the dyno and send me the info later. He did say it was best to do both the MAF and the MAP, but I haven't seen an actual map file to know where he ended up. If you pull too much it'll start losing power and it'll start pulling timing back out, so you should be able to find the max under any given condition.

Just follow the instructions I gave and you'll be fine. I thought about building a complete timing map, but that would take awhile...I'd have to have some guaranteed buyers before I put in that kind of time...

Brian
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Old February 5th, 2009, 12:50 AM   #25 (permalink)
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BrianJ,

Any updates or info from you and/or MikeW lately? I noticed that this thread has been sleeping since nov.

As i read more and more and hangout here at Club4G i find myself more and more interested in the FI/C and tuning, especially since i have been doing a few good mods to my GT

Thanks in advance
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Old February 5th, 2009, 03:31 AM   #26 (permalink)
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No new updates...I've haven't got anything new from Mike...

There's been more than a few people though who have put this info to good use and are running great...One guy posted a dyno sheet on .com at 289hp...others have got an additional 8-10 on top of just the fuel tuning. It works.

Brian
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Old February 5th, 2009, 08:53 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Yeah that is me 289whp, but i need more...

It works great the harness BrianJ made was the real nice, the shop that installed it for me installs a lot of FIC's and they said it was one of the nicest harnesses they ever seen...

If you already have I/H/E you are really missing out.... Order it up tufduc what you waiting for....
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Old February 5th, 2009, 04:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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QUICK...

Check your PM's on the .com
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Old February 5th, 2009, 07:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Is that for me? I can't cuz i am proudly banned

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QUICK...

Check your PM's on the .com
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Old February 5th, 2009, 07:34 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Lol...no, that was for xxQUICKxx...
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Old September 17th, 2009, 07:50 AM   #31 (permalink)
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No new updates...I've haven't got anything new from Mike...

There's been more than a few people though who have put this info to good use and are running great...One guy posted a dyno sheet on .com at 289hp...others have got an additional 8-10 on top of just the fuel tuning. It works.

Brian
Hello again BrianJ...
So, I read that a special circuit is involved with your PnP harness for the FIC to understand and modify the MAF. I know this is a 4G Eclipse forum, but I have a Lancer Ralliart 4G69. The ECU plugs are not the same for both (I believe), so I don't think that harness would work for me and I ask:
I have a damaged Lancer Ralliart 4G69 ECU laying around. If I read correctly, you're the creator of that PnP harness(or the one who distributes them, I don't know). What if I mailed you that ECU? Would you be able to replicate that PnP with the circuitry to modify MAF for my ECU? I can provide the ECU pinouts info for it, as well as a pic of the plugs. If this is possible, where could I buy it? I'm searching for "BilletRacing", but I'm not sure what I'm looking for... Since I would be sending an ECU, my 4G69 could be the guinea pig for this harness...
I'm not looking for the timing advance option just yet since I see that your fuel is being modified via the injector harness. It's nice, but I want to do this bit by bit. I just want to be able to modify the MAF signal, and maybe O2 sensors, using the FIC 6 for now.
Let's say the harness can't be done... Would I be able to use the circuitry for the MAF by just using what I need from your harness? Meaning, using your harness without the plugs to properly connect the MAF to the FIC.
Sorry to ask this much... Like I've read a lot here through other threads, evolutionm.net does have a lot info on the engine, but it's the modifying or electronics that they don't say too much about because of "secrecy" between the people who know, and ignorance from others(like me).
Let me know...
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Old September 17th, 2009, 07:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Hello again BrianJ...
So, I read that a special circuit is involved with your PnP harness for the FIC to understand and modify the MAF. I know this is a 4G Eclipse forum, but I have a Lancer Ralliart 4G69. The ECU plugs are not the same for both (I believe), so I don't think that harness would work for me and I ask:
I have a damaged Lancer Ralliart 4G69 ECU laying around. If I read correctly, you're the creator of that PnP harness(or the one who distributes them, I don't know). What if I mailed you that ECU? Would you be able to replicate that PnP with the circuitry to modify MAF for my ECU? I can provide the ECU pinouts info for it, as well as a pic of the plugs. If this is possible, where could I buy it? I'm searching for "BilletRacing", but I'm not sure what I'm looking for... Since I would be sending an ECU, my 4G69 could be the guinea pig for this harness...
I'm not looking for the timing advance option just yet since I see that your fuel is being modified via the injector harness. It's nice, but I want to do this bit by bit. I just want to be able to modify the MAF signal, and maybe O2 sensors, using the FIC 6 for now.
Let's say the harness can't be done... Would I be able to use the circuitry for the MAF by just using what I need from your harness? Meaning, using your harness without the plugs to properly connect the MAF to the FIC.
Sorry to ask this much... Like I've read a lot here through other threads, evolutionm.net does have a lot info on the engine, but it's the modifying or electronics that they don't say too much about because of "secrecy" between the people who know, and ignorance from others(like me).
Let me know...

Got any high res pics of the connectors that plug into the ECU? That would tell me the most about whether or not I can do a PnP.

As for the MAF sensor...is it the same sensor as the 4G? If so, then yes, I can interface it. If it's a frequency based sensor (karman vortex) then you'll need the FIC8 as it's the only one with karman based compatibility...

Brian
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Old September 18th, 2009, 04:56 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Got any high res pics of the connectors that plug into the ECU? That would tell me the most about whether or not I can do a PnP.

As for the MAF sensor...is it the same sensor as the 4G? If so, then yes, I can interface it. If it's a frequency based sensor (karman vortex) then you'll need the FIC8 as it's the only one with karman based compatibility...

Brian
Do you happen to have the part number for your MAF? I can take the pics, but I need a day or 2 to do so...
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 09:34 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Got any high res pics of the connectors that plug into the ECU? That would tell me the most about whether or not I can do a PnP.

As for the MAF sensor...is it the same sensor as the 4G? If so, then yes, I can interface it. If it's a frequency based sensor (karman vortex) then you'll need the FIC8 as it's the only one with karman based compatibility...

Brian
Sorry for the delay... I'm waiting on a new ECU I ordered. I had some problems with the stock ECU and replaced it with one that I didn't know was a California Emissions ECU. This was giving some problems, starting with the fact that it completely leaned out my AFR's (from low 12's on the stock one to high 15's on the Cali one). This gave me some issues with a couple of sensors and false DTC's, and the rev limiter went up about 400rpm's more. It did give me like a 6hp gain, but the ride's behavior was awful, getting a lot misfires and fuel cuts randomly throughout the rpm's. Once I get the ECU, I'll get you the high res pics you want from the plugs(the ones that go in the ECU, right). I'm just waiting on the new one so that I don't have to disconnect and reconnect and start having issues again with the ECU I currently have.
I've been searching for the 4G Eclipse's part numbers, but I can't find them... Did you get the part number for your MAF?
Later,
Carlos
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 03:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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OK can't find a Mitsubishi part number but here is the ACDELCO Part # 2134423, and the A-1 CARDONE Part # 7450046. Thats all I could find and here is a list of vehicles that all run the same MAF sensor

MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GS(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SE 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GS(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR 2004
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR SE(2007 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR XLS 2005
MITSUBISHI GALANT 2004
MITSUBISHI GALANT DE(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI GALANT ES(2005 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT GTS(2005 - 2007)
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI GALANT RALLIART(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT EDITION 2009
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT V6 2009
MITSUBISHI LANCER DE(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER ES(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION GSR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION MR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER GTS(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER RALLIART(2004 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER SPORTBACK 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER ES(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SE(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER XLS(2005 - 2009)
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 04:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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MR985187 is the part number for the stock maf sensor
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 04:47 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I searched for hours where did you find that at lol
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 04:54 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Ok after reverse searching with the number BrianJ gave the list of cars that use this still stands plus some that I wont add because there not available in the US
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 11:32 PM   #39 (permalink)
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MR985187 is the part number for the stock maf sensor
OK. Same part number in mine...
I have a list from evom at my cardomain site (ride number: 2667426, since I can't post url's yet)
I'm looking at both Eclipse's and RA's service manuals and found something that might help. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see that much difference as far as communication inside the ECU goes. I'm trying to attach pics but I can't. You can see them on page 6 of my cardomain site, ride 2667426. I found Eclipse's FSM here, if you need the RA's let me know...
My guess, nobody that has tried the FIC on the RA has actually done the modification needed for it to actually read our MAF. All I can find is that "It didn't work", but nobody talks about modifying the wiring in any way.
Also (out of topic), how do I insert the pics so that they show within the post, and not as an attachment?
Thanks, and I hope we can get somewhere with this. I've been seriously thinking 'bout the reflash since no one came with another solution for RA owners, but the fact that it's a "standard tune" and I can't do shit to my liking just pisses me off.
Thanks again,
Carlos

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Old September 23rd, 2009, 12:41 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
OK. Same part number in mine...
I have a list from evom at my cardomain site (ride number: 2667426, since I can't post url's yet)
I'm looking at both Eclipse's and RA's service manuals and found something that might help. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see that much difference as far as communication inside the ECU goes. I'm trying to attach pics but I can't. You can see them on page 6 of my cardomain site, ride 2667426. I found Eclipse's FSM here, if you need the RA's let me know...
My guess, nobody that has tried the FIC on the RA has actually done the modification needed for it to actually read our MAF. All I can find is that "It didn't work", but nobody talks about modifying the wiring in any way.
Also (out of topic), how do I insert the pics so that they show within the post, and not as an attachment?
Thanks, and I hope we can get somewhere with this. I've been seriously thinking 'bout the reflash since no one came with another solution for RA owners, but the fact that it's a "standard tune" and I can't do shit to my liking just pisses me off.
Thanks again,
Carlos
I'll take a look at the RA manual if you can get it to me...

Also, go take a picture of the ecu plugs even though they're plugged in...I'll be able to tell what kind they are.

If you have the same MAF sensor as us, then yes, they would've had trouble with the FIC. I've got special circuitry built-in to my harnesses that allow you to properly interface that MAF sensor. I'm curious if anyone tried the FIC and DID NOT hook up the maf line...? Probably would've worked fine if they did...

At any rate...I really need to see those ECU plugs to see if they are the one's I have the PnP terminals for...and as for the MAF sensor, I can make that work.

Brian
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2.4, back, car, eclipse, ecu, fic, fuel, good, injectors, lower, mitsubishi, mivec, move, racing, rre, setup, show, sick, stock, street, timing, top, tuning, uni, work

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