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Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension Slip and slide discussion


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Old February 9th, 2011, 01:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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D2 Racing Coilovers Review

Ok well this is the second attempt on the review since the first was completely erased soon as i press preview post and was logged off since i took my time..

I installed as soon as it arrived at my door. I just got the whip a month ago and my plan was to go stance/sleeper. I will use the drag strip after a few bolt ons to see what times i'll get. Mostly just want to ride the lowlife and have comfort while doing so. Only upgrades so far is ddm 12k heads 3k fogs and now these coilovers. Not rich, just working harder, double shifts like crazy to get my toys.

OEM status, next mod is pulley, cai fujita 1 piece w/bypass..


comes with everything you need to bolt on and go. You won't be needing the 4 rubber bushings for the brake lines, universal pieces. You WILL need 2 metal zipties and dremil. I will come back to this.
***tighten the camber plates with the allen wrench that comes in the bag, i assumed it was tightened and the camber went all the way negative soon as it was off the jackstands***



I recommend having the front on jackstands to have a smoother job and also less stress on the sway bar links


One last look at my oem 60k miles struts..



Here we go. I removed in this order:
-brake line off bracket on strut (keep clip)
-this black cable behind the brake has a bracket holding it against strut.(1 bolt) then pry the bracket off the black cable.
-sway bar link off strut
-bottom 2 strut bolt
-top plate 3 bolts


Comparing D2's and oem front struts. The center ring on the D2's is where the sway bar link atttaches to. I try to have this ring same height as how the oem has it.


Here is where you need dremil. These comes with universal brakeline brackets and they dont fit on the strut bolt. Use dremil and shave inside the hole until it fits snug on bolt. This goes on the upper bolt of the 2 bolts. Then bend about 120 degrees.


Here is where metal zipties come in. Theres black cable coming off behind the brake. Where you pryed off bracket,there was extra rubber skin on black cable. Ziptie around this to the sway bar link rod.


Don't forget to lube the ball joints. Lube comes in the box as well.


Comparing rear struts.


Oh yea, MUST take all rear plastic interior off to get the top 3 strut bolts off.


Back is hella easy.
-remove top 3 bolts
-1 bolt off bottom


I adjusted rear cambers myself. I set the rears all the way in on both sides. I do this because if im paying any store to do this, thats all there going to do. Even maxing out the cambers in, rear wheels still sitting a lil slant. Is because rear is about 3 inch lowered.


Finally, adjusting the hard/soft. I went all the way HARD, and didn't want to try anything else. It felt really confortable and stiff. Glides on corners. Like a cloud on the freeway. If your going into circuit or autocross, i would highly recommend a higher spring rate.


You can ride REALLY LOW on just adjusting the body of the shock instead of the spring perch. I bind my cv joints riding real low only adjusting the body. I would touch the floor if i ever try to lower the spring perch, most likely only on car shows.

Just to inform, all coilovers are ment for tracks, NOT street. Tracks don't have bumps,cracks or deep holes in them. I would'nt blame the manufacturer (ei. tein ss, D2's..) for blown shock after plunging down on a hole in high speed. Blame the driver and hopfully your still have the warrenty when this happens. Happend to my friend with tein ss, warrenty gave him another one.

I am fully satisfied on this product. Only down side is modifiaction you have to do on universal brake line bracket. Other then that, everything is sweet.

Any questions or comments are allowed, this is the first time i did a review and i know is not perfect.

lowlife is the life.
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Old February 9th, 2011, 01:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Couldnt fit anymore pics on thread, heres more

BEFORE



AFTER

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Old February 9th, 2011, 02:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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that is just straight sexy dammmmm
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Old February 9th, 2011, 06:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Very nice. Amazing how much sexier the car is dropped especially on coilovers
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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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great process and pic layout, i just hope it's that easy for my 09 gt.

at the very least, i have a pretty good idea what i am in store for when i go coilover, thanks for that!

although it's my last point, it ain't my least point... damn that makes a killer difference on the profile, great shots of the more aggressive stance of the car, it looks great!
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Old February 10th, 2011, 09:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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oh man thanks so much. +mega rep. I will need this walkthrough here in a few weeks when mine get here. book marking it now. thanks man.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 10:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yea I installed this myself with a box of craftmans and a pipe for leverege. Btw, the Cavalier is my other puppy. Cops here love her.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 10:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Great write-up and even better results. Got you an E-rep
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Old February 11th, 2011, 11:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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fucking sweet looks great! Good write up
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Old February 11th, 2011, 11:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ride quality?
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Old February 13th, 2011, 12:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Riding estimate 3" drop all around ONLY adjusting shock body perch and set on hard all around. On the streets, TO ME it feels like the car is not even moving.

For example, no more rocking when I shift. Does not shake or rock when I hit the brakes. Sits level when I switch lanes. You WILL feel stuff like the reflectors bumps on the road, but thats if your set on full hard like me. Have not autocross yet nor will I any time soon.

Hope this answers ur question Kevin.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 10:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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love it mike. love it. can't freakin wait for my set to get here - probably arrive around the 25th; hope you don't mind me asking you questions during the install if I have trouble - which is likely.
man I almost switched to a different brand - glad now that I didn't. I am pumped.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 10:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Man what a huge diff job well done I can't wait to get mine.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 08:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I hope they are better quality than there lowering spring those are going in the trash soon
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Old February 15th, 2011, 08:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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^really? that's not what I want to hear...
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Old February 15th, 2011, 09:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Those spings are so fucking bouncey they piss me off
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Old February 17th, 2011, 10:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Sheesh, look at that monster truck in the first before picture! Thanks for the quality review!
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Old February 18th, 2011, 05:28 AM   #18 (permalink)
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^really? that's not what I want to hear...
I had some D2's on my 3G, they were great!
and man, the difference from OEM height to dropped is wow....
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Old February 18th, 2011, 09:53 AM   #19 (permalink)
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oh man I am sooooooooooooooooooooo pumped

my falkens are demonic and I can't wait to slam my car down
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Old March 7th, 2011, 10:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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ok I have my rear ones on there but they are way too high. I'm going to have to re-adjust them....guess you just have to use a jack to push the rotor assembly back up a lot more so the new strut can slide onto it? right?
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Old March 8th, 2011, 03:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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^someone who knows how to install coilovers answer my question please!

is it OK to just jack that whole hub assembly up to the new height? I'm not going to break it, right?
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Old March 8th, 2011, 03:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You got some more pics After lowering the car? That Looks badass!!
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Old March 8th, 2011, 04:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I tell you just having the rear ones on there I can tell a pretty significant difference. ride quality is awesome. no doubt bumpy when the road is rough, but very very smooth for a racing strut assembly.
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Old March 9th, 2011, 03:54 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Old March 10th, 2011, 08:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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ok I have my rear ones on there but they are way too high. I'm going to have to re-adjust them....guess you just have to use a jack to push the rotor assembly back up a lot more so the new strut can slide onto it? right?
jack up the rotor assembly?
It's less stress to the threads on coilovers if you jack the corner of chasis til wheel is on the air, then adjust sleeve ring.
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Old March 14th, 2011, 02:20 AM   #26 (permalink)
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^hmmmm ok thanks man. I think I know what you are getting at....I think
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Old March 14th, 2011, 11:51 PM   #27 (permalink)
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If you were gunna raise the hub assembly (the lower arm im assuming) with jack, strut is still compressed,like if it was still on the ground.

Use the jacking points under the car instead, strut will decompress, easier on threads to adjust height.
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Old March 16th, 2011, 03:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Pic request.justa preview. Going to make my own thread on members ride soon as i get a good camera.




Bend axles. Buy more. Get back on the grind.
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Old January 7th, 2012, 12:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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ordering mine with-in the next week can't wait to get them in for spring time!
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Old January 7th, 2012, 07:28 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Bend axels??? Howd u do that???
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Old January 7th, 2012, 09:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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the guy hasnt been here for a year, dont expect a quick answer
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Old February 11th, 2012, 10:42 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I broke 2 wrenchs, and my impact wrenches cant even remove those fucking bottom 2 strut bolts.... WTF!!!! 500lbs of fucking torque?!
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Old February 11th, 2012, 10:48 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Fucking christ.... a can of pb , and 5 mintues constant on that damn bolt, and it loosened...

...Now, what would I use for initial spring settings?

Im suprised no one on here asked that.
What I did was after I tightened the springs until they stopped spinning, I tightened it 4 half circle turns. I will let you guys know how it feels in a bit.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:33 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Bend axels??? Howd u do that???
Sry for the delay. I have replaced driver side axle because the boot broke off due to rubbing. boot rubs hot enough to melt away because of the way the arm of the axle bends (lower the car, worse the angle of axle will be) and smell the boot after hitting 80 mph. lesson learned.
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:44 PM   #35 (permalink)
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so.... you replaced it and dont drive over 80mph? c/ its just gunna happen again isnt it?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 09:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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^im too asking myself this, so just dont put it too slammed to prevent the boot rub?
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Old May 3rd, 2012, 10:29 PM   #37 (permalink)
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so.... you replaced it and dont drive over 80mph? c/ its just gunna happen again isnt it?
Well ever since, I've never passed 70mph on the freeway. Rubbing boot doesnt hurt until you pass a certain speed (about 80mph), plus you can smell it even within the cabin w/windows up.
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Old May 4th, 2012, 09:52 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Im terrified to go over 75 because of how stiff my coils are and how hard it sounds when hit an uneven part ofnthe highway. Lol. I normally do 65. How long did you leave your boot ripped for before it started to melt the axel?
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Old May 4th, 2012, 10:02 AM   #39 (permalink)
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so what do you boys recomend? raise up before highway travel so to not worry about staying within a certain speed?
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Old May 4th, 2012, 10:54 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Idk, this is the first ive heard of this haopening. Mine, kevins and cmattox cv boots are all ripped. And im sure tons others too. :/
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