Forum FYI: Upgrades Needed for a Fully Built 4g Eclipse

[joeyb]

Hello all, here is a thread I thought I'd throw up in case anyone is interested in what it will take to fully build your motor. It was made w/ the 6G75 in mind, but most will certainly apply to the 4 cylinder motor. We will add and modify as guys who are smarter then me post up and correct and add. This will be "living" post and constantly modified on post #1 as people add info to it. Of course there are similar threads about where to start modding, or a specific part of the build, etc. - but the sole intent of this post is for someone looking to fully build their motor and with out boost or nitrous at this time. No visual, style, or audio modifications are included - this is a performance only thread.

General Advice for Improving Performance (or any modification to your car):

1. Research, research, research. Make sure you understand the modification, why it works the way it does, and WHAT ELSE it may require - i.e., other modifications that may go along with it.
2. Be shrewd with money.
3. Be Patient with your plans/desires/wants.
4. Understand the trade-off or inverse relationships between various aspects of modifications. I.e. - stiffening your suspension will make performance GO UP, but will also make your ride comfort GO DOWN. Nearly everything has some sort of trade off that you should be aware of.
5. Maybe most importantly, especially w/ performance modifications. ---> Do it right the first time.

This thread was started with the idea of primarily building an Naturally Aspirated (N-A) or ALL MOTOR platform; - it has since been expanded to include lists for Nitrous, Supercharging, or Turbo applications, which are mentioned at the bottom in Sections #5 & #6.

I tried to break it down into a few sections - MUST HAVE (#1), Highly Recommended (#2), Recommended for more power to the ground (#3), and smaller items that will add up to big gains if you can get them done (#4), Forced Induction Components (#5), Nitrous Components (#6).

so here we go...........

# of "*" next to the entry is the mechanical skill level required to install the part:
* = Very Easy, should be able to do by yourself w/ decent instructions.
** = Some modding experience recommended, but still do-able for the average gear head.
*** = Not recommended for anyone who does not have at least a year or two experience working on cars.
**** = Major mechanical job, recommended to be done by a professional mechanic or supervised by someone who has this level of skill.
================================================== ====================

#1) For over 400 or 500 WHP - MUST HAVE COMPONENTS:

• Forged pistons....$700 - $1000****
  + machine work (bore +1mm).....$150 - $300 - use of torque plate for 6G75 recommended; only 1 in existence;
  must rent from joeyb, or make your own.
• Forged Connecting Rods w/ top end fasteners (should come with the rods)........$550 - $800****
• Valves, Springs, Retainers, Lifter Package from Delta Cams.....$400****
  + machine work (debar Intake manifold & port n' polish).....$300 - $550***
• Bearing Package..$300 - $450****
• ARP head studs/bolts...................$250***
• Gasket Package - preferably high-end product w/ strong material end to hold max power***
• Headers - either shorties or long-tubes (RIPP, OBX, or RRE) *Note: Long Tubes REQUIRED for Forced Induction**
• Cat-Back System - the very best you can afford recommended. 2.5" for most, but 3" if you are eventually going FI.**
• Cold Air Intake (CAI) or Short Ram Intake (SRI) ......$150 - $275 (for N/A cars)*
• Forced Induction - Supercharger / Turbo - see section #5 below.****
• Nitrous Package - see section #6 below. - won't achieve this level of WHP w/out this or an FI system.***
• Need all components from section #2 below.

#2) For ~300 - 400 WHP HIGHLY RECOMMENDED COMPONENTS:

• Limited Slip Differential "pozzy" ......$900 from RRE; expensive w/ another $500 - $600 to install (if getting clutch, install at the same time)****
• Clutch Stage 3 at least, Stage 4+ ideal; this will be an enormous upgrade that will take your car up a level...$900 - $1100****
  
• Coilovers........$900 for D2s - which are bad to the F*cking bone, but there are several selections - Megan, BC, TEIN, etc.**
• Oil Cooling System ~$250; will be universal and require fabricated mounting. I have mitsimoto and the install is not bad at all**
• Rebored Throttle body: from 65mm to 67mm - allows more flow (would send your TB away to a company that does this for GT)***
• GS can add a GT Throttle Body for a few more ponies.**
• 3-Angle Valve Job (by Delta Cams) - Part of Port N Polish Work****
• Welded/Re-Grinded Cams to fit a boost Profile (by Delta Cams)***
• Oversized, Coated, Stainless Steel Valves/Springs/Retainers***
• Entire Heads Cleared & Honed (part of P N P work, by Delta Cams) - $2500: whole head work package & new valve components.***
• upgrade Fuel Delivery System***
• Walbro 225 Fuel Pump OR Evo X pump (direct replacement)......$125 - $200**
• 565cc 'Pink' (Subaru) Injectors (or Blues if GS) ...~$110 per injector**
• Fuel Pressure Regulator....~$100 - $225**
• AEM F/IC 6 + Harness to advance timing and dial in fuel curve.........$1000 all parts, install w/ tune (must also have wideband o2 sensor + Air/Fuel Ratio gauge)**
• High Performance Street Tires................$750 - $900*
• Re-flash of ECU to remove speed/rev limits - done by Hackish or G'reddy device***
• Crank Shaft Upgrade - Special Note: the crank on the 4g is most likely tough enough to take anything 99% of members are going to throw at it, hence it is not in section #1. If you have the money and want to do it, when your motor is apart and being built is the time to do so. This will be expensive and most likely a sourced job as there are none market-ready that I know about. You will also need to balance the engine if you do this - shop work that will not be cheap either. Again - this is probably NOT needed for most of us.****
• Engine Balancing Work - done by a tuner shop when your re-build your engine and must be done if you install a new crank. This may actually be considered 'Must Have' on some builds, if you are doing pistons, rods, etc.****
• Need all components from section #3 below.

#3) For 275 - 350 WHP builds - ALL other suspension & various upgrades:

• Ingalls ETD "Stiffy"*
• Stiffer Bushings by Energy Suspension
• Motor Mounts (anti roll)**
• Small Central Member bushings (come w/ the motor mount kit)*
• Front Control Arm bushings**
• Rear Control Arm bushings*
• Rear Sway Bar Bushings (most aftermarket packages, like Eibach, come with these already)[/INDENT]*
• After Market Anti-Roll Bars:
• Tanabe Front Tower Bar*
• Tanabe Under-strut Bar*
• Front Sway Bar (Eibach Anti-Roll Kit)***
• Rear Sway Bar (Eibach Anti-Roll Kit)*
• Whiteline Endlink Upgrades - heavy duty and bad ass; buy the ones for the EVO X, and they will fit.*
• lowering springs / shocks (if you don't have coilovers (listed above))**
• Upgraded Brakes - Big Brake Kit from Brembo, Stop Tech, or the like**
• Slotted or Drilled Rotors**
• Grounding Kit - can be done 'homemade' style. Do this when you have modified your electronics load a lot, i.e. - added gauges, etc.*
• All items from section #4 below HIGHLY Recommended.

#4) Many smaller upgrades that will add up in the end:

• Short Shifter Kit + Aluminum or hardened shifter base bushings (these make a big difference)**
• Upgraded Under-drive Pulley (GS Only)*
• Thermoblock Intake Spacers**
• Upgraded Spark Plugs (Usually 1-step colder Iridium by NGK - some may want Pulstars if not going w/ Nitrous or FI)*
• Oil Catch Can*
• Throttlebody By-Pass Mod*
• Remove any restrictive exhaust pieces in the pipe (resonators, silencers, non-essential cats, poor quality bends, etc.)*
• Steel braided lines when and wherever possible. (oil, fuel, vacuum, brakes)*
• Water Wetter*
• Voltage stabilizer: (see next two products for a good set-up)**
• Plasma Lift Coil Enhancement by Okada Projects**
• Weapon R Ignition Equalizer Kit (for negative side of coils)**
• Octane Booster or Pure Race Gas (hard to find in some locals).*
• Highest Quality Oil Filter you can buy*
• Royal Purple products in all systems as appropriate*
• Heat wrap for exhaust pipes*
• Best clamps, couplers, hardware possible*
• weight reduction - remove seats, spare tire, jack, etc.*
• racing steering wheel**
• harness bar / roll cage (serious track/drag only)**
• Fabricated Air Scoop that aims air from the front of the car into the air filter (this would have to be "home-made")**

#5) Components / Parts Needed for Forced Induction
(Won't get to over 400 HP w/out either a Nitrous System or Forced Induction of some kind...so pick your poison.)

• IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost all major upgrades listed above will be needed to reach the maximum capacity produced by a Forced Induction System - especially the internals and cooling (if going over ~ 8 - 12 lbs), and suspension and drive train upgrades to get the power to the ground on our difficult FWD platforms.
• Supercharger Kit - Tuners' Kit by RIPP is best option at this point. This is a Vortech Blower w/ a good drive shaft and stage I, II, or III pulley w/ needed piping.*** to ****
• Turbocharger Kit - None specifically designed for the 4g as of this writing. It CAN be done if you can get a turbo manifold fabricated, and get your fuel control working with either a piggy back system (AEM F/IC 6 or 8) or a stand-alone management system.*** to ****
• Fuel Control System will CERTAINLY be needed. Re-tuned by shop recommended. Again - AEM F/IC 6 or 8 is a good option. Will most likely need to retard timing at the higher end. TUNE - Retard Timing as boost increases/goes up!***
• Upgraded Fuel Delivery REQUIRED. (Includes Pump, Injectors, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Steel Fuel Lines Recommended)***
• Boost Controller**
• Decompression Kit**
• Front Mounted Intercooloer (FMI) for anything above 10 lbs. of boost - and necessity on Turbo (due to the heat).**
• Blow-Off Valve*
• Waste-gate (sized for turbo)*
• By-Pass Valve (used mainly for superchargers)*
• Heat shield for Turbo*
• Turbo Timer**
• SECTION UNDER CONSTRUCTION....

#6) Components Needed for Nitrous Set-Up

• NOTE: As in section #5, if you are going to go larger then a 75 shot of nitrous, it will be a good idea, if not mandatory depending on high you go, to make most of the major upgrades mentioned in sections #1 - #4.
• Bottle of Nitrous (Wet Delivery - Into Fuel Line)
• Bottle of Nitrous (Dry Delivery - Mist Into Intake piping)
• TUNE - Retard Timing as Nitrous comes on at the top end!
• Nitrous Controller (various options here - arm switch, safety settings, etc.)
• Purge Package / System
• Bottle Warmer
• Remote Bottle Opener
• SECTION UNDER CONSTRUCTION........

*Final Notes: You'll need to have your engine 'balanced' if you replace the crank and double checked if you replace the rods and pistons - check for clearances, and specs from the service manual. Then once the F/IC is installed you'll need to have it tuned on a dyno to see max gains - unless you live next to BrianJ, of course.

**Again, this list will be upgraded and modified as appropriate. I was also going to try to credit each part with the member who brought it to the forum originally and made it to this list - but that was WAY to tedious. I wanted to add a side note to each briefly explaining what each does, but that also was tedious. I figured we can discuss that on the thread if anyone is interested in further information on the part/production/location and how to get it, etc. How hard it is to install, etc.

***Most of us will dream about having all this stuff on here - it's awesome, sweet, cool, intimidating, tough, drives the girls crazy, commands respect form gear heads who are shrewd with kind words and respect, etc....it's also VERY VERY VERY expensive. So most will need to plan a budget on what they want to actually spend in the end, and how fast will be fast enough for them. But that is also what the forum is here for - you can get opinions and direction for the future, and find out about new great products that can help our cars.

So anyway guys, post up corrections and additions and we'll get this list fine tuned and complete.

Here are some more EXCELLENT Threads for your reference:

Maintenance, Parts, & Engine Build Info:

• SERVICE MANUAL
• 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse Technical Information Manual
• Beginners guide to modding
• US 6G75 SOHC 3.8L MIVEC specs
• RPW 6G75 Camshafts - information and Technical Data
• Proper Fuel Injectors
• Parts Catalog (OEM)
• Mitsubishi 380 - 6G75 SOHC 24v Vehicle Performance Modification Guide
• Changing Spark Plugs
• How To: Valve Check & Adjustment
• Alternative for Roll Stops / Motor Mounts
• How To: Underdrive Pulley Install (GS)
• NKG 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs
• How To: Oil Catch Can Install
• http://club4g.org/board/tuning-elect...-question.html
• Auto City Imports : Sport Compact Auto & Import Performance Superstore
• Road Race Engineering's 4G Eclipse Parts and Performance
• JMAutoracing.com
• http://heartlessdesigns.storenvy.com/

Tuning & Electronics:

• ECU Wiring Diagram
• Some AEM FI/C vids.. this might help
• HOW TO: F/I C Basics
• F/I C MAPs: 6G75 NA
• FINALLY, Ignition advance with the FIC revealed!!!
• TLC Light Troubleshooting Thread
• How To: Install Load Resistors to LED Tail Lights (To get rid off TCL OFF light)
• How To: Switch Out / Upgrade the Back-Up Light
• Grounding Kit / Aux. Grounding Mod

Intake & Exhaust Info:

• SRI vs CAI - By the numbers
• How-To: Long Tube Header Install on GT (***Look about 1/2 way down page #2 of the thread for the 'how-to' portion)
• GS Header Install
• TECH: Exhaust System FAQs
• How To: Throttle Body By-Pass Tutorial
• O2 Sensors/Post Cat/RRE Header
• My new Outlaw Intake Spacers
• How To:Cold Air Intake (CAI) Install
• AEM FIC, Open Exhaust & Rear o2 Sensors OBD2 Codes (fix)
• o2 Sensor Spacers' Option "L-Shape"

Suspension Info:

• Energy Suspension Bushings And Motor Mounts
• HOW TO: Eibach Pro Kit Spring - Install
• Warning! Read Before Purchase of Front Anti-Sway Bar
• HOW TO: ES Trailing Arm (Rear Lower Control Arm) Insert - Install
• MR Coilover Install Trick
• Understanding Wheel Offset & Rim Position on the Hub
• How To: Front brake rotor and pad swap
• HOW TO: Brembo Caliper Breakdown
• HOW TO: Progress 24mm Sway Bar - Install

Clutch & Drivetrain Info:

• How To: Changing Out OEM Clutch (No Pics)
• Forum FYI: Pictures of Stock Differential vs. Quaife Pozzy
• How To: Short Shifter Install

Nitrous Info:

• Nirtrous Kit Install
• Nitrous Kit Install #2 (Wet Kit)

Forced Induction Rides:

• Turbo Build - Pics & How To Sections...Time to start!
• Supercharged GT w/ Many Modifications - Tons of Info on various upgrades

*In this pic you can see a forged piston at the top, a forged h-beam rod w/ APR fasteners, as well as 2 packages of bearings on either side. Will allow for much more HP to be produced and held by the 6G75 engine.

[JpRyo532]

Correct me if im wrong but using fic as n/a you would want to advance timing, which can only be done with brianj's harness (as far as i know) and going turbo/super you would require to retard timing (dont need the harness to do that but it still helps since its plug and play).

[joeyb]

^I don't know if you can do BOTH (retard and advance) w/ BrianJ's harness w/out tuning it back and forth by hand, etc.
now, technically if you had another harness that worked the same way and had the AEM software you can do it. (BrianJ please set us straight)
Yes, in an FI or nitrous application you'll want to retard the timing at the appropriate time. the F/IC can do this as well.
My personal opinion is that if you buy the F/IC, you want the harness as well. The first thing the instructions from AEM tell you is something to the effect of: "Installment is made much easier with the use of a pre-made harness, usually available for each model from various vendors." for the 4G - it is big brianJ. Having the harness saves you I don't know how much pain, and I never want to find out.

====================================

so to make it clear (thanks to Jeep)
you would want to ADVANCE your timing in an all motor set up.
you would want to RETARD your timing at the top end on a FI or nitrous vehicle.

====================================

[JpRyo532]

Well you could a fab a harness dedicated to work with the fic and timing but i just said brianj's only because i haven't heard of anything else. Here (pr) we have a few 4g with aem running without brianj's harness but they are gonna end up buying it so they can also work with the advamce timing. Hackish should come to pr!

[dejectedangle]

Joe man add the meth injection for a deff need #1#2 for future FI.... That's how my motor failed idk if this counts I'm just trying to help

[Elemenohpee]

Joey holy hell massive wall of txt ftw, thanks for posting this it's a big help for ms or anyone else looking to push the limits of F/I without damaging anything internal, the engine can be beat the piss out of with shit like this. I don't really need to say much more you already know thanks again man.

[muscles]

Wow. I was just thinking about how cool it would be to actually have a list as to what we really need to build the engine correctly

[JoeyC]

thanks joe that answerd my question and then some so i will put a order together for all parts then, is there anything as far as motor rebuild that we cant get yet t ohave a fully rebuilt motor?

[Christatic]

Ok, I have two questions, does anyone make motor mount upgrades for the GS? And does anyone know if the stiffy will fit the GS without have custom brackets made?

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by dejectedangle

Joe man add the meth injection for a deff need #1#2 for future FI.... That's how my motor failed idk if this counts I'm just trying to help

Originally Posted by Elemenohpee

Joey holy hell massive wall of txt ftw, thanks for posting this it's a big help for ms or anyone else looking to push the limits of F/I without damaging anything internal, the engine can be beat the piss out of with shit like this. I don't really need to say much more you already know thanks again man.

Ok good idea guys - I'll try to add in a "#5) Looking to FI" section after the last part. This was originally an all motor build thread, but I think there would be value in putting in FI components. I'll try to get that done today - thanks fellas!

Originally Posted by JOECRUZ-85

thanks joe that answerd my question and then some so i will put a order together for all parts then, is there anything as far as motor rebuild that we cant get yet t ohave a fully rebuilt motor?

Jojo, nope - there is NOTHING on this list that we cannot acquire! it's all out there if you want it and can afford it. one or two things (like the oil cooling unit) may require some custom mounting work, but not too hard if you are comfortable working on cars.

Originally Posted by Christatic

Ok, I have two questions, does anyone make motor mount upgrades for the GS? And does anyone know if the stiffy will fit the GS without have custom brackets made?

sorry Chris I don't know for sure - if I am not mistaken the motor mount kit for the GS will work, but I'll doublecheck the next time I see my boy Tanner who drives one. Surely someone else on here (darkside?) can answer this and the next question.
I don't know about the stiffy either - let me look at that sale page....hmmm...looking at this page it doesn't seem so....

but again, one of the smart GS guys should know....

[dejectedangle]

Ok ya that's why I was not sure!!!!! Good thread like if only this was up last year.

[Karnak]

Awesome thread idea Joey, Nice work.

Just one addition, I might have missed it in there, but I don't see a requirement in "Must have" or "highly recommended" for CAI or any higher capacity than stock air intake for a Full N/A motor which I think would normally apply unless I'm mistaken.

Great Work Joey, keep it up, that'll be my goto page for my future mods I'm sure...

[joeyb]

^thanks man! I do appreciate the compliments and your good ideas - got them in there and added 2 more sections. I'll need to flush those out a bit, so you guys keep coming with stuff I've missed and we'll make this bitch as complete as possible.

[360jeepboy]

Just an FYI. Yes you can advance the timing with Brians harness. He actually has a thread about how to do it.

Also, you didn't say anything about what kind of compression ratio you would be running, as that is a big thing to a NA build guy.

[joeyb]

^oh yeah, right - that is poor wording on my part. I was trying to say "I don't know if it can do both at the same time. (adv. & retard) Thanks for pointing that out, man. Let me try to fix that. I certainly should have made it more clear. I'll give the link on how to do it, as well. Thanks man.

[HI-C0811]

Badass just what i needed

[stangcobra]

Amazing thread man, thanks a ton

[Christatic]

Originally Posted by joeyb

Sorry Chris I don't know for sure - if I am not mistaken the motor mount kit for the GS will work, but I'll doublecheck the next time I see my boy Tanner who drives one. Surely someone else on here (darkside?) can answer this and the next question.
I don't know about the stiffy either - let me look at that sale page....hmmm...looking at this page it doesn't seem so....

but again, one of the smart GS guys should know....

Thanks Joey a lot of awesome info, I'll do some more searching about the motor mounts to see what I can find.

[Karnak]

Not sure in how much detail you wanna go, but since we're talking head work and Base block work figured I could add another suggestion.

Gasket kits can also raise some nice prices when rebuilding or tearing down an engine etc. if you feel like adding those details further, unless you thought about those and included those in another line groupe tc, I would suggest either put it in there as a separate item on its own for every thing we wanna add up if you really wanna go in details, or another option would be to make a "misc" line for each sections for all those little tiny bits we always forget and put a general "overhead" price total for those in the build. For example, you can easily say 500$ overhead for engine work, 300$ for suspension work, etc. this misc line could easily include the fab work needed for some other sections (aka F/I, customs exhaust, etc) etc.

[joeyb]

^good call Karnak, I put the 'upgraded gasket kit' in MUST have b/c if you are rebuilding yoiur motor you definitely want to put in the best gaskets you can. You can buy whole packages that have all included.

2007 MITSUBISHI GALANT RALLIART Cylinder Head Gasket

as far as the 'base block work' what are we talking about specifically? what would they do on that job? if this is something you'd do w/ the engine torn down then we should list it in highly recommended or section #1 I think.

[joeyb]

Billy, stang, glad to help fellas. We'll try to keep adding info as appropriate to the thread and eventually it should have everything needed to meet any desired performance level.

[Karnak]

Originally Posted by joeyb

^good call Karnak, I put the 'upgraded gasket kit' in MUST have b/c if you are rebuilding yoiur motor you definitely want to put in the best gaskets you can. You can buy whole packages that have all included.

2007 MITSUBISHI GALANT RALLIART Cylinder Head Gasket

as far as the 'base block work' what are we talking about specifically? what would they do on that job? if this is something you'd do w/ the engine torn down then we should list it in highly recommended or section #1 I think.

I guess it depends what each one is doing. If your talking taking the crank out for example you might as well change the Crank oil seals, Oil Pan gasket. It really depends what you do on the block and if you remove the Crank or if you don't remove to crank, you don't need to touch the seals etc. Those are a lot less expensive than head gasket stuff though, you might just wanna throw them into the gasket pricing etc.

Did we include any type of Balancing? and More specificaly, Do we need any? I'm not fully familiar with the Eclipse engine yet and havn't researched this yet, but maybe balancing is required. Perhaps someone can further comment and provide an insight into Balancing for 6G75 engines?

Just also thought, aftermarket oil pump, possibly high volume or is ours sufficient?

[MyVEC]

Wow thanks joey this list is great ! Someday i'd like to go all motor, but now i know just how much drug money i need to start saving

P.S. congrats on car of the month you totally deserve it

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by Karnak

I guess it depends what each one is doing. If your talking taking the crank out for example you might as well change the Crank oil seals, Oil Pan gasket. It really depends what you do on the block and if you remove the Crank or if you don't remove to crank, you don't need to touch the seals etc. Those are a lot less expensive than head gasket stuff though, you might just wanna throw them into the gasket pricing etc.

Did we include any type of Balancing? and More specificaly, Do we need any? I'm not fully familiar with the Eclipse engine yet and havn't researched this yet, but maybe balancing is required. Perhaps someone can further comment and provide an insight into Balancing for 6G75 engines?

Just also thought, aftermarket oil pump, possibly high volume or is ours sufficient?

Ok good call - I'll add crank-shaft upgrade and balancing for that, but note that our car has a very tough crank that probably doesn't need to be replaced unless you are just wanting to do everything in there. I'd say the crank is the LAST thing you'd want to for the 4g, but if your motor is apart and you have the $$, why not?

thanks man good additions to our list.

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by MyVEC

Wow thanks joey this list is great ! Someday i'd like to go all motor, but now i know just how much drug money i need to start saving

P.S. congrats on car of the month you totally deserve it

sure thing man. I'm glad this thread has gotten a warm reception, and a lot of guys are adding in information to make it that much better - which is what a forum is all about, I'd say.

thanks for the congrats on COTM, also. I do appreciate it, my friend.

[JpRyo532]

Originally Posted by joeyb

[*]Re-flash of ECU to remove speed/rev limits - done by Hackish or G'reddy device

Has anyone tried this greddy device?

[joeyb]

Not that I know of...we need someone to let us know. It's G'reddy so I'm sure it's a good product and probably works on Hondas and other cars, but will it work on ours is another question...

[Christatic]

Ok so I did a little searching and for all the GS owners that didn't know, the stiffy will fit the GS. Stiffy Etd, Mitsubishi Eclipse - Ingalls 93037
And Summit Racing has the best prices that I have seen

[MitEclipse07]

Originally Posted by Christatic

Ok so I did a little searching and for all the GS owners that didn't know, the stiffy will fit the GS. Stiffy Etd, Mitsubishi Eclipse - Ingalls 93037
And Summit Racing has the best prices that I have seen

The Stiffy will not fit for the GS unless a custom bracket is made for it.

[JoeyC]

i sae u put octane booster -is this the stuff u can find at a autozone thts adds into gas-will this hurt your car at all if i add it each time i race?

[dejectedangle]

Put some of this shit in your gas tank (Xylene) there is a octane boost

[bullet06]

the octane booster will help with knock but you will not gain any power. maybe 1hp.

[TwilsonD7]

That list is the majority of it. When rebuilding a you'll need valve seats, every gasket(not just head gaskets), nuts, bolts, hoses, connectors, clamps, couplers, and the list goes on for ever. Get your main parts above prices out, add $500 in miscellaneous stuff and 1000s in labor. Theres no such thing as a full list. The list keeps going until you're done...just letting you all know. Being in the middle of my third build, you'll spend twice of what you budget.

[dejectedangle]

Get sponsored lol..... To bad our cars are not cool enough

[Isamu]

Originally Posted by TwilsonD7

That list is the majority of it. When rebuilding a you'll need valve seats, every gasket(not just head gaskets), nuts, bolts, hoses, connectors, clamps, couplers, and the list goes on for ever. Get your main parts above prices out, add $500 in miscellaneous stuff and 1000s in labor. Theres no such thing as a full list. The list keeps going until you're done...just letting you all know. Being in the middle of my third build, you'll spend twice of what you budget.

that's why this list exists, to help people, prevent them from paying for shit that's not needed.. maybe give direction, so they don't over spead..

the biggest thing I can offer is.. do it right the first time.

also, maybe Joey, you can hot link to the sites where you can buy the stuff.. like if you click the price, it takes you to the site/part

[Isamu]

The title should read Upgrades needed for a fully build Eclipse.... because you have strayed away from the "motor" component.. you don't NEED suspension mods for your motor to be built..


#3) ALL other suspension & various upgrades: (should be Suspension/chasis bracing)

shocks and springs/coilovers
roll cage




also, seats are a misc upgrade... less weight, more support.. also, a REAL harness bar, and harnesses. NOT just for looks. steering wheel upgrades..

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by TwilsonD7

That list is the majority of it. When rebuilding a you'll need valve seats, every gasket(not just head gaskets), nuts, bolts, hoses, connectors, clamps, couplers, and the list goes on for ever. Get your main parts above prices out, add $500 in miscellaneous stuff and 1000s in labor. Theres no such thing as a full list. The list keeps going until you're done...just letting you all know. Being in the middle of my third build, you'll spend twice of what you budget.

I put Gasket Package...I'll try to work in "best couplers, clamps, hardware possible" somewhere....hmmmm

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by Isamu

The title should read Upgrades needed for a fully build Eclipse.... because you have strayed away from the "motor" component.. you don't NEED suspension mods for your motor to be built..


#3) ALL other suspension & various upgrades: (should be Suspension/chasis bracing)

shocks and springs/coilovers
roll cage




also, seats are a misc upgrade... less weight, more support.. also, a REAL harness bar, and harnesses. NOT just for looks. steering wheel upgrades..

ok cool man thanks. got those in there. I'll fix the title.

yeah, got away from the all-motor thing b/c guys kept asking about FI components...so I added those, and well, you see where it went from there.

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THIS LIST.

[joeyb]

Originally Posted by Isamu

..........

also, maybe Joey, you can hot link to the sites where you can buy the stuff.. like if you click the price, it takes you to the site/part

ok man - that will be an effort - I will work on it next time I get a little block of time....I am in NY next week and working nightshifts - if nothing else I'll try to get it done then. good idea.

[HAHA NO]

For the most part wouldn't be easier to buy a used complete engine and rebuild it to these parts. Cause basically you have to tear out the original engine. anyways.